SC71LT1

Someone recently recommended to me that I use a Lucas Oil additive to protect my older engine (71). I don't have any problems with the motor right now but it sounds as though the right additive would be a good idea for added protection. I'd appreciate any opinions or experiences with oil additives.

LAvetteman

I have heard horrible things about Slick 50 and the like in new engines. The older an engine is the less I would worry about it,(nuttin to lose mentality) just be prepared to yank it if she goes.


Please register your 71 at: http://www.71corvette.com


[Modified by LAvetteman, 4:02 PM 7/10/2003]

zwede

I would say a very strong NO to any additives with one exception: If you have a stuck lifter, a bottle of marvel mystery oil is great at freeing it. Had this on my 83 Caddy and MMO fixed it right up.

BB68Vett

I had always heard nothing with Teflon in it. I can't speak to Lucas. I have seen it, it just looks like it is really thick oil that is added to your regular engine oil to thicken it up and increase viscosity. Of course, I could be wrong, there be other additives.

Fevre

Do a search on Mountainmotor, he seems to know his sh it when it comes to oil and additives. From my memory, which ain't what is used to be, he recomended a stuff called Senergy. GDH is/was running it.

boredsoIstrokedit

A vote here for marvel mystery oil. In the gas and in the oil. Old fud I had really did run smoother after that. Put it in my oil every time I change it. Have also used a can of that thick justice bros. or whatever. My dad had a main bearing going and we were pulling the boat home from a fishing trip (400 mi). When the bearing started to go, we lost about 15mph. 60-65 was all she had. We made it home, you decide if it was from the treatment or not. I certainly wouldn't put it into a good running engine, though. Not worth the risk to me.

PS, synthetic oil would be a better thing IMO. Watch out though if the motor is old:cheers:


[Modified by boredsoIstrokedit, 4:36 PM 7/10/2003]

71coupe

GM E.O.S. (engine oil supplement)
I use it for break in after engine rebuilds for first 3000 miles.

Corey_68

I am a FIRM believer in Lucas Oil. I had a little smoke upon start up on my daily driver (valve seals) and I substitue one quart of Lucas for 1 qt of oil and it no longer smokes. After 1K miles I'll start useing it in the BB. :yesnod:


[Modified by Corey 68, 5:17 PM 7/10/2003]

PROSOUTH

After totaling my Patrol car a couple of years ago I had to use the pool car. It had 200,000 miles on it and used a quart of oil every 1000 miles when I got it.

I used a quart of the LUCAS Oil Additive intead of one of the regular Havoline quarts and it went from using one quart thousand to one quart at 3500 miles between changes at 5000 miles. I had to drive that car for another 48K and it still only used 1 qt every 3500 miles when the department issued me a new car.

This Crown Vic went from using 1 qt per 1000 to 1 qt per 3500 by adding the LUCAS oil additive. I have never believed in Snake Oil either, but the LUCAS works. jim :yesnod:

mountainmotor

The Lucas Oil Additive is just a bright stock that is around a ISO 150 grade " aproximatley a 140 wt oil equivalent ". Bright stocks have no additional barrier additives such as zinc ,oil soluable moly ect. They are made from residual stocks by solvent extraction ,propane de-asphalting or catalytic dewaxing.

Amsoil used this in formulation in the past to thicken up the viscosity of their pure synthetic ;) oils. When Havoline made the SJ 5/40 synthetic they also used it albeit in small amounts to increase the vi of the light 4 cst PAO's blended into the formulation. This oil is no longer available.

Adding this brightstock is a good way to screw up the balanced additive package of the oil formulation and will knock the TBN of the oil down early into the interval and alter start-up performance. If one has a oil burner that he plans on rebuilding later it would be best IMO to use a heavier oil like a HD Diesel 15/40 . The viscosity at 40c is much heavier than a PCMO and will help slow down the burn rate and still protect the motor.Also to an extent reduce leakage.

Synergyn does make a thin vi high alkali additive that will raise the TBN of the oil and reduce the levels of sulfuric acids and help as a friction modifier and added to a (good) dino oil one can run a oil interval to possibly 7500 miles or so under the right conditions. It has been around for about 14 years and was a usefull tool before the API SL designation came about and formulations began using doses of magnesium and other better calcium sulphonates and borate esters and advanced VII improvers used in the better group II and III oils used to pass the sequence IIIE test.

Imo I would only use the Synergyn or the Valvoline Synpower additive in a motor and only then under circumstances demanding them during the coarse of a drain interval,,not speaking of a camshaft break-in additive here because thats a different topic.

I once saw a oil salesman " think he drove a Pink Cadillac :D" using a Timken Machine to demonstrate the oil he was trying to sell and to for lack of better discredit other oils. These machines are easily manipulated in terms of how one can load them up or shock the timken bearing producing either desired results or undesirable,guess it depends on what your selling :D,anyway I asked if I could try, of course the answer was NO! He He.





[Modified by mountainmotor, 8:04 AM 7/11/2003]

Sigforty

Lucas products are the only additived I will add to oil. Their oil stabilizer works great. I used the stuff to keep my 89 blazer going. It worked great I ended up getting over 200,000 miles out of the blazer before the engine gave out. I also hear Lucas power steering additive does wonders for leaking systems.

69schemers

:iagree: GM E.O.S. I work with GM NASCAR Winston Cup teams and they swear by it. It helps them with the break-in on a flat tappet cam. I have heard that that with out it, they scuff one out of every three cams in break in. They also run it on race day.

JB

I don't know a damn thing about it, but what I'm hearing FOR the Lucas additive is anecdotal hearsay, and what I'm hearing AGAINST it (from mountainmotor) are some very specific, well informed facts about the composition and physical properties of the stuff. Personally, I'm gonna leave it alone.

Though I do put Marvel Mystery Oil in my gas, since I'm running a mix of 93octane and blue aviation fuel.

JB

Tominator

Why are you putting oil in your gas, does it have something to do with airplane fuel?

mapman

Oil Additives: Ya or Nay: Nay

JB

Yes. Avgas doesn't have the same additives that automotive fuel does.

JB

vette_c5c6

A former neighbor of mine was a petrol chemical engineer and he said quote “ Never Never add anything to your engine oil” He also added you will not believe how complex and balanced the formulations are in the oil we buy. The oil is designed to perform Wright up to the second you drain it. The choice is yours

Jvette73

no additives..just run good oil. Mobil1 synth 10w/30 can provide optimun protection. It will practically cease the wear at what ever point its at now.

WESCH

Hi

OK, stupid question :
I run Dino oil right now. If I switch over to MOBIL 1 syntetic , do I need to do a kind of flushing ?
Also if I don't like it for whatever reason, can I switch back to Dino oil ?

Thanks . Gunther :seeya

Jvette73

If your engine is fairly clean I see no real need to flush before switching over to synth. Just make sure to warm up the engine before draining the oil to help it all drain out better. Not eachchange but every now and then if I catch the oil level a qt low before a change for instance, will ad a qt of auto trans fluid like dexron to the engine crankcase and run it gentaly around town for a day or so then drain. The detergents and whatnot in the trans fluid can help fluch out sludge. And yes you can change back if you want. dont know why you would since the synth is so much better. I mean way better.