Weird Science

First, I should ID myself. Formely c3 Dreamer. Since I bought one and am no longer a dreamer, I changed my username.

Here is the story behind me getting this car:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=499652

First, info on the enigne. I tore it down and now know what parts were used. Some real nice parts in this one.

It's a 383. The engine had 3000 miles on it. It was align honed, torque plate honed, all the good stuff. Here is a list of parts:
Holley alluminum Heads
Holley Street Dominator Intake
Holley 750 CFM race carb. (Not 100% sure what it is. No airhorns,choke, etc.)
Crower 1.6 Roller Rockers
Stock Rods
ARP Studs for Heads, mains, and even oil pan
Mildon Pan
TRW 10:1 Forged Pistons
Stock 400 Crank.
Ceramic Coated Hooker Super Comp headers
3" Exhaust all the way back.
Very big sold cam & lifters.

Shop that built motor estimated 500+ HP.

My worst fear was confirmed. Yes, the engine swallowed a carb stud right into #6.

Piston was destroyed. I dont trust the rod. Crank still looked very good.
Engine block was cracked @ #6. The head was chewed up a little. A friend from a machine shop said they can fix the head so that is great news.

Now I need a plan.

Here are my goals:
For now, a nice strong streetable enigne.. The cam will have to go. I need a more mild hydraulic grind. Ultimately I want a 12 sec car that gets 20 mpg and have very nice manners. I'm considering a LT1/4l80 combo. For right now, I jsut wanna drive it. :)

My options:
1- Re-sleave the broken cylinder ($80), buy a new piston and rod, replace the bearings, cam, balance it, and run it. Here is my question: Since this block just had all the machine work done 3000 miles ago, is there any reason I will now need to re align-hone, etc? Any opinions what else I should check or work on the block?

2- Buddy has a nice 400 block he will give me.. Just needs rings and bearings. Bolt my heads, rockers, other good parts on the shortblock and get 400hp easy with a milder cam..

Also, I have somemone who will trade me a whole TPI setup for the carb.. Hmmm.. VERY tempting.

Another happy suprise- I got under the car and the undercarriage has been completely restored as well. Basically, the only ugly parts on the car arre the ones you can see. (Body, interrior)

shotgun_000

If I were in your position, I would either build the 400, or buy a crate engine.

How about a ZZ4, and just install a hotter camshaft?

I would be very hesitant to reuse anything from the current engine, and even more hesitant to try and repair the engine. Instead, maybe you could sell the parts that look ok, or trade for other parts you need.

Good luck with it!

:cheers:


[Modified by shotgun_000, 2:46 PM 3/2/2003]

PatsLs1vette

either choice is a good one either sleeve the block and make sure you mag. the crank,or build the 400,which youll love the torque it makes.

Zack Wenning

I would build the 400 block with TPI. I think that combination is best suited to your wants.

cardo0

With only 3k miles option 1 looks like the fastest track to return to the road. If you know a trusting machine shop just resleeve that thing and buy one new piston. Some motorheads sleeve all thier bores. Check and or replace that one rod then balance that assembly. New ring set and rehone the big holes. Choose your cam and maybe a more street friendly carb too. Less than $1000 total.
Option 2 means starting machine work all over - big $$ - the sky is the limit here. Shop for all new matching parts too. With a 400 block you'd need to drill the steam holes in your heads - not too much work - just beware. Coolant passages in block could use plug restrictors - more headaces. Good luck finding the right pistons for correct comp. ratio. :confused:
While youv'e got heads off: remember to measure the volume on top of your piston @ TDC (measure more just one and average); then measure head chamber volume - prove manufactures advertized volume isn't a lie. Use all this knowlege for comp. ratio. A big help in choosing the camshaft. :seeya

rainman69

Fix your motor and give me the 400 block! :jester


I would say, building a 427 SBC out of the 400 block might cost more, but more better grunt! :smash:

fishman

85.11

:iagree:

Schmucker

No no no, my dad or I need it!

LAvetteman

:iagree:

Weird Science

I was kind of leaning that way.. I could get used to the torque. I need to make sure the block isn't already punched out .030 or more.. Don't want to go too much on a 400.

Turbo-Jet

how does an engine swallow a carb stud? :confused:

Weird Science

Belive it or not, the stud was busted right at the carb. I found it all smooshed up in the cylinder. I also have no idea why a carb stub would bust right there.. I also did not think the 2"+ stud could work through the carb, intake, and valves but it somehow made it.

Rockn-Roll

I wouldn't waste my time with a cracked block. If you do proceed with a resleeve then be sure and get it magnafluxed to inspect for hariline fractures in the water jacket of block skirt. It might be better to go ahead and look around for a block that has no possible defects, perhaps a new block since you already have many of your parts. The head may be able to be repaired, but I wouldn't count on it...anything that can destroy a steel sleeve can cause havok with an aluminum head.

My vote would be for choice #2...build a 400, and be sure to get the TPI...it helps a great deal under fast cornering.