dewayne4

On a scale of 1-10, 1 being easy as pumping gas - 10 being rebuilding the tranny. How hard is it to replace the u-joints on the half shafts? :banghead: I have a 79. I have already replaced the drive shafts joints, but it is still makes a noise that sounds like it is coming from the side shafts. Is it the joints or maybe a bearing?

norvalwilhelm

To me replacing U joints is easy. I do not like pressing them in or out. If you use a press the flange on the outer U joint is very fragile and will bend if excess force is used . I have a block that I bolted the flange to the first time I did one.
Now I use a torch to cut the X out of the ujoint then take a air chissel and walk the old caps off. I then clean the cups with a small flapper wheel, deburr with a file, lubricate, clean the groove and put the half shaft in the vise and using a small brass hammer walk the new joint into place.'
To me if you press the new joint on with too much force you are deforming the cap and it is no longer round and will lead a short life.
Most of my u joints are almost finger tight when installed.

dewayne4

OK, so on a scale of 1-10, what would you say?

Clink69

Norval,

what is the proper TQ on the u clamps for the Dirve shaft??

GTR1999

I did a set of 1/2 shafts yesterday using the torch method for the first time. I usually use a press and backing plate. They weren't hard to remove this way but I haven't installed the spicers yet. I wash them then use POR15 metal ready, POR15 black, then top coat with cast blast so it adds time to the job. They look pretty good though when I'm done. I use a vise to start them then seat them in the press.
If you have a press or torch not bad but if you try them in just a vise you may have a hard time.
Good luck,
Gary

tshort

I think it kindof depends on the condition of your current u-joints. I gave up with mine and didn't want to warp/break/twist anything so I ended up taking them to a driveshaft shop and they installed and balanced them for me. If this tells you anything, I just did a complete engine swap and I would rate the swap easier than correctly replacing u-joints. Sure, you might be able to get it done but it's easy to mess the half shafts up. At least that was my experience.

gary6696

:iagree:

with tshsort.

After hassling with them a couple days, I let my local driveshaft man install them.
$10 apiece.

jerryp58

I think they're a total PITB; probably an 8 (the driveshaft was probably a 2).

But, I didn't torch mine out, I used a drift pin and hammer :banghead:

What a pain. Even with generous doses of penetrating fluid, the caps were still stuck pretty bad.

I finally got it done, but it was a lot of work.

Taking the halfshafts out is not bad at all. If you can find a shop that you trust & will do the job for a reasonable price, I'd go that way (I will go that way if there's a next time for me).

Good Luck.

OH, if you've got noise back there and you've never, or not recently, changed the differential fluid (& posi additive), I'd do that first. It can't hurt, and it may save you some grief. :yesnod:


[Modified by jerryp58, 6:51 AM 7/7/2003]

Paul Borowski

:iagree: :iagree: :iagree: I'd rather do u-joints this way than routing plug wires on these cars :lolg:

mrvette

I have pounded in and out with sockets as punches, some pretty nasty 1/2 shafts, and yeh, it's work, but I"v never broken anything....just takes a solid hammer...I use a 3 lbs hand sledge...impact sockets, and a 6" bench vice....

I take plumbers polishing tape...like they clean copper pipe with before soldering it.....and burnish the crap out of the loops before pressing new stuff in....I just use the vice....

GENE

ROD NOCK

To replace U-joints, I've used a vise and impact sockets for years. You just have to watch that the body 'X' of the U-joint doesn't crash into the shaft yoke, or you'll damage it. Soak 'em real good in penitrating oil several days ahead and keep 'em soaked.
On a scale of 1-10, I'd say between a 2 & 3. Do one, and it gets easier from there. :smash: