White 68

I,m getting close to stripping paint ..I have most of the trim off the car ...Now the big decision " what method to use " ... :crazy: ...I would like to remove all the old paint and start fresh ....Its a 1968 with custom pearl white paint on it ..its also had a rear clip from a 70 vert down ...Thats where it also got its 454 ls5 donor from....that for any suggestions :flag
What does the razor blade scraper look like??? any pics ...Is it something like the scrapers at home depot and lowes??


[Modified by White 68, 7:56 PM 3/11/2003]

aussiejohn

Dear White 68,
I posted a similar question about August last year and received plenty of replies. The majority said that the old razor blade is the least messy method. Chemicals will work but they are very messy to clean up, plus the fumes in an enclosed environment, whereas the razor blade method just needs a broom and shovel. Hope this helps.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn :cheers:

CF6873

Heat gun? That's one method I haven't heard before for cars. I would suspect that if you got the surface hot enough to loosen the paint you would certainly damage the fiberglass as well. I would try the razor blade method first, but be very carefull not to gouge the glass, especially the concave areas. If that doesn't work well I would use Capt. Lees liquid stripper. Good Luck, Craig

vettfixr

Go to my website at this address and read about stripping paint. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
I know a lot of guys have used the razor blade method but I'm just not brave enough for that. I've stripped my car twice using the method I describe and I've done no body damage and the topcoats I've applied have had no failures. Good luck with your project.

QuickVet

Cleanstrip :yesnod:

Alwyn678

We sanded 7 layers of paint off my car..........Took a while but the result was worth it ...........body is slick

Magic Fingers

Have media blasted, chemical stripped (Captain Lee's), Sanded- (8" D A ), And odd as it sounds, used a Wagner heat gun. The heat gun was by far the fastest and cleanest, but it was freash paint (5 weeks ) when heat stripped. The paint was urathane enamel. It peeled off in sheets up to 5' wide and 10' long.

Stoge

Did you take precautions or use any special procedures to ensure no harm to the fiberglass?

Ki m Le

Questions for vettfixr.
First, why can you applied the stripper in a larger area then 1 or 2 square inches at a time?

Secondly, do you rinse the stripped area immediately with water before move on to the next area? Or just wait until you've done stripping the whole car and rinse?

I've done my 68 with the DA sander 2 years ago (worn out my air compressor). Chemical strip is new to me here.

I've asked before about the Razor method too, but no one came up with a good detail instruction. The typical answer was: "It worked fast and great....blah...blah....".

Can someone out there take time to give us a good instruction?

Thanks

GTR1999

I'm in the middle of doingthat now. I ahve a Master Heat gun(graingers) and razor blades. There's only two coats of paint on the car. I heat up a section and the blade easily removes it. You don't want to bubble the paint and melt it just get it warm enough to lift. Once you try it and get used to it then it goes by fast. You have to be careful if it cools then the razor could dig in. I have 3/4 ofthe car down to the grey primer and have a couple of spots that I'll have to 'glass repair but nothing major. I'll spend more time on the windshield frame and the front headlight support then stripping the paint.
Gary

427V8

While I haven't stripped my entire car I have practiced on an ond T-Top and my hood.

I used Paint stripper on my hood, it was a horrible mess, very time consuming and still required a lot of sanding.

For the T-Top I used a razor, it was much easier, and more accurate.
If you strip paint and don't at least try a razor you are a fool.
Procedure;
1. Get a bunch of single edged razor blades.
2. Get a razor blade holder, it saves the hands.
3. Put a razor into the handle
4. Remove the protecitve wrapper from the razor if it has one
5. place the razor/handle onto a flat area of the surface to be stripped ( flat is easiest)
6. Hold the razor at a shallow angle to the surface, the closer to parallel with the surface the better. ( see dictoinary if you need an explaination of parallel )
7. push the razor forward allowing it to cut into the paint. Once the razor cuts through the paint adust angle to cut through the the paint the easiest.
8. Keep pushing untill you hit the edge of the panel, the razor jumps out of the paint. In either case restart the process from 6.
9. if you have multiple layers you can remove the layers one at a time.
10. If it gets hard to strip, change the razor blade or sometimes just turning it over helps.

Ki m Le

gtr1999,

Cool! Now we have the combination of heat gun and razor. It's getting better.

What type of razor and neccessary handle do you use?

Thanks

Ki m Le

:lolg: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


427V8, Thanks for the "Very details" instruction. It'll definitely helps.

vettfixr

The reason I recommend a small area is because you want to keep the stripper wet. It shouldn't dry on the car and if you try to do too large an area it will dry before you can use a scraper to get it off. In reality once you get the hang of it you can do a larger area. You can also cover the area you are working on with a plastic sheet to prevent the stripper from evaporating. This also allows it to work better. I usually do one panel at a time (i.e. door, fender, hood) before i neutrlize it with water. Once you've stripped the panel take a hose and run water over the panel while using a scotchbrite pad on it. If there are stubbord areas of paint that haven't come off you can use some 220 or 400 wet or dry sandpaper on a block to sand off the residue. Here's a tip. Go to your local office supply and get a couple of the dry erase board erasers. They are sort of like a styrofoam with a felt cover on one side. They make great blocks for sanding and are just the right size. Once I have the entire car stripped I wash it with Dawn dishwashing detergent to remove any grease or fingerprints left over from the stripping process. From there you're ready to start any bodywork or priming that may be needed.

Michael Tucker

Ki m Le,
my wife and i did our whole car with the razor and did not use a handle or a heat gun. we used a single edged blades and went slow as not to nick the fiberglass. we would stick the blade in until we could get an edge of paint and then we would pull on the edge until it stopped coming off. most of the time when it stopped coming off it would leave a little edge to stick the blade in until we were able to pull on the edge again. we might have nicked the glass a few times but after a few coats of primer and sanding they are not there. some of the paint would come off at 1" or 2" and some would be a foot or so long.
i had to drive the car to work as i was doing it and everbody thought i lost my mind as my car was not that bad. i just wanted to fix it up for the 1999 power tour. it must have worked because it made it into the magazine. it needs some tuch up now and the inside worked on but i will not do it before this years power tour.
Mike

Ki m Le

Thank you all for the excellent tips!

White 68, did you get it? Sorry, this is your original post, but I have to jump on.