SaltyNuts

Several of you guys helped convince me to get an aluminum flywheel to go along with a dual-friction CenterForce clutch going into my 1980 vette which will have a new 6-speed ROD.

The CenterForce page for Chevrolet flywheels is here:
http://128bitencrypted.com/centerfor...tarq=CHEVROLET

(if that doesn't work, you can simply go to http://www.centerforce.com and hit "online catelog" then "flywheels" then "chevrolet" and it comes up)

Assuming I stay with my same engine block, it looks like I want either 900120 or 900100 (both for all Chevy engines up to 1985 excluding 400/454 blocks).

The difference appears to be the (i) the ring gear teeth (one has 168 and another 153), and (ii) the clutch pattern (one is a '2' and another is a '2,3').

Can you guys tell me which I want? Those stats mean nothing to my ignorant self.

Also, if I decide to go to a different block (such as 400 block, or an aftermarket block to build a 427 small block), will I really have to get a new flywheel? Or can the old one be modified accordingly (for a reasonable price)? Getting a new one would be an expensive $700+ lessen....

Thanks alot.

GeoffSchultz

Saltynuts here.

Anyone?

DREGSZ

OK, there is a little info missing but I'll make some assumpotions for you.
If you are running a small block, with a regular 350 ci crank (3.48") then you need an internally balanced 153 tooth flywheel.
If you run a 383 stroker, or 400 then you need a 168 tooth externally balanced fly wheel, if you run a 454 then you need a 454 specific 168tooth externally balanced flywheel.

For light weight I just priced flywheels for my 454 at $350, then I looked in the GMPP catalog and found a lt wt GM flywheel for $175 @ between 16-20 lb.
That's good enough for me, I have a centerforce dual; friction in both cars. I don't expect any install problems.
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Pric...646-0.886.html

In the race car, I have a 9.5lb flywheel from 10,000 RPM of Lancaster, CA about $350 mated to a SBC and centerforce clutch, no problem, but needed their special long throwout bearing for an extra $65ish

If you don't have an extreme application, I would just get the GMPP flywheel at a reasonable price.

SaltyNuts

Thanks Evan. Had no idea that I would need a different flywheel if I went from a 350 to a 383 (which I was definately considering).

So lets say I get a 350 flywheel, and later upgrade to a 383. Is it true that there is absolutey no hope in using the old flywheel? If thats the case, I'll probably get a cheap steel one now, then upgrade when I decide which route to go with my engine.

Thanks alot.

DREGSZ

There is one way.
If you start with your stock 350 and for now upgrade the tranny, and what the hell, while it's apart, upgrade the flywheel. then do the motor later... ok.

There is one way to go with an internal balanced lite wt flywheel now and then have it work with a rotating assembly change later.
But $175 isn't alot to spend twice if you end up needing to buy a different flywheel later.
It's actually cheaper to do that then to buy an internally balanced, forged 3.75" crank but Eagle does make them instead of the standard externally balanced 3.75" crank for a 383/400 rotating assembly.

So let's take a step back.
Do you already have your Richmond ROD, and if so, what did you pay for it?Why that tranny, it's strong but very expensive and lots of rowing.
Why not get a T56 for half the price? or I would swap a Tremec TKO 5 speed before either of the ROD or T56
The ROD only has 1 od gear and is more like a 5 speed the 6 speed.

Knowing yourself, what kind of motor do you think you will build.
Taking a stock 350 and upgarding to a mild, street 383, 425hp? $1500-$3000
All forged bottom end, roller cam, alum heads 600 hp $5000+
Add a nice Dart Little M block for $1800.
you can get a Cat nodular iron, 383 drank for$200 or $300, the forged internal balanced Eagle crank is $650

If your not planning on spending big, use a stock flywheel for now and worry about it later,



[Modified by Evan Ginsberg, 6:24 AM 2/28/2003]

SaltyNuts

Hey Evan, thanks again for the help.

The ROD is already ordered and at the mechanic. I actually started a thread asking about whether I should get a ROD or a T56. The large majority of people said a ROD was superior (strength), and, more importantly, is almost a bolt-in into a 1980 vette, whereas the T56 requires alot of modifications. I actually prefer the 5 reg speeds and one overdrive---I don't do that much highway cruising but enough that one overdrive is enough (the hugely steep one in the T56 isn't necessary). I plan to have at a minumum ~425 horses, hopefully closer to 500.

Anyways, I have decided to do what you said and get a cheap one now, then upgrade it later if I get other than a 350 motor. I don't think I can use my stock one---as it is currently an auto.

That light wait steel flywheel you said you found in the GMPP catelog sounds like the ticket. Do they have a catelog online I can order from, or can you by any chance get me a part number and a number to call in an order? Sounds like a great deal.

Thanks alot.


[Modified by SaltyNuts, 5:02 AM 3/4/2003]

SaltyNuts

How about this one:

Outside diameter is 12 3/4" for years 1955-85. Crank Flange bolt pattern: 3.58"; clutch dia.: 10.4"; starter ring gear teeth: 153. Lightweight nodular iron flyweel. Weighs approximately 15 pounds. For two piece crank seal.


The part number is 14085720. I found the description at http://www.spoperformanceparts.com, and it is priced $175 at http://www.gmperformanceparts.com. Look like it? If not, will this one do the trick for a stock 1980 (two-piece rear main seal) 350 in a vette?

EDIT UPDATE: I see it is priced at $145 at gmpartsdirect.com

On a side note, at 15 lbs, I think it is LIGHTER than the aluminum ones. Why would anyone pay extra for an aluminum one if they can get a lightweight steel one for less?

Thanks.


[Modified by SaltyNuts, 5:03 AM 3/4/2003]


[Modified by SaltyNuts, 5:06 AM 3/4/2003]

Chuck Harmon

Salty,

I posted to your other thread earlier. I mentioned that I have a McLeod flywheel and dual disc clutch sitting on the work bench waiting to be installed, yet I currently have the 153 tooth (12.75" diam.) lighweight nodular iron flywheel (part #3991406) you are describing. This is almost as light as the aluminum ones. I have used this same part number for both my 350 and my 427. They make an externally balanced version for the 454 too, you don't have to get the heavier 14" flywheel for the 383 or the 454 (part #3963537).

Chuck

SaltyNuts

I remember ya Chuck. I searched several GM performance parts sights for #3991406, and didn't see anything. I did find several 3963537 parts, though. Any idea at what sight I can find part 3991406?

I think I am gonna switch to a new post, since this post title is misleading due to the change in direction from an aluminum to steel flywheel. Ill keep an eye for yalls responses on both, though.

Chuck Harmon

Salty,

The #3963537 was cataloged as late as a 1998 GM Performance Parts book. Would be a shame if they have dropped production already. I believe it also goes by a flywheel ID#3935411.

Chuck