427V8

OK it's in a box, all taken apart :eek:
I want to rebuild it myself, has anyone been brave enough to do this?
Oh and it has to live behind 500 ft/lbs, 500 hp.... :U

Anyone?

Buhler?

JoeZ

sweet steal. I got mine for $80 afew months ago and thought that was a deal :lol:

I need a rebuild, and it seems you will too. I look forward to hearing how it goes...GL!!! :)

Alwyn678

sell it on ebay for 3000 :lol:

79VetteMike

Anyone have suggestions as to where to find a good deal on one?

Schmucker

Junkyard.
http://www.2004rperformancecenter.com/
Call Bruce and he will tell you everything you need to know. I'm calling him up to get some parts for mine soon.

Dalannex

I got 2 of them for free from a local shop. He put new ones in and gave me the old ones. They both need rebuilds. One of them don't work at all, the other one works but slips to beat heck. I am going to put one of them in my 81'. Was going to be this winter, but the VBP group purchase came up and I got in on that instead. next year maybe.

-Justin

page62

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/

These guys have all kinds of goodies to build up a 200-4R. You'll probably need a billet input shaft -- it's up to you! I think stock is good to 400 ft. lbs. or there about...

Injected

Congrats on the find Keith!
The rebuilt itself is not to bad, I've done a couple of them. The last one was for a 550hp small block in a 67 Chevelle. As with any automatic rebuild make sure you have a bunch of clean counter space to do it on, the parts can seem to be endless when you spill its guts.
If you don't want to do it yourself try Shannons Performance, they rebuild these for a variety of uses and do an excellent job.

Do you know what year and application it came out of?

Greg

Jvette73

Good deal Keith!! What trans is in yur car now? I second the motion to talk to Bruce at performance trans.

sidepipes79

Ok I was given 700r4 and i was wonderin what the pros and cons of each are??

Schmucker

700R4 has a deep 1st gear (3.08) and has a large jump to 2nd. The overdrive is .70. It isn't a direct bolt in and will require some crossmember and driveshaft modifications.
The 2004R, on the other hand, has basically the same gear ratios as a TH350 and the OD ratio is .67. It is a direct bolt in for a TH350.
Think of the 700R4 as a TH400 with overdrive and the 2004R as a TH350 with overdrive.
If you recieved the 700R4 free, don't sweat it about the modifications, it'll be okay in the end.

Jvette73

sidepipes79, Getting a 700 for free is a pro. The debate between the 700 and 200 has been a topic of discussion in many past posts. Lots of stuff in the archives on this debate. My opinion is the 200 is better. When built and installed correctly its just as strong as the 700. The 700 does have a lower 1st gear. The drawback is a wider jump to 2nd. The 200 has closer ratio 1st to 2nd and slighty higher 4th. The 200 is lighter overall and has lighter internals that rob less power from engine leaving more for the rear wheels. The 200 is also a more direct bolt in. Like I said you can check the archives for 200 vs. 700 and find lots of talk.

Jvette73

Heres a link to charts that have dimentions and ratios of all the trans.
http://www.bhrmotorsports.com/data.htm

JJ Deuce

i too have a 700r4 available to me. My car has a th400 now. Is there still some modification necessary to put it in my car, or should I look for a 200 4r?

Jvette73

The 2004R is a direct bolt in when switching from TH400. That was my swap. Stock crossmember will work unmodified. Driveshaft will not need to be cut but you will need to change the trans yoke. TV cable setup is essential to proper function and long life. BTO sells a TV kit that is specific to whatever carb you are using. The 700 would require a custom crossmember, available from BTO, as well a driveshaft cut.

page62

Hey Jeff...long time no see! A decently built 200-4R will set you back at least $1000 (the cost of a Level 2 Bowtie unit). Or you can dig up a junkyard unit pretty cheap and rebuild it. There are even "How-To" videos available. Try to find one that was in a Buick GN or Monte Carlo SS -- there are differences between trannies installed in different cars.

On the other hand, if you already have a decent 700R4, all you'll need to do is move the crossmember and shorten the driveshaft. Or you can use a Bowtie crossmember, which is probably the recommended solution. Either way, the driveshaft will need shortening. Thrash Driveshaft on West Ave. is the best place in town to do that job.

And let me know, I love to help! Just email me. In fact, it seems I'm more eager to help others than work on my own car :crazy:

SmokedTires

That is a great find Keith :eek: . I just got my new CHP (May2003) in the mail today & there's an article on page 102 called Transfer of Power "Bulletproof TH200-4R Tips" that may be some good reading for ya :) .

SharkAttack

What a deal! :thumbs:

ChromeCorvette

Good Job. I once had a chance to have one for free but took the TH350 instead because I was intimidated by the Overdrive thinking it would be a problem installing! Yeah a chance to get a 200 4r for free! And I let it go! :(

Denmech

200-4R is basically a THM200 with a OD unit added to the front!
Conversely the 700 uses simular components from the old THM350, so the 700 was designed to handle more torque!
Now GM's new designations are 4L60E and 4L80E....The 4L80E uses the THM400 design and would be my choice if I were to put an auto behind a high HP motor!