SaltyNuts

I have a new ROD 6-speed on the way that should arrive at my mechanics tomorrow.

I am looking for suggestions on what a good clutch would be. I am willing to pay a good amount, but money IS an object. I am looking to put in a 400-500 hp engine soon, so the clutch would have to stand up to that. It will not be a track car, just a semi-daily driver.

Bob Turner of this forum recommended a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. Is this a the top choice or do yall recommend something different?

Thanks!

SaltyNuts

Forgot to mention, soft pedal action would be preferred.

trw

IMO Center Force is a great clutch.

I bought the CFII for my car. And I love it.

If you are going to drive it "like you stole it" I'd use the dual friction.

I went with the CFII because I wanted smooth engagement with a stock BB.

Hope this helps.
Terry

Chuck Harmon

SaltyNuts,

I'm am going to a McCleod dual disc setup for great holding power and much lighter pedal pressure than the 3200# heavy duty clutch I currently have. Not cheap, and even more expensive if you go for the aluminum flywheel version as I did (~$700: clutches, pressure plate, & flywheel), but I think it will be a great combination! I am told that the clutches should out last the car. Hopefully both the car and the clutches will last a very long time!

Chuck

p.s. If you can find peanuts for $1.35 per pound, how about Deer Nuts?

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

Just under a Buck!
:D

groovyjay

I've got Center Force Dual Friction II backing my 5-speed Richmond and 454 BBC. :yesnod:

GeoffSchultz

Thanks for the replies so far.

trw and groovyjay----what is the difference between a "Center Force", and "Center Force II" and a "Center Force Dual Friction"? I assume the Dual Friction (perhahps the same as the CFII???) can handle more power. Any isea on what the respective power levels the different clutches are recommended for? Does the Dual Friction have a measurably harder pedal feel than the standard (or the CFII)? Any idea on what these different clutches cost, respectively? And, as Chuck mentioned with resepct to the McCleod dual disc setup, can they be had with an aluminum flywheel (I assume this would make the car rev slightly faster, which I would like)?

Chuck---the McCleod dual disc setup sounds intereting. Is the McCleod dual disc setup actually rated as a low pedal pressure unit, or is it just lower than a heavy duty unit?

Thanks again. I am searching the internet now to try and answer my own questions, but would appreciate opinions as well.

Chuck Harmon

Call them. Here is there site, they are extremely helpful and knowledgeable. They don't sell direct to public as I recall, but numerous vendors carry their products. http://www.mcleodind.com/

Chuck

Corvettelvr73

I love my Centerforce DF and it has seen many passes down the track. I would recommend the use of a adjustable pivot bolt because the throwout bearing is slightly shorter than stock and the pedal catches really close to the floor. :auto:

GeoffSchultz

Chuck, thanks for the link. I was having a hard time locating them, I think cause I was searching for McCleod rather than McLeod. Looking into now.

trw and groobyjay---found info on the centerforce clutches. I now know there is a CenterForce I, II, and Dual Friction. The CF I is supposed to offer 30% better grip than stock, CF II 50%, and the Dual Friction 90%. The costs are relatively close---thus, if I do go the CenterForce route, I will likely just get the Dual Friction unless someone tells me the clutch is alot harder with a Dual Friction.

On a side note to all--I found steel and aluminum flywheels for CenterForce clutches. The steel ones seem to run about $300, and the aluminum $700. If I understood Chuck's statement, he got everything (flywheel, clutch, pressure plate) for $700. Thus, the McLeod would seem the cheaper of the two.

Also, I saw that CenterForce strongly recommends against using an alumimum flywheel for the street. Why is this?

Thanks again.

GeoffSchultz

Sorry for the confusion.

GeoffSchultz = Saltynuts.

GeoffSchultz

I just had my Corvette towed to the mechanic, and asked him about his clutch recommendations. He recommended a Center Force---said he has installed them on many occassions without incident.

I guess since he has experience installing them, that's what I'll go with. I still am not sure between the CF I, CF II, or CF dual friction. As I said above, I'll probably get the dual friction as long as the pedal effort is not significantly greater than a I and II. Can anybody chime on on the pedal effort issue or just generally which might be recommended for a 400-500hp engine?

Thanks.

WA 2 FST

The clutch that Chuck recommends is excellent...but probably more than you need. I know guys with that clutch that are running 9s with slicks, and its living fine. Again, its a very good clutch for serious high-HP machines.

However, I'd recommend the CF dual-friction clutch. That's what I just put in my car when the Richmond 5-speed went in. I don't ever plan to run a real sticky tire. I may run nitrous, but it won't be flowing b/w shifts, so I'm not worried about the CF clutch. It should be fine. Very streetable, pedal effort is not bad at all.

The reason they are suggesting steel over aluminum (flywheel) is b/c the heavier steel one stores more energy than an aluminum one. This makes it easier to drive the car around on the street where you may be doing a lot of standing starts. Conversely, on upshifts since the steel one stores more energy if you lift off the throttle (thus decelerating the engine), you now have to make up for this when you engage the next gear. With an aluminum flywheel, you are trying to accelerate something with much less mass and so the motor will rev quicker (which will show up as a gain in power). Once both are in motion, though, on a street car steel (or iron) vs. aluminum is not going to make a huge difference.

Aluminum flywheels are typically used by road racers who are heel-and-toe shifting and need to match revs on downshifts.

Drag racers typically use a steel flywheel b/c it stores a lot more energy once its spinning, which means more force through the drivetrain on launch and on upshifts made at full throttle.

GeoffSchultz

Thanks for the reply WA 2 FST. I am gonna go with the CF dual friction.

Since I do want to try and drive it daily, or at least several days a week (and of course not all highway), do you guys think I should go with the steel flywheel? In other words, how bad is the aluminum flywheel for just cruising around in stop-light traffic? Bad enough to be uncomfortable?

I'd rather ante up for the aluminum one if the difference is not noticible or barely noticible. A guy at the mechanics quoted a 10hp difference for the aluminum one.... that sure sounds like alot for such a minor change.

Thanks again.

Ryan77

The CenterForce dual friction is what you want :yesnod: . With a 6 speed and 400-500 horses, it'll be perfect. This is basically what I intend to run, I'llbe installing my 470hp 383 this fall, along with a CF dual friction, and then hope to add a ROD 6 speed a few months later. I was told by another forum member (can't remember the name) who has a CF dual friction, that the clutch pedal is no harder to push than stock :cheers:

WA 2 FST

From a stoplight, you're going to have to give it more throttle to get the car moving. Since the aluminum one has less mass and stores less rotational energy, it will definitely be "different" than what you're used to. Since the Corvette is not a real heavy car, it may not be a big deal at all. I have not used one in a street car, but have driven some (3400lb Mustangs) and I didn't really like it. But its just different. My mind might change with more time behind the wheel.