VolVette

If you saw my thread, you'll know this but...

I sanded the no clearcoat paint on my Vette with 120 grit.
I sprayed 2 coats of DP48
I sanded the DP48 with 120 grit
I sprayed 2 coats of K36
I guide coated the K36
I sanded with 120 grit to remove the guide coat
I sprayed 3 coats of K36
I guide coated the K36
I am now sanding the guide coat with 220 before sanding wet with 600 grit.

Tonight as I was sanding the guide coat, I again sanded through all my sprayed coats down to the Orange paint. :confused: I don't get it. I guide coated, sanded, and the body looks flat.

Should I sand the whole body with 220 and then wet sand with 600? Or do I need to sand with the 220, and shoot another coat of K36 and repeat the process? If the latter, why will my results be different upon the next sanding?

Thanks for your help. :cheers:

Stephen

sb69coupe

What are you planning to spray next? If you're going straight to the basecoat, then you'll need another coat of primer since you sanded through. If you're shooting a sealer prior to the basecoat, you should be OK.

You don't want to sand w/600 if you're priming again, so go ahead and stop sanding and shoot the next primer coat. You could even just spot in some primer over the area you sanded through. and block it smooth. Then sand the whole car w/600 and shoot the color.


[Modified by sb69coupe, 10:50 PM 3/4/2003]

74-Roadster

As a minimum, shoot another couple coats of K36. But to be real safe, I'd shoot another coat of the DP48 and then a couple coats of K-36. When you block sand again, don't use anything rougher than 200. 120 was pretty agressive for blocking the K-36 and can take off a lot of material quickly.

If your really tired and your sure the car is flat and smooth . . . You could just spot shoot the area with K-36 and then wet sand the whole car, 1st with 400 moving quickly over the car and then again with 600.

Again, remember how much time you've invested and all of the money on supplies and tools. Take a deep breath. Go out to dinner this weekend, get rejuvinated and revisit your plans. The more work you put into it now, the prettier the final product will be. :cool: :cool:

Also, now that you have a feel for sanding too much, keep that in mind when your wet sanding the clear coat. Also, you can always apply more clear than normal. 4 coats won't hurt you if you're concerned about sanding through the clear.

Good luck!!! :cheers: Youm may not believe me, but I wish I was sanding on my car . . . Can't wait to be where you are. :thumbs:

VolVette

I am running out of my K36 and may not have enough for one full coat. My K201 14 day shelf life will expire this Sunday.

I am a bit frustrated because I don't understand why the panel that seems the easiest and flattest (the back where luggage rack rests) is where my spots are. The sharp edges and radical curves are very flat. I also don't understand how shooting another coat will make these high spots disappear.

Could it be that I am not sanding lightly enough?

I really appreciate all your help and consultation. The check is in the mail. :D


[Modified by VolVette, 11:08 PM 3/4/2003]

lbell101

If you are still going through the primer before your guide coat around the spot is gone... and it's not on an edge... and you are using a hard block...
then you ain't done blocking yet. Get some more primer and do it again until it's really flat (not just looks flat). But don't use 120 grit, it's too coarse and may be the problem. You don't have to do the whole car if the rest of the car is flat.
I usually use 3 primer sprays using 180,220, and 400 afterwards. I use 600 without repriming. If it's not flat (ie: I'm still going through) then I prime and block some more. You should not be sanding DP primer with 120 grit. It's there to seal and you HAD TO go through it. You don't have to sand it at all if you get the primer on it in time (I think it's 48 hours but you need to check the P sheet to be sure). ALWAYS seal again before painting with DP, it will vastly improve the job.
I'm not a guru but my paint usually look nice.

Larry

69vette66

This Is what I did on my vette, first i stripped it down to the glass, then primed 3 coats with spray polyester by standox. Block sanded with 180, then I reprimed with 3 coats of k36, and a light coat of guide coat mixed with k36, giving a smooth finish on which I can Block with 280, then I Hit it again with 360, and right before i put in the prep deck, I hit it again with grey scotch brite. you sealer should cover the small scratches, Mine did. I put 1 coat sealer tinted close to color, the 3 coats base, 2 coats pearl, then 3 coats clear. as for the high spots, 90% you will never see. I did go through spots on my car, but as long as they are small it will not matter. It will be cover with sealer. I didn't wetsand my car. K36 asorbs water and could cause problems down the road, if it doesn't sit long enough after wetsanding. we had problems with a 72 chevy 4x4, wetsanded then paint following weekend, paint bubbled after 4 mths, our PPG rep said wetsanding K36 was the problem. and not letting it sit long enough. we haven't wetsanded since.
:cheers: Larry

VolVette

I sanded more today and found the other worst spot on the headlights. I really don't understand, my curved fenders are nearly flawless with only a few small spots where DP48 is showing. The headlights are small and should be flat? Can someone help me understand why the least flat spots are on the back panel and headlights?

I searched for threads on AlWyn678's paintjob and found that some before shooting the basecoat, there was color coming through the primer at spots. His paint looks fantastic.