74 vert

How much weight is saved by running an aluminum block? What are the pros and cons of running an aluminum block. How much would someone expect to pay to build one making 450-500 HP?

I frequently drive past a engine manufacturer on my why to buy parts at a corvette aftermarket supplier and decided to stop and look. Man was I surprised to see about 20 dirt track engines on the shop floor :jester The daughter wasn't impressed, but I was grinin' ear to ear :D I believe they were all BB aluminum engines. The shop was closing so the manager didn't have time to BS with me. I think his engines run $25K and up. Too rich for my blood.

In search of 500HP.

:auto: :flag


[Modified by 74 vert, 1:03 AM 2/21/2003]

Shark Racer

The Alum small blocks run ~3000 for the block alone. Not that much cheaper than an aluminum big block.

The problem I see is that our cars are already rear heavy as they sit... they'll practically drive like mid-engine cars w/ an alum small block. (Heavy rear bias.) You'll get great traction with all the weight shifted to the back, though.

It all depends on what you want- personally, I feel the ultimate setup would be an aluminum big block.

I'll let the experts handle the rest...

-Steve

Metal Wulf

you could do an LS1 converion, it shouldn't be hard getting 500hp out of it either.

Corvettes White

I DID this, so may I add my two cents here with the caveat, I have no clue as to what I am doing, just having fun.

I spent about $8,000 or 9,000 having an engine built for my ’69. In round numbers as follows

2000 used Chevy aluminum bow tie block.
1000 new Edelbrock heads.
2000 383 parts, pistons, crank, etc.
500 Holly carb and used ’70 lt-1 intake.
500 ignition.
1500 or so for odds and ends.
1000 machine work and labor.
0 I installed the motor in the car.

I am just now getting the car on the road barely have it running to get it around the block but what a kick in the butt. I went more for torque than HP and am guessing no less that 400 of each. The setup looks great in the car. The block bolted straight in and the ignition shelding mounting points were in place. I have not weighted the car yet but if a BB puts an extra 100 pounds on the front then and aluminum block would put and extra 100 on the back. So what? As the cars are from the factory, small blocks are 50-50 with a low polar moment of inertia. For all purposes a mid-engine car.

ken markusa

A csat iron small block weighs between 190-205 lbs. depending on the block an aluminum block weighs 90 lbs. a saving of 100-105 lbs., this is real important if your'e running a World Of Outlaws sprintcar not so important on the street.... bit looks KOOL :D . Cast iron is better for making power because of cylinder bore stability and thermal retention issues the power is really made in the cylinder heads, air in air out an engine is just an airpump. the best combo from a cost view is aluminum heads with a cast iron block because aluminum heads are quicker/ easier/cheaper to port all of the major head makers have a nice selection of CNC heads. All of the above with a n aluminum water pump, intake and radiator make for a nice light package as a side note an all aluminum big block weighs about the same as an all cast iron small block. To get 450-500 hp form a small block isn't hard but it should be a 406 ci motor for drivablity on the street so a milder cam can be used. Now if you are serious about an aluminum block the best place to look for a used one is in the circle track arena the tend to be more prominant thereand engines are changed on a pretty regular basis a lot of dragracing engines are ex circle track motors so they can be pretty used up at that point, but still good for a street motor. To sum up an aluminum motor won't make any more power just really look KOOLER :cool:
:cheers:
Ken

Corvettes White

This is an estimate of my weight saving by going to aluminum v. the stock iron 350 engine that was in the car:

Block 80 #
Heads 50 #
Intake 30 #
H2O Pump. 7 #
Distributor 3 #
Headers 30 #

200 pounds or so total

George