mrframe

I plan to remove and rebuild my trailing arms on my 72 Vette. Can anyone provide me with the correct removal procedure, rebuild tips, or point me to any written material which would guide me through this procedure.

Thanks! :nopity

Ryan77

I'll check my Haynes manual and see if it's in there, and let you know. Or you can probably buy one from a local auto parts store, and I know vette suppliers (Eckler's, Zip, etc.) carry them too. For under $20 they're pretty handy to have :cheers:

tippi58

:iagree:

Not a huge amount of work but can get tricky with seized bolts (trailing arms and shock mounts):smash:

Probably too much info to go into in a post.

Get a manual and away you go. Leave lots of time available for penetrating oil to penetrate and I suggest you also replace your spring and strut rod bushings/rubbers at the same time.

Good luck

:cool: :cool: :cool:

Captain Morgan

One piece of advice, pick up a shock mount removal tool from one of the corvette suppliers. It will save your shock mounts from getting mushroomed when you take them out, saving you a bit of money. The removal "tool" is about $10 - $15 but well worth the money since the mounts are about $35 each. Do a search for archived topics posted by "Jenny" in the C3 section. She did a complete rear end resto and posted pics and info as well.

Armstrong

Here is some very good info on the subject.
http://www.c3sharktank.com/tech2/rear3.html
Search around and I'm sure you'll find more.

mapman

Get a copy of the Van Steel suspension video - lots of information.


http://www.vansteel.com/


[Modified by mapman, 1:18 AM 2/26/2003]

norvalwilhelm

I posted this on another post on rear wheel alignment and pulled it off for here.
Anyway this is roughly the proceedure.


To do the job right the trailing arm must come out.
!st remove the long bolts on the spring.
Remove the flanges on the 1/2 shafts to allow the 1/2 shafts to be dropped.
Remove the shocks.
Remove the bolt through the out strut rods. This is a tight fit and each has it's own side so don't mix them up.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Now the swing arm should be free.
The hard part is removing the bolt through the frame. Getting the nut off is no problem and if you are unlucky the through bolt will be seized solid and no amount of penetrating oil will free it. It has rusted solid to the metal tube that goes through the center of the bushing on the trailing arm.
My 75 had a giant cotter pin through the end of the shims so this had to come off first.
Anyway after removing the nut I worked my shims out by prying and eventually worked them all out. They were slotted. I then had to cut the bolt close to the outside of the frame then pushed the swing arm towards the center of the car and cut the back of the bolt off.
This allowed the trailing arm to be removed from the car.
Install a new bushing that comes with a stacking tool. Buy the poly bushing and stainless shims, slotted open end or make your own like I did.
Put everything back using lots of grease.
Use the needle nose pliers to push the bolt from the inside of the frame towards the outside, start the nut then add a few shims to the inside and fill up the left over space on the outside and snug the nut, not too tight, you are taking the car to the alignment shop. The job is easy for the alignment guy to pull shims or add shims.
If you can afford the smart struts it is even easier.
You want to free everything up, lots of antiseize.
You will know that in future everything is right in the back end and easy for any furture work.
Good luck and if you need to talk about it more just email me or ask on the forum.
Hope I didn't leave too much out.
Do it right the first time and never again
_______

Norval

Van Steel

I have a video on removal and installation for corvette suspension. Tells you everything you'll need to know about your suspensions. I'm not sure if it's for sale on my website yet but if you give me a call at my office I can get one out to you. Many have used them and they all say good things about the video. my number is 800-418-5397 ask for Dan

Mack

You need a Helms Manual. It's the original GM shop manual. (Actually it's more than one book.) It's year specific and not model specific. You also need an "Assembly Instruction Manual". (Most people call it the "AIM".) This is a manual with a set of drawings showing how the car is to be assembled. It was used on the factory floor as instuctions to the people building the car. With these two books, you should be able to do anything you need to.

Can I get an "Amen"? :yesnod: :D

Stewart's74

Lots and lots of beer. :thumbs:
And ear plugs for any kids nearby. Theres gonna be a barrage of 4 letter words coming from your garage.

Simul8

I'm in the process now. 1 can of PB Blaster down, 6 Sawzall blades, Lots of 4 letter words and still don't have one out yet.
Damn Northern cars. :banghead: