hudman

My motor is going back in this week. Well, it was until mechanic decided that I should go ahead and change the clutch fork and boot. I wish he would have told me that before now as I have placed multiple orders from parts vendors in the last few months. So everything is on hold until the package arrives from Zips.

One thing he did mention, however, is that the directions included with the Lakewood adjustable pivot ball say that the pivot ball is NOT to be used with stock bellhousings, only aftermarket bellhousings. He says what I have is going to work fine WITHOUT the Lakewood adjustable pivot ball.

That does not make sense to me as everyone on the Forum has encouraged me to get the adjustable pivot ball. Does anyone know why it would say this? I have not seen the directions, but I have no reason to think that he is misleading me.

Thanks.

lars

The CCC (Colorado Corvette Crazies - the Ultimate Corvette Tuning and Beer Drinking Fraternity) has installed several of the DF clutch systems. We are using the adjustable pivot ball in all of our installations in order to get proper adjustment range out of the stock linkage. The adjustable ball, used in the stock housing, needs to be raised about 1/8" taller than the stock ball. We're using the Mr. Gasket adjustable *****.

On the systems where we have NOT installed the adjustable ball, we have had to lengthen the lower clutch rod by about 1.75" in order to get the rod into the mid-point of its adjustment. We've come up with a way to weld in an extension into the stock rod, making it look completely stock after the extension is welded in. But this is a lot more work than installing the ball...

wayne_69_427

:iagree:

Clink69

[Modified by Clink69, 8:53 PM 3/25/2003]

Clink69

Bascially he is wrong... This has been done many times here , including mine... The standard ball is too short.. Need the Adjustment to lengthen it some... Also use LOCKTITE after adjustment is correct... It will move..

My engine installer made the same mistake...

trw

:iagree: I have the stock bellhousing and had to use the adjustable ball.

Only took the trans out 4 times to figure it out. duh :crazy:

Terry

PRNDL

lars, thanks for your enlightening post! :) You make me feel slightly less bubba-like. I screwed in an extension to my lower clutch rod, and, of course it does not "look completely stock" :lol: MJ

hudman

Thanks-I will call him back tomorrow and explain to him the situation.

Rockn-Roll

I upgraded to a DF clutch. I read all the material and discovered that if I kept the throw-out bearing stock, then I could use my original clutch fork and ball stud. I was right, it worked fine; however, I am now at the point where the clutch disk is worn and needs to be replaced. Usually, the symptoms are slippage when letting out the clutch...I don't have much slippage, my symptom is that the clutch was not fully engaging, thus causing the gears to be hard to shift. Upon inspection I found that there was just enough adjustment in the clutch lever to allow the clutch to engage; but, now I AM getting slippage because letting out the clutch pedal brings the throw-out bearing into contact with the rear of the bell housing...thus causing wear in the bell housing...bad..bad...just plain bad.

So, keep in mind that if you DO use the CF throw-out bearing then be sure to replace the fork with a CF fork and ball with adjustable ball. Or, keep everything stock, but keep in mind that when the clutch will only engage at about 1/2 off the floor then it's time to replace the clutch disk and not the time to adjust it, otherwise there will be some unwanted wear in the bell housing.