CDaniel525

I have gathered some info on this from the archives and emailing some with this transmission, but I am still in need of some information.
This is what I know so far:
I need to get a Ford c6 take apart yoke (i think its part #39120 at Mark Williams Enterprises)
Hybrid u-joint with 1310 on one side and 1350 style on the other (Precision: 348 or SPICER: 5-460X)
Shorten the driveshaft and get all if it balanced or buy a brand new aluminum one at the length i need.
That should cover the driveline.

As far as the shifter, I know i have to close up the current hole, cut a new one for the shifter to come through and fabricate something to the tko shifter that will come up through the console properly. I would like to use my shifter handle from my Hurst Super Comp and weld it one or something to the tko shifter so it looks the same as I have it now. If i can't do this its no big deal though.

The crossmember is my major concern. I want to get the bowtieoverdrives.com 700r4 crossmember, but I have a 4 speed now, so there is no where to bolt this crossmember to. I am presuming I have to get an automatic trans crossmember bracket that I would weld onto the frame like the original automatic c3s.


These are all of my presumptions so far from reading other posts. If I have came up with anything wrong already, please correct me. As far as my questions go,
1) Are my u-joint part #'s correct?
2) Is the part # from Mark Williams Ent. correct for the yoke, and if not, what is it?
3) About how much will it cost to have my driveshaft shortened and balanced? How do I measure how much to take off?
4) Crossmember: What do I have to do to get this BTO crossmember in the car? I heard something about trimming the tailshaft or some of the crossmember to make the TKO fit?? Please tell me about this. If there is no way to get the BTO in, what will I have to do??
5)It is my understanding that the trans includes a speedo gear if I tell them my rear end size?? true or false?
6) Any suggestions for the shifter fabrication will be appreciated, even if its not the hurst handle. Anything thats easy i guess.
7) What do I need for a transmission mount. right now I have a polyurethane, is this reused??
8) I have heard something about cutting off the weights that are on the tailshaft of the transmission? tell me about this please

If there is anything that anyone knows that I have not tripped on yet, I would appreciate letting me know. I really appreciate anyone's help on this as I can't wait to get one of these!! :smash:

Thanks a lot!!
Chris

GrandSportC3

You got it all figured out.. Your part numbers are correct... You probably found them in one of my old posts... The driveshaft shortening should cost anywhere from $80 to $150....depending on the price of machine work in your area...

It is true that they will provide a speedo gear and adapter. They'll ask you what tires and rear gear ratio you are using to provide you the correct gear..

Regarding the transmission mount.. I used a bracket that bolts on the existing MT crossmember... The only thing that needs to be done is to remove a web on the bottom of the tranny that interfers with the crossmember.. It will be a lot more complicated to remove the welded crossmember and replace it with a aftermarket one. The one from Bowtie Overdrives also has to be modified to accept the TKO...


:cheers:

Olivier

BTW - I didn't do the install myself.. I got all the information from the forum and from my mechanic that installed the tranny...

71roadster

I'm in the process of installing mine now. Just got my slip yoke last night. As for the crossmember, you don't have to cut it out or weld anything on. The 700r4 bracket from BTO will make it a bolt in operation tho you will have to 'massage' a couple of the holes in the bracket to get them to line up correctly. Any tranny mount should work, I'm sure your poly one will. The hole in the trannny tunnel for the shifter needs to be opened about four inches to the right. I recommend grinding through the rivets that holds the shift boot mounting plate on the underside of the tunnel to get that plate off rather than trying to cut through it. You can then cut the hole larger with a dremel tool as you put the tranny in and see what you need to do. I haven't pulled my center console yet but suspect I will have to to finish the job. As for trimming the TKO itself, there is a large web on the bottom of the tail shaft. The whole thing has to come off. Trim it as clost to the body of the tailshaft as you can. I also trimmed of a couple of 1 inch square 'wings' from the tail shaft while I was at it. Also, I don't think you can get this thing in with the engine in place. I have heard that it can be done if you lift the engine and move it foraward a couple of inches, but I put mine in with the engine.

Good luck
Chris

1971Ultra

I am considering the same conversion for my 71. However, this seems like alot of work. :banghead:

Why the Tremec?
Did anybody consider other tranny's like a Richmond or a T56? or
Did it really make a difference because mods were going to be necessary no matter what tranny you chose?

Thanks,

Kipp

GrandSportC3

First of all.. the TKO is rated 525 ft/lbs of torque... the Richmond or T-56 only 400 - 450 ft/lbs of torque.. The Richmond 6-speed is much more expensive than the TKO but easier to install.... The T-56 is more complicated to install than the TKO...

:cheers:

Olivier

CDaniel525

Thanks for your help everyone.

grandsportc3, i did get a lot of my info from your posts including those part #'s your posts have been a great help.
GS3, could you explain to me in a little more detail about this bracket that I have to weld to the exiting cross member or a picture of what it looks like?
Im also completely confused about this web that I have to shave off. Maybe this is becuase i dont have the trans in front of me, but if you could explain that or some pics Id also appreciate it.

