hudman

Oh well. I posted earlier in the week that it appeared that I had escaped any major problems. However, he completed the tear down and found some more problems. The #2 bearing was spun badly. He thinks that has been going on some for time. He says that it is questionable on whether the crank is salvagable, but is optimistic that it can be. He needs to work on it. He is also recommending that I change the pistons as well. Heads are fine and block is perfect. No need to bore it.

So the price is climbing. . . .

Alwyn678

:cry :cry Damn man I am sory for the bad news. But as you stated Earlier. Now you can really build a performance engine to he specifications that suit your needs so look at it as an opportunity.

:D Good Luck

sb69coupe

Sorry to hear that, but overall it's not so bad. At least the block and heads are in fine shape and require no work. Why change the pistons? Is the compression ratio too high or too low?

hudman

He quoted me some technical reasons that I do not want to repeat as I will embarrass myself by misquoting him. They are the original ones, and I was hoping to reuse them. I think they are just worn out and he does not feel good about reusing them. It is not a compression issue.

OHSIXX

I kinda went though what you are doing about six months ago. I ended up spending more than I anticipated; about 5K. :rolleyes:

Ryan77

Just look at it as an oppurtunity to upgrade, that's what I always do when a part breaks, I get a better performing aftermarket one to replace it :yesnod: :D

ImBatman

Hudman,

Before you go and spend the money on the old crank you might want to look at buying a new one. The crank in my 454 was pretty bad off. i bought a new SCAT9000 from Scogin Dickey for $219+S&H. Since then I have seen some really good deals on EBAY for steel cranks. The cost of welding one up or turning it can be pretty expensive. Just my 2c :cheers:

1971Ultra

That 427 will sure be nice when it is done :chevy

Crash Dummy

It's your engine and money, so be sure and ask all the questions you can to make you feel right that things are being done in your best interests. Did they tell you what they were planning on doing to the crank? I would assume that if they are going to turn the journal to the minimum recommended size and run oversized bearings that they will do every journal to make them match in the future in case someone needs to change the bearings again. I've heard of mechanics doing it... a horror story just waiting to happen if so if someone looks at one bearing and assumes they are all the same. If the cost is something like 50% of a new crank, buy one.

As far as pistons... the wrist pins need to be changed anyway and with age/miles the pistons are probably fatigued where pressing in new ones may not be the best thing to do. I've always worked off of the factor that if I see definite wear patterns on the piston skirts where they are slick and scarred they need to go.

Perfomer

If you have to turn the crank more than 20 under I have found it was less costly to buy a crank kit ( includes main and rod bearings) You can tell them what bearing size you want. May have topay more for picking size but can get what you want. I wondered if this was a main or rod bearing . If rod bearing you might have the big end of all rods reworked .


[Modified by Perfomer, 3:15 AM 2/21/2003]

SharkAttack

Cha-ching! At least you can build it up with more HP!

PROSOUTH

I know the price is adding up more and more with every step you take. But If the pistons are that worn there is no way I would replace them and not bore the block. I have been bit with this several times and it will I assure you never happen to me again. I have checked blocks myself and had machine shops give it the OK and still have a knock or slap from a slight taper or egg shape in a bore or something that "Just slipped by".

It's not that much more to have it bored especially when you are going to buy new pistons anyway. Good Luck ! JIM

hudman

All great points-you guys are making me feel better already.

He hopes to be able to get away with turning the crank 10 thousandths, but thinks 20 will do it. He does not want to go any further.

It was definitely a rod bearing, so the rods will have to be resized.

I will push him on the boring issue. He went on and on about how perfect the block was. In fact, given the condition of the pistons, he commented that he was surprised that it was as good as it was. I will challenge him a bit on this. Boring will cost a little more, but if it eliminates the potential of a problem down the road, then I want to do it. Besides, a few more cubes couldn't hurt, could it?