Koz

I'm having the differential rebuilt/resealed and I'm looking at the trailing arms. With everything out of there I have more working room. Car has 95K miles on her and I'm sure they have the original bearings. Do now or wait till I hear/feel problems?
I took a lame aproach at removing them. I removed the outer bolt and hit the bolt a few times but I need a serious size punch to get it to move. I heard people talk about cutting the bolt.. where? On the inside between the arm and the bracket through the bushing? I can see the bolt head but cutting that won't do much good. Thoughts?

Second point is the shims. Can I just use the same shims putting them back the same way they come out? I've read no.. What are the shims for? How would I know how many and where to put them? Do you just shim the arm center in the bracket?

Last.. for now.. I read some people powder coat the arms. It must look great. What does something like that cost? The rear bearings are not causing me a problem but I'm guessing it's going to be a few hundered bucks per side to just redo the bearings.. right? Anyone in CT know a good place?

Thanks for all the help. :cheers:

PatG

If it was my car I would do them now while the rear end it out. I'm not sure where others have cut the bolt, I was able to get mine out in one piece. The shims are used for alignment in the rear of the car. If you pull the trailing arms you can reuse the old shims but many people go with stainless shims as a replacement. Also if you have everthing apart you will most likely have to get the rear re-aligned afer reassembly.

mayberg

I agree - do them now if you have the time and can afford it. You may be having some play in the rear and just be used to it.

I've given some thought to upgrading to the heavy duty trailing arms. When you disassemble the trailing arm and see how flimsy the arm actually is, you might consider that too.

I was successful in getting the bolt to punch through. I used a big pipe clamp U-bolt to punch out the trailing arm bolt - after giving it a bath in rust breaker.

If you have to cut the bolt out, I assume you have to cut through the shims and/or the outer part of the bushing and sleeve.

As the previous poster says, the shims are for rear toe alignment. You may or may not put the same shims back in the same place, but it's a good start to get you to the alignment shop. And, the alignment shop may not align your rear if the shims can't come out, so since you might be wanting to do it anyway, go ahead and make it easy for the alignment guy by getting the rear shims cleaned up.

jvm

I would also look at the play in your yokes. If there is much, now is the time to do them also Jim

R. Bruno

As others have said, if you have the $$ now is the time. Consider sending the whole arm to Bairs or Van Steel and having them rebuilt. The cost is about $300+ per side if I recall, but you will be done with it. Rotors will be resurfaced, parking brake, bushing etc. In the long run it is the cheapest way to go both in time and $$. Definately try removing the bolts first before cutting. I and others have not had to cut the bolts.
I also sent my half shafts out when I did the job and had new u-joints put in and had them sandblasted and painted (Bairs). Of course, you might as well put in new strut rod bushings while you have them off... the list goes on. Bottom line: If you have an extra $1000-1200 to spend (not counting the differential), and can do the remove and replace yourself, you can rebuild the entire rear end and have done with it. When the summer comes and you have the piece of mind you will be glad you did.

Koz

Yup.. I'm having fun now.. I have to replace the strut rod bushings either way.. Does Bair do them too or is there an easy way to R&R them.. I don't own a press.. Thanks! :cheers:

Koz

Did they get painted or powder coated? Cost? Color? Details Please :D

Robd

If you have the nut removed soak it with a penetrating spray for a day. With a solid jolt from a stout hammer it should move. Give Brian a call at Bairs and he will send you the boxes to ship your T-Arms back in. Just drop your strut rods in the box and will take care of them also. That’s what I did with mine and am 100% pleased.

Koz

I got my Trailing arms out last night. After soaking and beating out the shims and then soaking the bolts the passengerside and then going midevil with the hammer it freed up and came out.. The drivers side was frozen inside the bushing and wouldn't budge... It would slide back and forth but beat that puppy over and over and that bolt just would not move. I dreaded having to cut the bolt because of all the nightmairs I heard.. Going through several blades didn't sound like a fun job.. BUT.. I found the right blade and I have to share this with anyone looking to do this job. FORGET soaking and beating.. Got to Homey Depot and buy this blade. $2.88. Pickup the nut and bolt for removing the shock mount while your there. 5/8 fine thread..




I started on the head side of the bolt and it went through so fast I thought I did something wrong. It was still jammed in there so I had to cut the outside as well and I timed that cut.. 32 seconds.. 32 SECONDS..! OK.. I broke the first blade because I was afraid the blade would cut the body of the car and the tip of the blade hit the bolt on the first trigger pull. Put the second blade in and this blade just riped through the bolt.. like butter. I wouldn't have taken the chance beating the bolt and hitting the car if I knew it would cut this easy. Anyone needing more info on this send me a note. Between that blade and the shock removal nut and bolt trick this worked great! :party: Thanks for everyone's help on getting it out. I'll be looking for you help again when putting it back in!!


[Modified by Koz, 12:17 PM 3/6/2003]


[Modified by Koz, 12:22 PM 3/6/2003]

Koz

Thanks Rob,
I plan on going to VanSteel. The price is about the same and they powder coat them for no extra charge. :cheers:

adamdinat

Thanks for the blade tip. I am pretty sure mine will have to be cut out and have been looking for a recommendation on what blade to use. :smash:

914eener

Just got both sides from Van Steel and they're beautiful!. ;) I didn't want to bother with rebuilding mine so I just ordered two already rebuild ones with stainless hardware ($389 + $300 core for each side) Just returned both sides for the core credit this week. The counter lady at UPS said "why's this box so heavy on one end - did you not pack it right". :D I'll be interested to see if I get the full monty back on the cores.

If you're going to do struts take a look at the VBP Smart Struts before you lay your money down on anything else.

LiveandLetDrive

I'm hoping you're not using that carriage bolt in your suspension :eek: :eek: Non-hardened steel is a no-no (It's tempting I know, 10" spring bolts for $2, but be ready for a real lowering job when those things snap off!!)

-Chris

Koz

Don't waste your time with trying to beat the bolt out.. Each time I swung the hammer I thought about either missing the ram rod and smashing my fingers or even worse.. hitting the car. :eek: This blade is awsome. You should still remove the shims.. What you will want to do is spray the shims with some PB Blaster or alike to loosen them up.. Remove the long cotter pin that holds the back of the shim in and with a screw driver and hammer tap the shims upwards towards the bottom of the car.. Try to get the shims seperated where you can get one shim to show the back whole where the cotter pin was holding it. Get a screwdriver in that whole and pry it out. I used the bent screwdriver tool I purchased to install the door springs.. Once you get one out the rest will fall out. That will expose the bolt. This blade cuts so easily that I would cut it between the bracket where the shims were just sitting.

On mine the bolt slid back and forth in the bracket but wouldn't come out because it was frozen to the t-arm. That allowed me to push the head of the bolt away from the braket when I cut it. If you cut where the shims were sitting you will get the the t-arm out of the way but you'll still have to deal with the bolt left in the car. Probabbly some more PB blaster but this time it's right were you want it.

I originally had this job listed as a 9 on a 1 to 10 scale based on what I've read and seen. It's dropped to a 6 after doing it. Then again, I changed my rear spring last year so all the spring bolts were still new..

Good Luck! Ask if you have questions. The guys on this forum will help you through it..