cchristo

I tried to check my rear wheel bearing play today but I could'nt get the U-joints on the driveaxle off. The U-Joint Clamps are held on by two star bolts. I tried the 8 socket but it was too small and the 10 was too big. OK, Obviously, I need a 9, right? Well, my set doesn't have a 9. Off I go to the local tool store. Nope, no such thing as a 9, they don't make em. BS, I think, I'll just go to a better tool store. I get there and get the same answer. I've been to about 6 places today trying to find a darn socket that will fit without luck. I don't want to resort to the ol' vicegrips.
Am I missing something here? :rant:
Help
Thanks
Chris

Schmucker

8 socket? Do you mean 8mm? I think it might be American and not metric.

cchristo

It's a star bolt. I don't think they come in SAE or Metric.

C3 Shark Tank

Chris- if I remember correctly I used a 12 point 1/4 socket to get mine off. One thing I would recommend to anyone is a set of heavy duty u-joint caps from Van Steel, it makes life so much easier. Here's mine

cchristo

C3 Shark, thanks. I thought that might work but I didn't have a 12 point. I'll get one in the morning. The Vanacor caps look great. (Your entire suspension/rear, looks fantastic) I'm putting them on my wish list.

VegasJen

nope, it's a special socket. sucks to be us, huh? not only is it that goofy size, it's got a weird taper to the base so that if you do manage to find a conventional socket that will go on slightly, you'll strip the heads off the first time you put some weight behind them. IM or email me your address and i'll loan you my socket. i'm not giving it away because i'm extending this offer to all '80-'82 owners with our goofy dana 44s.
FWIW, i tossed those bastard sockets out and went to a conventional 'socket head' screw.

Ybnormal

I found the socket at Sears, it is a 1/4" 12 point. Also I suggest installing new bolts when you do this. I went to the local dealer and got all new ones. I had no problems getting the old ones out or installing the new ones with the 1/4" 12 point socket.

YBNormal...drive a vette
www.angelfire.com/al/swhite7/rearend.html

Marc80

Hi Chris

I just went through this. The only thing that I found that would work was a $3 wrench. Get a 1/4" 12 point. I had to grind a bevel on it because the clearance between the nut and the bracket was to small to get the wrench properly seated. Just grind a good bevel on it most of the way around. If you lack a grinder, the $30 Ryobi at home depot with a metal cutoff blade works fine and is good for any other metal cutting or grinding.

The process is a little slow but I don't see much way to make a socket work -especially with the rear main U joint. I have an 80 and the differential covers it (not a removable mount bracket).

Good luck. I did the ujoints myself using a socket to bang them out and then a pipe clamp (Im a woodworker) to press them in with the same socket. It was pretty easy...don't bother to pay a shop.

Paul Borowski

If it's not the smaller 1/4" head bolt, the 4spd AND Gymkhana Suspension cars took that size "E-10" Torx head socket. The automatic AND non-Gymkhana Suspension cars took the smaller 1/4" head bolts-I just don't remember if they are 8 or 12 point. I used a torch for heat as these are very easy for your wrench to "round-off" should it start slipping. This is a very tight area-I'm not even sure you could get enough grip with vise grips let alone enough room for them.

mapman

My 1980 with Gymkhana Suspension used the 1/4" 12 point bolts, they were not torx head bolts. They came off without a problem but I replaced them with the 6 point bolts from Van Steel.

Just be sure to get the socket squarely and firmly on the bolt head when removing them. Look around for a good quality socket, some of the 12 point 1/4" sockets were a POS.

I removed dirt and grease by running a thread chaser through all the bolt holes before re-assembly. No real problems, just be careful.

81vette

I had the same problem. Bought Torx sockets, looked for a 9mm socket. It ended up getting a 12 point 1/4" from Sears. Came right off.

mark


[Modified by 81vette, 10:18 AM 2/16/2003]

914eener

The forum rocks!! I started replacing both trailing arms/bearings yesterday with rebuilt Van Steels and got to this part and thought...what idiot at GM decided on using this kind of bolt?? Of course I didn't have the right socket and didn't want to take a vice grip to it. Did a search and couldn't find the answer and today this post appears. Must be some kind of karma. :D It's definately going to get a regular bolt when I put it back together.

Chris69

I'm always subject to being wrong, but... The '81 came with 12pt 1/4" bolts (1/4" socket). When you buy replacement bolts, you'll most likely receive 6pt, 1/4" bolts requiring a 5/16" socket. The manual tranny cars came with torx head bolts, but it's a different setup since they have larger ujoints. One alternative to cussin' out those little 12pt bolts (if you don't keep the socket dead square on the head), or especially the torx (E-10), is using allen head bolts. With an allen socket, you have lots of socket clearance. Here's a link to a pic (it's on a manual tranny setup). http://www.c3vettes.com/chris_81b.html :cheers:

cchristo

Clutchdust, thanks for the offer. I don't know any other place that you can get help like you can here.
Everyone else, Thanks for all the helpful input. I bought a 12pt 1/4" socket today and they came right off. Duh! :thumbs: :grouphug:

And yeah, this place does ROCK!!

hockey30

I have found all these comments to be very helpful. I to was having trouble with the star bolts on my 1980 corvette. I was ready to take it to the chevy dealership, but read all the comments. I took a 12 point --1/4 inch socket and beveled out the inside and that worked like a charm. I just tapped it on and took my time and went very slow and they came right off. Just another way that may help someone out........Thanks for the help.

bigbird3533

The half shaft bolt heads on my '81, 4-speed, are E-10 Torx. Soaked them for 24 hours in PB blaster. Tapped the socket on with a small hammer to get a good bite before starting to crank. They came off pretty easily, considering they've been on there for 31 years. I found that by rotating the brake rotor by hand (both wheels up) I could position each bolt for maximum access. Had to put the tranny in gear afterwards or else the shaft would spin when I tried to remove the bolt.

pws69

This HAS to be a record.....

loup68

Just a head's up. I worked in an automotive parts plant, in maintenance, for 34 years. Allen socket heads are very easy to strip with an allen wrench. Especially if rust is involved. I would not recommend them. If we were lucky, we could remove one using an easy-out. Lou.

69 Chevy

What? Reviving a 9 year old thread. Apparently I'm the only one who gets called on the carpet for not knowing this arcane 45 day forum rule. And then warned that another infraction will curtail my posting privileges. Harrumph!