The Money Pit

I most likely need a vacuum reservoir,just haven't got around to putting one in.So I'm thinking,where would I be able to fit one,and have it somewhat out of the way for easy engine pulls?Anyone got pics of their install?
And did the vacuum can do what you thaught it would?(Give you power brakes.)
God I'm beginning to sound like one of the reporters on CNN when they ask the President multipart questions.
:chevy

bence13_33

Why do you think you need a vacuum canister? Gordon is running the Comp Cams 294S solid flat tappet cam that is 248 duration @ .050". Taking into consideration that you don't have any emissions devices, you could put the vacuum canister where your charcoal filter was. The spot located below your power brake booster is a good location.

1979toy

My vacuum can is still sitting on the workbench but before the weekend it should be in the area where the vapor cannister was. There may be enough room under there for both stacked if you're determined to keep that stuff.
Don't need it for the current engine, but I'm prepping for the 406 and had the master cylinder out so it was easy to access that area.

The Money Pit

I have to pump the brakes before stopping to insure I indeed can stop.Sometimes they feel fine on the first pump,sometimes they go straight to the floor.The cam shakes the car at idle,I figure the vacuum is around 10"'s,haven't check it yet,but it's a far cry from 16-20"'s like a stock cam pulls.

Gordonm

We don't need no stinking vacuum!! I am running 248 duration but I don not have power brakes. I pull about 8 inches at idle at 900 rpm. If I go to power brakes it will be a Hydroboost unit.

71DropTop

Below is the cam I am running and I just checked the Vac today and I'm at 12 inches at a 900 Idle with a vac leak somewhere in the system. BTW my power brakes work even with the leak and I think the duration is 236 @ .050
I don't know much about the Cam and I could be talking out my arzzz :conehead

QuickVet

Brakes should be hard if you have no vacume. Mabey you need a new brake booster.

bence13_33

:iagree:

I agree with QuickVet. Basically if you have ever stalled your car out going down a hill and tried to stop it with power brakes that's what it should feel like. The brake pedal will feel rock solid and will seem to do little to nothing no matter how hard you press it.

Chuck Harmon

My factory L88 cam has about 273 degrees @ .050 and makes about 7.5 Hg of vacuum. The headlights don't pop up quite as quickly as when I ran the L46, but they still open in fairly short order. Likewise, the power brakes are not nearly as sensitive as when I ran the mild engine, but there is still no problem locking up the tires if I wanted to. This is not altogether a bad thing. I found heel/toe shifting very difficult with the incredibly sensitive power brakes at low speeds. Much easier and more smoothly done with the lower vacuum.

When I finally get around to installing my roller cam with 248/256 degrees @ .050 I am looking forward to much higher vacuum readings raising the bar from being "just ok" to "just fine".

Chuck

norvalwilhelm

Get hydraboost brakes. They solve all the vacuum problems. The lights will pop up eventually with even super low vacuum.
The hydraboost system does not have to be expensive if you are willing to go to the wreckers and also have a few lines make up. I have installed 2 units from the wreckers complete with lines custom made for under $150CDN for each setup.

Gordonm

Lets see 150 CDN. That should cost me about 2 dollars. Good deal :jester

QuickVet

what are hydroboost brakes :confused:

cardo0

My '74 headlight vacuum system uses the big cross tube in front of the radiator as a reservoir. Runs off engine manifold with a check valve to keep vacuum high and head lights up while engine vacuum not enough. Don't see why you couldn't plumb straight into that. Looks like a large volume to me - larger than most after market vacuum cans. That would be my first choice.
Hope to install vacuum gauge in my car but it has other priorities right now. Have read that less than about 12 inches vacuum (mercury) is where assesory problems start. Keep in mind vacuum is just pressure less than atmospheric (whats in our lungs). 10 or 12 inches of vacuum (mercury) is about 5 or 6 psi less than atmospheric pressure. What I'm trying to say is that you can't have less pressure than a perfect vacuum - I think it's 27.7 inches Hg or about 15 psi less than atmosphere - no matter how much you rev up the engine. So fix the system and don't over rev the most expensive part. :yesnod:

Gordonm

http://www.hydroboost.com A system that uses teh power steering pump to assist the bracking instead of vacuum. Much better than the vacuum system.

norvalwilhelm

Lets see 150 CDN. That should cost me about 2 dollars. Good deal
_______
That about it Gordonm or so if feels. Acutually you can buy an american dollar for about $1.53 canadian.
So $150 CDN is close to $100 American.

KNEVER

Where can I get a hydro boost for $150cdn? The website says $395 for the kit. Remanufactured at that.

Wrencher

If your pedal's going to the floor, it isn't the booster. All it does is 'assist' the pedal, so any exccess travel is a mechanical problem with the system, such as a master bleeding by or rotor pumping or something of that nature.

I run a pretty radical cam in my BOSS 302, and even then, the power brakes only get hard occasionally, going down a hill or something.

Hans

QuickVet

air in the system?

norvalwilhelm

For $150 CDN you are not getting a kit. The hydraboost from our wreckers is $50 max for a fairly new unit that you remove from the truck. My last one was from a 94 with the dash already removed and so was the engine. The unit was completely dry ,no oil leaks and I could take anything I wanted which included the master cylinder and all hoses. The unit I bought before that was $20 and they had removed it. The wrecking yard units need very little to install in the vet. For lines you can mess with making them up or in my case I went to Regional Hose a company that crimps on ends on stainless flex lines. The bill was about $100 CDN. I have done this twice. The first came to $120 complete and the second system came in at $150.
The complete kits that you can buy are direct bolt in units , everything ready to go with a guarantee. With the wreckers you pay the money, take your chances and fiddle with the lines. If you don't have the money the wrecking yard is a cheap alternative. If you can afford it and don't want any hassels buy the kit.

Paul in Warren

Norval is correct in that if you wish to obtain a "wrecking yard" assist unit and wrestle with getting it to fit and function properly, you to can have the killer hydroboost setup in your Vette. The reason that we exist, and also the reason why our systems are so seemingly expensive at first glance, is because many people out there do not wish to play the wrecking yard games, with the potential for a "bumm unit", incorrect firewall mounting plates, brake pedal rod disasters, master cylinder pushrod incompatibilities, power steering lineset grief, and possible failures of not only the steering systems, but also the brakes!
We offer a direct fit, (NO GUESSWORK!) complete bolt in system (NO MUSS-NO FUSS!) using only the finest show quality ingredients available, hence the seemingly higher prices. This cost also includes a full one year warranty, a no "BS! Satisfaction gauranteed or your money back in full" policy. :D