The Dude

I've been out there for three nights trying to get the damned pumpkin back in the car. I've used the little jack. I've used the big jack. I've crawled underneath and tried to bench press the bastard back in. I've dropped it on the floor. I've dropped it on my chest. Tonight I dropped it full onto my left bicep and I can already tell that I'm going to have trouble using that arm tomorrow.

I've put the front and side yokes in this orientation. I've put them in that orientation. I've tried being gentle. I've tried cranking myself into a homicidal rage and forcing it back up there. :banghead: I've tried going into a mellow, Zen Alpha state and visualizing it going back up there.

Some strategies, please? Right now the car is raised and the strut rod bracket is completely disconnected so it's not in the way. The MFer just doesn't wanna go up there. It's not even close.

Help--any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.



[Modified by The Dude, 11:35 PM 2/27/2003]

mapman

I'm no expert. However, the Van Steel suspension video shows them installing the differential, differential cross-member, and the drive shaft (propeller shaft) as a single unit.

They used a floor jack under the differential to roll and jack up the differential/cross-member into position as they guided the drive shaft into the transmission. With the differential already attached to the cross-member, it was a matter of attaching the cross member to the frame. It is evidently easier to attach the differential/cross-member as one piece to the frame, than it is to attach the differential to the cross-member.

On my 1980 the differential and differential carrier (cross-member) are a single unit, and, made out of aluminum. The lower weight makes it a lot easier to handle, and bolting it to the frame is easy. :)

Twin_Turbo

:withstupid:

Install in one piece, getting the diff up to the crossmember and then installing the bolts is a major PITA


[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 3:18 AM 2/28/2003]

GTR1999

I did as the others said. It's much easier to remove and install them with the cover and cross member. If you followed the manuals they say to seperate the differential form the cover and remove,but as you already know, it goesback on an angle and the side yokes have to be in position to clear everything. The only thing I can thinkof doing it like this would be using a transmission jack that tilts.
Good luck,
gary

fauxrs

:iagree: Dont even mess with trying to install the front half of the pumpkin with the crossmember and rear cover still in place - oh sure - guys with a lift and tranny jacks can do it all day long - but us plebs lying on our backs dont feel the love. :lol:

You are two bolts away from making your life a million times easier = they hold the crossmember to the frame. Remove those, if you are like everyone else there will be some swearing getting the crossmember to disengage from teh frame but once that is done - its easy as pie to attach te pumpkin then lift the whole assembly on the end of a floor jack up into place - 3 bolts (2 to frame, 1 at pinion) and its in.

stop beating yourself up :lol: break down and do it the easy way. :cheers:

BTW, yes it is very possible to put it in the way you are describing, just no fun, and a lot harder IMO YMMV :flag

norvalwilhelm

As everyone has already said Remove the cross member, bolt the rearend to it and install as a unit.
Now to remove the crossmember there are 2 ways, well maybe 3. The 3rd way is the worst. Pry with a large bar. Not a good way.
Another way is to buy or borrow a large gear puller and with the bolt part way out use the gear puller to break the sucking or joint between the frame and rubber crossmember.
A final way is to take 2 large chissels and use them as wedges between the frame and crossmember. One in front and one behind the cup in the crossmember. Remember to leave the bolts about 1/2 way on to prevent the crossmember from falling down. The chissels act like a pickle fork.
Good luck but it is alot easier doing it as a one piece deal.

The Dude

Thanks for the replies. The consensus seems to be to yank the crossmember. I'm leaning that way myself.

FYI, I have done this before without removing the C.M. Last time it just plunked right up there and hung on my guide pins as pretty as a picture.

Aaron76

I have just went through this 3 times in my own car and it can definitely be done with out removing the cross member.
If you have the Hanes manual it gives a good picture of what position the yolks have to be in before installing pg 8-10 and needless to say but make sure you have the toung off the diff. if you want I can scan the pic for you and send it to you.
if you don't set it up in this fasion you will not be able to install it. It sure helps to have someone else under the car with you to support the weight when you install the bolts as well.
hope this helps.

Aaron76

Oh yes one more thing if you remove the crossmember you might ( probably will) find that the big bushings are shot.
just a heads up.

The Dude

Ah, but Mr. Tongue has to be on mine because the rearward bolt can't be installed/removed while the diff in in place. Too long. Another pair of hands would be nice, though.

Aaron76

I'm sorry I keep forgetting that I have no under car exhaust it makes for a lot more room. per haps you could just loosly install the rear bolt so that the toung would move. It might give you more clearance.

bence13_33

Dude:
It took me 9 hours to pull out my old rear end and install the new rear end by myself. It is by far easier to drop the entire crossmember. I tried doing it the way that you mentioned on my first rearend installation and found it to be very difficult that way. Pulling the crossmember is much easier. All I did was put a floor jack under each end of the crossmember and jack that baby up a little at a time. As I was doing it, the front end where the driveshaft yoke is tilts towards the ground. I just slowly shimmed under the end as I used the floor jack to raise the crossmember into place with the rear end attached. Good luck.