Wrecked82

my radiator has started to leak from somewhere at the bottom - where I can't see.

So, need to get just a standard copper replacement. What are the dimensions of an 82 radiator? And, it there something I should watch for over whatever they want to sell me - like 4 tube over 3 tube?

Need to do fast - like tomorrow.

427V8

Bring it to a rad shop, They can fix it Cheaper...

Chinaski

had mine recored a few months back, cheaper than new

Wrecked82

Used some of that metallic Br's Lak product, but doubt it is going to hold. It is goopy coming out of the bottle, and can't imagine that is good for anything over a long period.

So, shop is getting me a 4 core radiator that will be installed tomorrow. Cheaper than an aluminum one and should handle the Houston summer heat OK, especially if a 3 core one did.

Now, hope the Bar's Leak holds for one more day.

Paul L

I would flush the system to get rid of the Bar's before the new rad is installed.

killain

A good radiator shop can recore your old rad for 1/4 of what it would cost for a replacement.

Wrecked82

That's what is holding my heater core together! :lol:

Bullyj

The local radiator shop here says they can sell me a new one cheaper than they can recore. They priced me a new 3 core for $224.

Wrecked82

Aaahh! The bigger radiator is now in. Yeah, its not an aluminum, but side by side, it is about 3/4" thicker. Due to the extra row of tubes. Fit without a problem.

Now, to see how it holds the heat down on the drive home.

Jvette73

Glad you got it fixed. Now for others who may read this post and have rad or other cooling sys problems heres a trick I use to help sustain a decrepid cooling sys. On your rad cap there is two gaskets. One to seal the top of the cap and another to seal the cap between the overflow tank. If you remove the gasket form the cap that seals to the overflow it will allow excess pressure when the coolant expands to just bleed into the overflow. The top cap seal will still hold all the coolant in the sys. Some people run with the cap half on to prevent pressure build up. But this usually results in coolant leaking from the cap. By removing the bottom cap gasket and screwing the cap all the way on you also prevent pressure build up but the coolant is retained in the overflow and is drawn back in when needed. It works great and helps prevent leaks caused by pressure and hose blowouts and leaking head gaskets into the cylinder and block and such. When things are all new then pressure is good and aids the cooling. But when things get older and used, pressure build up can cause more throble than its worth. If you have a leak, with this method the overflow will supply the sys with coolant as the level drops. Just keep an eye on the overflow level and add when needed. If you catch it before it gets empty, you never even need to remove the rad cap to check. This method has helped me sustain my daily driver beater pontaic which has a cracked block and leaks to the outside. I put in the stop leak and removed the one cap gasket and just keep the overflow full. I only add maybe once a month and its been years since ive been dooing this. Most mechanics would have told me it was a lost cause. Its still on the road today.

Wrecked82

I was surprised how fast the temps came down after sitting in traffic. Temps come down fast in about a block. You can watch the temp drop. Would drop all the way down to the temp of the thermostat - 180. Not had that happen with anything - straight water, water wetter, 40 below, you name it. Real test will be in summer heat. But I am satisfied.

Ghostrider

Why bother with an aluminum rad. Just buy a new steel-body, 3-core for maximum reliability and minimum cost and don't bother with the unreliable recore. They all have aluminum fins and the (aluminum or steel) body contributes very little to heat transfer. My ZZ4 runs 165F with new 165F thermostat, even in the peak of summer. I also took out (plugged both outlets at engine) the heater and hoses and 3-way pneumatic valve.

Wrecked82

I agree. Everything I read about aluminum radiators said a 30-40 degree drop....Let's see, run at 195. This means a 155 to 165 degree temp. Maybe. Does it run at 165 at high speed? At idle, mine started dropping. So, I am pleased with a 4 core. Maybe stock is 3 core. Anyway, not knocking those who have aluminum. Just wonder about the real need.

virtue4u

I don't know about tweaking the cap to prevent pressure in the cooling system. The pressure is needed to raise the boiling point. A high boiling point helps prevent bubbles from forming around the hot spots near the pistons. If bubbles form, the block will not cool efficiently.

jerryjfunk

I agree. Pressure is needed to make sure you don't boil the coolant. And also, once you do, you permanently decrease it's ability to cool.

Jerry

jackson

Glad you're pleased. Most chain discount auto parts stores offer OE type rads for 77 & up C3. 3-row about $240, 4-row about $295. Modine number: for 3-row is 717, for 4-row is 718. Check LOCAL wholesale auto BODY PARTS dealer ... the ones that sell offshore sheetmetal ... many of them also sell radiators. For instance, a local wholesaler has the 3-row 717 (but it's asian-made) for about $120. I like aluminum ... no it won't drop a 195 to 165 ... but it does cool more ... the t'stat is primary control of temp when all else is working as it should. When all is working as it should but temps are still too high (ie built hi-po motor or extreme ambient temp) ... aluminum rad can definately help a lot. Take a look at modern cars/trucks ... virtually all have aluminum rads ... and they're about half as thick as the copper-brass ones ... many Al rads have only one row ... but cool just as well. Summit sells a very nice universal fit 2-row Al rads made in USA by Northern for about $170-$180 ... they're not in their paper catalog ... find em online under Summit brand name.

Jvette73

Yes I agree and understand that the cooling sys is designed to be most efficient under pressure. I was just passing on a trick that can help sustain tired systems. When I say systems I mean everything regarding sealing in the cooling sys. Head gaskets, hoses, radiator..ect. Its a bubba trick but it works well. Two of my 4 vehicles have the bottom cap gasket removed and have been like that for years. Never had a problem with em even in the hot hot summer. As long as the rad is efficient in cooling and the fan is good and all that its no problem really. Again, its just a bubba trick for the frugal to keep thier beaters going..and going and going.

:smash: :smash: :smash: :D