Trailing Arm Removal S#$%!
07-09-2003, 04:02 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Trailing Arm Removal S#$%!
Now I know what everyone else means when describing trailing arm removal!! I'm down to the pivot bolt on each side and what a pain! I've gone thru PB Blaster, Knocker Loose and some other penetrating lube that I can't remember the name of. It's not budging one bit!!! I got another can of PB Blaster.......I'll Keep ya posted!!
:cuss :banghead:
:cuss :banghead:
07-09-2003, 04:08 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (l2vette)
Time for that all purpose exercise machine the Saws All. :yesnod: Even on the bench there was no way the stubs of the bolt were comming out of the bushing.
07-09-2003, 04:14 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (l2vette)
Take a look at this post. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=504871
I did mine back in March and it was EAZY.. OK, once I got the right blade it became easy... Forget the PB Blaster.. Takes TOO long if it ever does work and you can damage your car if you miss while trying to drive out the bolt..
Sawzall is the way to go BUT with the right blade.
I did mine back in March and it was EAZY.. OK, once I got the right blade it became easy... Forget the PB Blaster.. Takes TOO long if it ever does work and you can damage your car if you miss while trying to drive out the bolt..
Sawzall is the way to go BUT with the right blade.
07-09-2003, 04:19 PM
#5
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2002
Location: Allen TX
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Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (l2vette)
Time to get the sure kill, fire up the Sawzall. When you make your cut, make sure NOT to cut into the rubber bushings. The rubber gums up the blade and reduces the cutting action of the blade. Cut through the shims and and bolt, should be real quick and require only a couple blades (at most).
For reference, my trailing arm bolts had rusted to the inner bushing sleeve, there was no way any penetrating oil would get inside. The sawzall was the only answer.
John
For reference, my trailing arm bolts had rusted to the inner bushing sleeve, there was no way any penetrating oil would get inside. The sawzall was the only answer.
John
07-09-2003, 04:58 PM
#6
Safety Car
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (John W)
Sawzall here too :thumbs:
Took about 3 hours of screwing around on the first one, then I figured out a "system" and got the second one out in less than 1 hour.
Lots of beer helps too :cheers:
Took about 3 hours of screwing around on the first one, then I figured out a "system" and got the second one out in less than 1 hour.
Lots of beer helps too :cheers:
07-10-2003, 09:27 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%!
What I found out that really helped me was removing the shims instead of trying to cut through them. They were rusted in there but the pin that holds the one side came out pretty easy. Useing a screwdriver and a hammer :smash: I was able to tap the shims up and down a few times then I picked just one shim and did the same for just that one. When I got it seperated enough from the other shims the rear hole was exposed. Used a screwdriver in that hole for leverage and slid out that one shim.. Once you get one shim out the others just fell out.. Now you can see the bolt that you need to cut. With the shims removed I was able to slid the whole unit in far enough to have the head of the bolt stick out away from the bracket. It's was a happy feeling when the t-arm came out..
[Modified by Koz, 9:29 AM 7/10/2003]
[Modified by Koz, 9:29 AM 7/10/2003]
07-10-2003, 10:59 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (Koz)
Thanks for tip....................I'm off to Home Depot!!!!
I will let ya know how thngs work out.
I will let ya know how thngs work out.
Take a look at this post. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=504871
I did mine back in March and it was EAZY.. OK, once I got the right blade it became easy... Forget the PB Blaster.. Takes TOO long if it ever does work and you can damage your car if you miss while trying to drive out the bolt..
Sawzall is the way to go BUT with the right blade.
I did mine back in March and it was EAZY.. OK, once I got the right blade it became easy... Forget the PB Blaster.. Takes TOO long if it ever does work and you can damage your car if you miss while trying to drive out the bolt..
Sawzall is the way to go BUT with the right blade.
07-10-2003, 12:12 PM
#9
Instructor
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Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (adamdinat)
Time for that all purpose exercise machine the Saws All. :yesnod: Even on the bench there was no way the stubs of the bolt were comming out of the bushing.
The bolts rust inside the sleeve of the bushing, there is no way to get them out in one piece. Saws All will save you a lot of time. :yesnod: :yesnod:
07-10-2003, 07:01 PM
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Canberra AUSTRALIA
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: Trailing Arm Removal S#$%! (l2vette)
I borrowed an electric saw (sawsall I guess) from a work mate. Bought four blades from Home Depot. First one took two cuts as the bolt was siezed in the bushing.
Heres my tips:
1. PB Blast first - you may get lucky.
2. Pull out all the shims. Use brute force if neccessary as your probably going to pain there anyway.
3. Cut as close as possible without messing with the bushing. As someone else said, the rubber screws up the blade. Also make sure the end of the balde is not too close to the frame as it bends the blades easily :yesnod:
4. Once you cut the outside off see if the T-Arm will move on the bolt towards the outside.
5. If you get lucky it will move enough to start getting the remains of the bolt out. I got lucky on one side. If not then flash up the saw again. Make sure you have someone to support the T-arm as it will have the weight of the caliper on it. Also make sure the brake line is disconnected and ties out of the way. If you do discoonect it then plug/tape up the line so you don't get metal filings in it.
6. Move to other side. This will take about 15 minutes as you are now a guru.
The demolition blades should cut through the bolt in about 15 seconds. If not change blades. I used 3 blades and when they are new they cut steel like butter. Buy extras just in case you bend them. No fun running to the hardware store midway through.
When you put it back together use some nether sieze on the T-arm bolts so you don't have the problem again.
Good Luck
stingry
:steering:
Heres my tips:
1. PB Blast first - you may get lucky.
2. Pull out all the shims. Use brute force if neccessary as your probably going to pain there anyway.
3. Cut as close as possible without messing with the bushing. As someone else said, the rubber screws up the blade. Also make sure the end of the balde is not too close to the frame as it bends the blades easily :yesnod:
4. Once you cut the outside off see if the T-Arm will move on the bolt towards the outside.
5. If you get lucky it will move enough to start getting the remains of the bolt out. I got lucky on one side. If not then flash up the saw again. Make sure you have someone to support the T-arm as it will have the weight of the caliper on it. Also make sure the brake line is disconnected and ties out of the way. If you do discoonect it then plug/tape up the line so you don't get metal filings in it.
6. Move to other side. This will take about 15 minutes as you are now a guru.
The demolition blades should cut through the bolt in about 15 seconds. If not change blades. I used 3 blades and when they are new they cut steel like butter. Buy extras just in case you bend them. No fun running to the hardware store midway through.
When you put it back together use some nether sieze on the T-arm bolts so you don't have the problem again.
Good Luck
stingry
:steering:
