TedH

I installed the shift plate for the 700R4 onto my C3 shifter (had the TH350C). I now don't have reverse lock-out and have to be very careful when shifting into neutral from drive.

I have checked the catalogs from the different vendors and they all sell one automatic shifter for 77-82 automatics. What gives? Did I ruin my shifter for nothing?

What issues would arise from using a stock auto shifter with the 700R4? Even with the different shift plate, I can't shift below L2 so not sure what I really gained butchering my shifter (other than making it dangerous).

Feedback welcome! :seeya

PatsLs1vette

all i did was file the shifter plate down some so i could get first gear,works like a charm.

page62

I left my shifter plate alone. Everything works just fine. Only two glitches: 3rd requires the button to be pushed down to downshift from 4th, and it sits right on the very edge of the 2nd gear notch -- but it's OK. And of course 3rd shows as "2½" on the shifter :D

Only real problem I've had is teaching my wife how to use it! :jester

If you're unhappy, go find a junkyard shifter and turn it back to stock.

dman535

It took all of 10 minutes with a rat tail file to remove a little bit of the gate to allow access to the first gear quadrant. I also installed an indicator from an 82. How much material did you remove ?

GWHITE75

Another alternative.

When I ran a 700R4, I left the shifter alone, but did fabricate another shifting arm that bolts to the tranny. I believe you can do the same thing to your existing arm, if you can weld up the existing hole and re-drill it about 1/8" higher (closer to the tranny bolt hole) to change the movement ratio, so the shifter moves the same, but allows you to reach all gears.

TedH

It's sounding as if I should find a salvagable auto shifter and try to modify it with a little filing at 2nd gear to get into 1st gear.

Thanks for the info!

J75

For the 200-4r I used the kit from" The shift works" every thing works fine.

Twin_Turbo

Or you could buy a nice 82 shifter.
I have one lying around somewhere:

It's powdercoated so no rusty grime stuff. It also only needs depressing of the **** to go from N to R & P, all other settings can be selected without pressing the ****. All it took was a little fiddling w/ the little pin and spring.

Marck

TedH

Name your price. I've seen rebuilt units for sale in catalogs for $139.

How's $75 plus S&H sound?

Racer16k

I put that kit in mine when I changed to a 700r4. It works, but it is very stiff from 1st to 2nd. I just figure the stiffness is because the cable has never had to go that far before. I had to readjust the cable a couple of times to get all the way into 1st. I don't think mine will go into reverse unless I push the button.

Gary79

when i did mine i held up the new detent plate (came in the $90 kit i bought) along side the orig detent plate, still in the car, used a pencil to put a couple of marks on the orig plate. then used a file to get a new notch, took about 5 minutes. i got low, 4th and reverse with lock-out still intact, probably the easiest part of this conversion.

GTENIT

WHEN I INSTALED MINE. I FILED A NEW NOTCH FOR 1ST GEAR,DONT WORK ON THE ONE THAT IS NOW 2 OR 1ST FOR THE 350 OR 400. ALSO I HAD TO MODIFY THE CABLE HOOK THAT BOLTS TO THE TRANS THIS WAS THE HARDEST PART GETTING THE CABLE ADJUSTED SO THE REVERSE LIGHTS WORK AND TO GO IN FIRST GEAR. DONT WAST YOU TIME OR MONEY ON A SHIFTER OUT OF AN 82 IT IS THE SAME ONE USED FROM 68 UP THROUGH 82, THEY WONT GO IN FIRST EITHER.