nada

First, if a lower stud (1 of 3) is broken, can it be drilled out and new stud put in it's place?

Second, once a manifold is sand or bead blasted, what is the best high temperature product recommended for painting the manifold?

Third, Is the heat riser completely separate from the exhaust manifold and will an Autozone or other commercial part be a good match to the original GM riser?

Thanks gents,

mayberg

Hey Rick, I'll help you out on part of number 3.

The heat riser is a separate part from the exhaust manifold. I can't offer much on whether an Autozone part would work/fit as well as a GM part, but I wouldn't think you'd have too much trouble.

Now, I've got to go take a number 2.

78Vette-SA

I used Eastwood Hightemp paint 3 yrs ago and they still look like new. Put it on and then it has to heat and cure.

Factory Gray High Temp Coating 1 Pint
Item No. - 34105 Z
$18.99



Not the best pic but this is what it looks like on the car:

Click to enlarge:

RMS73

The stud can be drilled out and the hole retapped. Try drilling a hole for an 'easy-out' first. I used PB blaster, a penetranting oil on the first stud for two days and it backed out with the easy out. The second stud I had to drill out completely and retap. Make certain you drill the hole as straight as the stud is. If not the new stud will be angled and can cause a little difficultly in putting ths stid through the exhaust pipe flange.
Roger

I used POR15 on my exhaust manifolds after they were sandblasted. Within three months portions had started to peal off. Don't know if I did not cure it right or what.
Roger


[Modified by RMS73, 9:04 PM 2/28/2003]

goinbroke

78Vette-SA.... where did you buy that high temp coating? That looks like great stuff.

Thanks

Smokehouse69

Rick,
Any muffler shop should be able to extract the broken stud and replace it with a new one. I used POR-15 on my exhaust after a very extensive scrubbing with a wire brush on my drill. I tried media blasting on one of them, but it didn't seem turn out any better than my drill and rotary wire brushes.
I painted them one afternoon and they appeared dry to the touch the next morning, but just to be sure I cured them by sticking a propane torch inside the manifolds and heated them up. They smoked like crazy and it stunk pretty bad, but after about 10 minutes of heating it stopped smoking. After they cooled I sat them on the shelf for 4 months until I installed the motor.
I've had them on the car for about 3 months (1000 miles) and they still look like the day I put them on.

78Vette-SA

http://www.eastwoodcompany.com

Just brush it on (it's much easier with the exhaust off the car but could be done on). If I went out in the garage and took a pic, even after 3 yrs, it still pretty much looks the same.

goinbroke

Thanks very much for the reply, 78-SA

:cheers:

Rowdy Rat

Rick,

Absolutely... It is done all the time. Probably easier with the manifold removed from the car, but I would be willing to bet that it can be done with the manifold installed provided that there is enough clearance to work.

It really depends on what you intend to do with the car. If NCRS judging or Bloomington Gold certification is in the cards, then you'll need to leave the exhaust manifolds bare which is the way that the factory installed them. Gary (GaryS on this board) has a great method for maintaining a rust free appearance on bare manifolds... You might wish to contact him for the procedure.

If you are not into factory correct judging, then there are a number of products which can be applied to prevent the manifolds from rusting.

Why not use the GM heat riser? There are a few minor variations from the original used on your car, but it is still available.

Regards,

NHvette

No one has mentioned the Calyx ?sp? product for manifold dressing.

It's kinda old-school these days - but works. It is a can of shoe-polish
consistancy paste. You get a rag and rub it onto the surface of the manifolds.
It comes out similar to the Eastwood product shown above. More-over,
it can be less messy, as it is rubbed on - rather than painted (drips).

As far ar POR-15 goes - it is NOT heat resistant to exhaust temps.
You would need to go with one of their high heat paints - POR-20 (I think)
to get lasting results.

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?d...N0SM2EP3QRF6G8

Jughead

I used POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Paint. Don't think regular POR-15 will work. They also make POR-20 which I'm going to use on my headers.