java0881

i am planning to install a melling high volume oil pump.
can i do that from underneath the car by just removing the oilpan,or are there other things i need to remove?
thanks for the info

Gordonm

You might have to unbolt the idler arm and drop the steering linkage a little to get the pan off. Other than that you should be home free.

cardo0

Copy what Gordon says. You'll need to drop one piece of steering linkage so expect to replace a couple a castle nuts and cotter pins. Also needed to drop the starter on mine (a '74 350).
I wish I had know about Felpro's new one piece oil pan gasket. It would have kept a lot of sealer out of my hair. I suspect a one piece gasket would be much less prone to leaks. Never had a problem with Felpro quality.
How do you know you need a better pump? You'll have lots of fun trying to get the pick up clearance right while lying under the car. You'll have to update us on the experience and results. Maybe therse an exception to the old theory "If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Good Luck :yesnod:

Yellow73BB

Yup. Works for big blocks too. I also second the one-piece oil pan gasket idea. They also come with some little dohickeys (technical term :D ) that screw into the block and hold the gasket in place while you put the oil pan up and put in your screws. Keep the dohickeys!

Crash Dummy

Just some info about Melling(or any) high volume pumps.... they are a great addition to street applications, but I would not suggest using a *high volume* pump on any engine that is destined for high RPM's(the drag strip for example) and is using oil pan baffles & oil restrictors. Odds are that this doesn't apply to many and most can get away with it, but adding volume to the oil to the top of the motor on an already restricted flow back down engine is just adding to the possibility of loss of oil pressure. The standard Melling oil pump will work just fine for most applications.

Turbo-Jet

I just did mine on the 454 (well, last spring). It is pretty easy, especially with a 1 pc gasket. Tricky part is setting the pickup screen height.

-unbolt idler arm from frame (2 bolts), lower steering linkage
-remove filter and dipstick
-flywheel cover (stupid tabs)
-starter

Use a standard volume pump from Melling or Sealed Power. Take the new pump apart, measure the gear end clearance with a depth micrometer, and lap the housing surfaces smooth to remove the machining pattern. Use a bit of non-hardening Permatex on the pump to block face. And use Loctite 609 to hold the pick tube in place (or weld).



[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 10:28 PM 2/6/2003]

MYPET70

:iagree: Also, small plastic tie wraps work well to hold the one piece gasket to the pan while putting in place. As you install the bolts, just cut the wrap and make sure it doesn't go in the pan! Good Luck.

Paul L

A few pics may help.









And don't forget the $1.00 key part: the nylon retainer for the pump shaft.




[Modified by paul79, 4:48 PM 2/7/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 4:52 PM 2/7/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 4:55 PM 2/7/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 5:07 PM 2/7/2003]

java0881

when starting the car the oilpressure gets up to about 70 psi but after driving for a while it drops to about 25.so i figured to change the pump first.

thanks for all the good tips :grouphug:

MasterDave

Two things; (1) If you put a hi volume pump in please do not use the nylon sleeve. Get a hardened oil pump shaft with the steel sleeve on it. Less than $20 and it won't break. (2) Your best bet for oil pressure stabilizing is to put main bearings in while your're under there. $40 or so. Might as well to the rods also. Another $40 or so. :cheers:

Paul L

Dave,
That is good tip re the sleeve. The pump shown in my pic is Federal-Mogul. Basically a stock replacement. In the heat of last July at operating temps it showed 55psi on the highway and 35 psi at idle. Quite frankly, for a street car that is more than adequate.




[Modified by paul79, 5:08 PM 2/8/2003]