? for guys with hookers....
#1
Racer
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? for guys with hookers....
i just had to say that...... :lol: :lol: really how hard is it to install them on a big block? is there any tips, or hints that i should know? what gaskets do you guys recomend? what bolts? what do i need to do to mount the side pipes? i just bought a used set so i have no instruction and need any info that i can get.
thanks
yancey
thanks
yancey
#2
Melting Slicks
Re: ? for guys with hookers.... (ykp53)
I used Ultra Seal gaskets..DOnt know if they`ll work because i havent started my engine et,but i`ve heard good thing about them.
#3
Melting Slicks
Re: ? for guys with hookers.... (ykp53)
I just recently installed them on my big block Corvette. I had the advantage of having the engine out of the car at the time, so it wasn't hard for me. For you, jack up your Vette as high as possible and buy lots of beer. You might even need to undo your motor mounts and jack up the engine too. Just take it as it goes. I'd devote at least a weekend to it.
I did use ARP header bolts that have been drilled for safety wire. But you can use any type of locking mechanism that works for you. I also invested in some nice Felpro header gaskets, but aluminum or copper would probably work too. Just avoid the cheap stuff.
You will have to remove your side rocker trim panels though. You can fit them back on later. In addition to that, I had to do some very minor fiberglass trimming to clear the big primary pipes coming out from under the car. You'll see what I mean once you start tightening the header bolts to the engine. A sawzall works great for this. You can make adjustments without having to take the headers back off every time. Just do what works for you.
You also must remove your triangular sheetmetal "block off plates" on the rear corners of your engine bay, down at the bottom. You can reinstall them afterwards, once you trim them to fit around the larger exhaust system.
You may want to ding the primaries to help facilitate spark plug wire installation. I got by without it, by using 90 degree boots, but VERY hard. Dinging them for clearance would've worked better.
Also watch for clearance down by your steering box.
As far as mounting the sidepipes go, once you remove those rocker trim panels, you'll find slotted holes factory cut on your framerails. Hooker designed their sidepipes to utilize those holes. They also include rubber bushings which I highly recommend you use. Otherwise you'll have very annoying squeaking noises. One of my sidepipes required a mounting flange rebent, very easy with a crescent wrench.
It's really not a bad installation. Probably a lot easier than buying an undercar exhaust system and installing that. By the way, the rear mounting slot required a metal tab bent out of the way on mine (or you can cut it with a dremel tool...another really handy tool to have for this job).
These minor modifications are meaningless, unless you are a purist, in which case you wouldn't be running Hooker sidepipes anyway. And they are easily covered back up when you reinstall your rocker trim panels.
Hope that helps.
This is a VERY loud exhaust system, but it's good sounding. My neighbors don't like it, but they don't know good music when they hear it!
[Modified by Bearcat, 12:33 PM 2/17/2003]
I did use ARP header bolts that have been drilled for safety wire. But you can use any type of locking mechanism that works for you. I also invested in some nice Felpro header gaskets, but aluminum or copper would probably work too. Just avoid the cheap stuff.
You will have to remove your side rocker trim panels though. You can fit them back on later. In addition to that, I had to do some very minor fiberglass trimming to clear the big primary pipes coming out from under the car. You'll see what I mean once you start tightening the header bolts to the engine. A sawzall works great for this. You can make adjustments without having to take the headers back off every time. Just do what works for you.
You also must remove your triangular sheetmetal "block off plates" on the rear corners of your engine bay, down at the bottom. You can reinstall them afterwards, once you trim them to fit around the larger exhaust system.
You may want to ding the primaries to help facilitate spark plug wire installation. I got by without it, by using 90 degree boots, but VERY hard. Dinging them for clearance would've worked better.
Also watch for clearance down by your steering box.
As far as mounting the sidepipes go, once you remove those rocker trim panels, you'll find slotted holes factory cut on your framerails. Hooker designed their sidepipes to utilize those holes. They also include rubber bushings which I highly recommend you use. Otherwise you'll have very annoying squeaking noises. One of my sidepipes required a mounting flange rebent, very easy with a crescent wrench.
It's really not a bad installation. Probably a lot easier than buying an undercar exhaust system and installing that. By the way, the rear mounting slot required a metal tab bent out of the way on mine (or you can cut it with a dremel tool...another really handy tool to have for this job).
These minor modifications are meaningless, unless you are a purist, in which case you wouldn't be running Hooker sidepipes anyway. And they are easily covered back up when you reinstall your rocker trim panels.
Hope that helps.
This is a VERY loud exhaust system, but it's good sounding. My neighbors don't like it, but they don't know good music when they hear it!
[Modified by Bearcat, 12:33 PM 2/17/2003]
#4
Melting Slicks
Re: ? for guys with hookers.... (Bearcat)
Let me clarify something. The fiberglass trimming is not on the exterior of the car. It resides underneath the rocker panel and is always hidden from view. I don't even know why the extra fiberglass is there, it serves no function, but to get in the way of Hooker headers.
#5
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Re: ? for guys with hookers.... (BB wowbagger)
I am using FEL PRO Gaskets and Stage 8 Fastners.
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: ? for guys with hookers.... (OHSIXX)
The sidepipes were easier to install than my old hooker SC headers and chambered pipes were to remove. :thumbs: You'll have to remove the starter (and the clutch Z bar if you have a 4 spd). Since they exit out from under the car at a right angle, they are easy to stick up in there without jacking your car too high. Set down some old cardboard on the floor under the car so you don't scrape the finish while you're installing them. I didn't have to mess with the motor mounts at all. Also, since you have a used set, you shouldn't have any of the fit problems others who have bought newer ones have had. I used Stage 8 locking bolts (so you won't have to mess with them again :D ) and percys gaskets which I highly recommend. Good luck with the install and post pics when you are done. :cheers:
[Modified by Marks69BB, 10:34 PM 2/17/2003]
[Modified by Marks69BB, 10:34 PM 2/17/2003]