carbster09

Hello all,

I just got back from Firestone where I got my front aligned;however the shop would not align the back as they didn't have the shims AND they "think" the two rear struts are "bent"? :confused:

They think someone jacked the car or something and bent them. However they look OK to me? :eek: The struts are not straight but have a slight bend in the middle. Are they supposed to look like this? :mad

On a different note how hard is it to change the lower front control arm bushings? It looks to be a b*tch :cry Anyone have any feedback? If I
change out the rear struts should I go with VBP's adjustable set up? Its not alot more than buying all new parts. :(

Thanks

Carbster09

Chris@VetteFinders

I would go ahead and purchase adjustable strut rods from vansteel http://vansteel.com

Yes, replacing the lower control arm bushings in kind of a pain because of the springs being under pressure.

theandies

Bubba got a hold of your car at one point. Your struts should be stright. THis is an old bubba alighment trick when the cams would not have enough travel to align the rear because of worn trainling arm bushings and shims. Instead of replacing the bushings and shims Bubba would align it by bending the struts. Lower control arm bushing are not that bad but you do have to be careful with the spring and you also have to get the bushing pressed out and in without bending the control arm.
John

Chuck Gongloff

Here's another thought on the bent rear strut rods. If you think about your rear suspension, the stub axles and half shafts are both a drivetrain AND a suspension component. Think of the stub axles/half shafts as the "upper A frames" of your rear suspension.

As the stub axles wear in the differential, this shortens the distance, increasing negative rear camber. You reach a point where the eccentric cams of the strut rods will not bring the rear into alignment spec regarding rear camber. The BUBBA solution is/was to bend the strut rods.

If this is your problem, the solution is to replace the stub axles. Hope this helps. Also.....many shops absolutely will not take on a rear alignment job on a Corvette because of the well know difficulty in the removal of the Trailing Arm bolts and shims. You can spend hours/days removing those bolts. Lots of shops will only do this on a "time and material" basis, not on a flat rate rear alignment cost. Chuck

Larry B.

This is pretty common. I've had several that were that way when I got them and the real problem was the stub axles were badly worn. :iagree:

Paul L

I agree. They should be straight. I was quoted 4-6 hours per side, straight time not Mitchell, for the T/A bolts. Fortunately my rear alignment is fine at the moment but that job will come some day.


[Modified by paul79, 9:07 AM 2/2/2003]

GaryS

Good advice from everyone, especially Chuck. In addition to this advice I can tell you that if you choose to have your strut rods straightened versus replaced, you can have this done. I took my strut rods to a machine shop and they trued them using a large hydraulic press. I wanted new bushings in my old strut rods. I know, it would have been easier and proabably cheaper but I like the idea of the original rods going back into the original suspension. The whole arrangement was in the $75 range.
Gary

carbster09

thanks :thumbs:

Man you guys are really scaring me :(

This car I have is supposed to have only ~ 43,000 miles..? I to think that the rear half shafts,i.e. stub alxes are that badly worn and that someone has bent the struts to compensate is confusing to say the least, :confused:

Actually I don't think the alignment is out that much and Firestone have given a price of $55 to fix, when they get the shims.

Any ideas? Maybe the best route is to get the Vette brakes Poly Smart strut kit and make the adjustments and live with it for now? :rolleyes:

Anyhow, thanks for the input and help! What would I do without the forum? :seeya

Chris

Paul L

Why not explore the cheaper route first? In my case the camber adjuster and nuts were seized. If I recall correctly the price was only abut $20.00 for the kit. And it came from a local NAPA.

PS-Or I see ZIP has the set for $24.00.
http://store.yahoo.com/zipproducts/zip-su-113.html


[Modified by paul79, 10:28 AM 2/2/2003]

Chuck Gongloff

I'd run like a bandit if Firestone quoted, and stood by the quote of $55.00. :D Maybe they won't have trouble......hope not at that price, or they'll "eat it" big time. :)

Also, good suggestion to check the eccentric cams to see if they're frozen. Maybe the last alignment guy just didn't know how to do the job right. The strut rods should be dead straight. I agree that a 40K original mile car should not show that much stub axle wear, but you never know. Chuck

ndirishr1

The struts should be straight. I rebuilt the entire suspension on my '68 last year. Mine were both bent. I replaced them with adjustable ones which made tha alignment process much easier.

carbster09

Guys thanks for all the help. :thumbs:

I am going to leave it for a little while and start collecting a few parts. Its one of those situations. If I am going to go to the effort replacing the struts,
I'll go with the adjustable ones. And while I am there, under the car, I'll get at the stocks and rear spring etc....

Its a system afterall its I'll bet its be out of alignment for 10 years, another six months won't hurt!
:chevy

Thanks for all the help and education. You all saved me some big bucks
:seeya