71roadster, i know that the BTo 700r4 crossmember is a bolt in for the auto c3's but where do I bolt this crossmember to in my manual car? From the looks of the picture at BTO website (below) I can cut my cross member and drill a hole to mount the top bolt (#1 pointing to it), is this correct, or is that a special bracket I need that is used with the stock automatics? And how will I mount the bottom bolts (#2)?
maybe you can also explain what this web is or a picture of the web shaved off? im really confused with that as well.

thanks for the help so far guys.....I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!! but my ignorance is kicking in and not understanding somethings yet :banghead: :lol:

71roadster

Forget that crossmember. The bracket is a small thing that bolts to the stock crossmember. I don't think BTO lists it in there web site but if you call you can definitely get it for about $85. No permanent mods need be made to your car.

Go to the corvette FAQ (do a search) and look in the transmission section for the thread about TKO install and there are all the relevant pictures. When you get the tranny you will definitely see the webbing that needs to be removed.

Chris

SmokedTires

Chris I was in your same position a year ago. My 74 had a 4spd with the welded cross-member. I was determined to have a removable crossmember when I finished this install for ease to removal in the future. I wrestled with the tranny in the past & thought it would be sooooooo much easier if the crossmember was just removable !

You'll see the BTO crossmember I used and how I had to modify it to work. I had to fish mouth the top center of the bar, but welded tabs underneath afterwards to restore any strength that may have been lost by this. I also had to clearance the ends to clear the brake/ fuel lines running along the rails.

You'll see the shifter in one pic that shows the spacer I used to move the shifter over. This still wasn't enough to get it centered in the stock location, so I'd suggest welding the shifter so that it's over even further. If you look closely at this pic, you'll see some of the tunnel I also had to remove to clear the floor during installation. I later used sheet metal & screwed it down to the floor to cover the hole.

In one of the other pictures you'll see where I had to clearance the passenger floor some for the tranny yoke. Our engines are offset so this was required.

Hope this helps :) .

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik..._install_i.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...install_ii.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...nstall_iii.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...install_iv.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik..._install_v.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...install_vi.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...ssmember_i.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...r_modified.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/mik...member_end.jpg

I also had tabs welded to the inside of the frame much like this pic posted On the bottom of the frame I drilled holes and used nuts & bolts to secure the crossmember. I access the bolt head inside the frame through the sidepipe key holes with a wrench. I think I had to cut one extra slot hole for the other bolt.
:cheers:


[Modified by SmokedTires, 8:31 PM 2/11/2003]

GrandSportC3

Here is the pic of the bracket:

This bracket doesn't need to be welded to the crossmember.. It bolts right on... Bowtie overdrives used to manufactore this bracket.. I got it from them. However - they stopped producing this bracket..but they still might have some of them left... Don't worry about the web.. When you see it you will know what it is. With the right tools - it can be removed in a few minutes..

:cheers:

Olivier

GrandSportC3

Check the third post in this thread.. It contains lots of great information...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=274970

:cheers:

Olivier

CDaniel525

Alright guys....im getting somewhere now thanks to the good info!! :)

I think I am going to lean towards getting the 700r4 adapter that Grandsportc3 attached a pic of since It wont require a lot of welding. I want to make it easily removeble, so I am thinking about cutting the cross memberand welding tabs on and making it a bolt on as a few people have suggested (steveg75 in the post i was sent to)

I really like the BTO crossmember and was trying to go that route, but if I can weld on tabs like some do on the ROD6 as well as the TKO like steveg75 said in that other post, i think it seems a lot easier. if i am correct, I wont even have to move the motor at all??

concerning the web, all i can say is i have a sawzall :-d

everyone has been a great help with getting me to figure this all out. I want to know everything possible before attacking this and get all the parts ordered first so I can have it done semi-quick
Thanks again!!
Chris

4DLuvOfSpeed

Hey Chris, what are you going to do with your old 4-speed? I'll be happy to buy it from you along with all the bits 'n pieces needed to swap my auto tranny.

GrandSportC3

If you use the bracked and you decide to stay with your current crossmember.. the engine will have to be moved a little bit forward in order to get the transmission in...

:cheers:

Olivier

GrandSportC3

I would recommend that - if the car isn't too original - to sell the old tranny on Ebay.. That's what I did. I sold my M-21 for $390...

:cheers:

Olivier

fauxrs

They have only one left at this time - I just ordered one and was told it was the last of two in stock - they indeed no longer mfr this part and according to the nice person I spoke with they do not intend to build anymore of them - they are concentrating on their crossmember instead of this less expensive alternative.

GrandSportC3

They stopped making those brackets a while ago... However - they still had some of those left.. Seems that there's only one left.. :eek: :eek: :eek: ... so 74VETTE - hurry up and order one!!

:cheers:

Olivier


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 3:35 PM 2/12/2003]

CDaniel525

SHOOT!! I gotta get on the phone with them first thing tomorrow!!
If anyone here calls them and get it im gonna :smash: their head....LoL
j/k but im definitely gonna call and get it tomorrow