Brakes (or the Lack of)
07-09-2003, 07:13 PM
#1
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Brakes (or the Lack of)
I have read the extensive number of posts on brakes on the C3s. I have the same problems with air getting into the system. The question is how to stop it? I just purchased the 1976 L82 and it is very modified and I know very little about the vette. How do I identify the calipers that are on it now? I was told that the 1976 Vette has 2 bleed screws on the rear and 1 in the front, mine has 3 on the rear and 1 on the front.
That said, What is the best braking system for this car and where do I purchase it? I only want to do it once.
Thanks in advance for the help!
That said, What is the best braking system for this car and where do I purchase it? I only want to do it once.
Thanks in advance for the help!
07-09-2003, 07:18 PM
#2
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Re: Brakes (stabb)
I really cant help you with your brakes, but let me be the 1st to welcome you to the Forum!. I am sure that someone will be along shortly to help you with your problem..... :cheers:
07-09-2003, 07:57 PM
#3
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Re: Brakes (stabb)
Well if you are getting air into the system, thats not really a good sign.
3 on the rear sounds a bit strange to me, not that I know much about them though.
I had ooodles of problems with my brakes. I had leaking caliper seals, and trying to get all the air out was a real nightmare.
If you are trying to bleed the system I'd say definatly get hold of a pressure bleeder. We built one and plugged the compressed air into it and just pumped heaps of oil through the system until no traces of any air.
Also if you are playing around with the brakes, it might be a good idea to buy new hoses as well.
The problem we were finding is that with the master cylinder only being relativly small compared to the size of the caliper plungers (remembering that there is 16 plungers working all around), if there is any movement in the hoses then there is less pressure being applied to the plungers.
I don't know lots and I am sure there are others on this site that know heaps more than me, but that was just my past experience.
3 on the rear sounds a bit strange to me, not that I know much about them though.
I had ooodles of problems with my brakes. I had leaking caliper seals, and trying to get all the air out was a real nightmare.
If you are trying to bleed the system I'd say definatly get hold of a pressure bleeder. We built one and plugged the compressed air into it and just pumped heaps of oil through the system until no traces of any air.
Also if you are playing around with the brakes, it might be a good idea to buy new hoses as well.
The problem we were finding is that with the master cylinder only being relativly small compared to the size of the caliper plungers (remembering that there is 16 plungers working all around), if there is any movement in the hoses then there is less pressure being applied to the plungers.
I don't know lots and I am sure there are others on this site that know heaps more than me, but that was just my past experience.
07-09-2003, 08:19 PM
#4
Re: Brakes (stabb)
This here link might be of some interest to ya -
http://www.corvettefaq.com/listing.asp?group=2
http://www.corvettefaq.com/listing.asp?group=2
07-09-2003, 09:30 PM
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Re: Brakes (stabb)
That said, What is the best braking system for this car and where do I purchase it? I only want to do it once.
The best thing you can do for the vet to increase dramatically the braking power is install a hydraboost. I am not pushing a company just the system. It can be bought cheaply from the wreckers or you can buy the kit.
The lip seals on your brake pistons are designed to only move .010. Any more and they start pumping air. If your rear wheel bearings have play and .001-.008 is the specs and the rotor's are up to .005 still within specs and you are on the high side of both you have exceeded the .010 max runout and you have problems. If the bearings are old I would bet they are not even near specs plus the rotors unless shimmed are probably out too.
On the vet you have to do everything. Good stainless sleeved calipers, stainless flex lines opional but good, good bearings front and rear set to about .001 clearance and dial indicate the rotors and try to bring them down to .001-.003 range. The hydraboost is just icing.
Done properly the vet brakes are very good and trouble free.
[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 8:34 PM 7/9/2003]
The best thing you can do for the vet to increase dramatically the braking power is install a hydraboost. I am not pushing a company just the system. It can be bought cheaply from the wreckers or you can buy the kit.
The lip seals on your brake pistons are designed to only move .010. Any more and they start pumping air. If your rear wheel bearings have play and .001-.008 is the specs and the rotor's are up to .005 still within specs and you are on the high side of both you have exceeded the .010 max runout and you have problems. If the bearings are old I would bet they are not even near specs plus the rotors unless shimmed are probably out too.
On the vet you have to do everything. Good stainless sleeved calipers, stainless flex lines opional but good, good bearings front and rear set to about .001 clearance and dial indicate the rotors and try to bring them down to .001-.003 range. The hydraboost is just icing.
Done properly the vet brakes are very good and trouble free.
[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 8:34 PM 7/9/2003]
07-09-2003, 09:58 PM
#6
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Re: Brakes (norvalwilhelm)
Sorry to be so dumb, please explain rotor runout and how to check and correct it. Also, hydraboost? what is it and where can I get it.
07-09-2003, 10:02 PM
#7
Race Director
Re: Brakes (stabb)
http://www.hydroboost.com/
I installed this on my manual brake car and it was a huge difference.
Rotor runout is measured with a dial indicator. I mounted mine on the brake caliper and put the dial indicator on the surface that the pad runs on. Spin the rotor and you should see very little if any variation. If you have more than .005 chances are you are pumping air intop teh system and you will lose the pedal. Mine are set at .002 and they have been rock hard for 3 years now.
[Modified by Gordonm, 10:05 PM 7/9/2003]
I installed this on my manual brake car and it was a huge difference.
Rotor runout is measured with a dial indicator. I mounted mine on the brake caliper and put the dial indicator on the surface that the pad runs on. Spin the rotor and you should see very little if any variation. If you have more than .005 chances are you are pumping air intop teh system and you will lose the pedal. Mine are set at .002 and they have been rock hard for 3 years now.
[Modified by Gordonm, 10:05 PM 7/9/2003]