Schmucker

My dad and I cannot for the life us get a shock mount to budge. I was forced to cut the stud off of the one side to get the castle nut off because it was stripped. We tried taking the air chisel and pounding it out that way, no luck. We tried a gear puller, nothing. We tried put the torch on it and hit it with the air chisel. Again, nothing. Then my took his drill bits and has been drilling the mount out. These things just do not move. He is now also trying to figure out a better way to mount that shock. This is just stupid how difficult this is.

mrvette

Allmost anything would be a better mounting situation....

but the easiest thing to do is upon assembly...coat every part inside and out with RTV rubber....and have over with it....

GENE

page62

I'm sorry you've been having such a heck of time back there. Your car must have had a hard life. But remember you're dealing with 40-year-old engineering. The rear independent suspension was new to GM when they engineered this thing...and you're paying the price 4 decades later! :D

Jvette73

I had to beat the livin crap out of mine with a 5lb maul to get em out. I was able to get the castle nuts off ok. I then found another nut(non-castle) and screwed it on about 2/3 way and proceeded to wail away like a madman. I broke a pretty good sweat before they came off. I figured if I damage the mount I would just replace it. I was lucky though and was able to reuse them. :smash: :smash: :smash:

tippi58

Use a jack handle or long bar that slips over where the shock mounts on. A snug fit is a must.

This gives you lots of lateral leverage to break the mount loose.:thumbs:

When you pound is as you have been doing you dont generate enuff force to break it loose as most of the impact is taken up in the trailing arm flex.:smash:

Once its broken loose lots of good pounding as youn had been doing will get it going.

Also take the inner strut rod bolts out after marking position for camber as this takes presure of the outer mount.

There are quite a few good posts about tips for removing the dreaded shock mounts.:D:


:cool: :cool: :cool:

Schmucker

Yeah, and I read them all! So I should remove the camber bolts now? I'm putting on the Smart Struts, so I don't need to worry too much about the camber. First thing I'll do is take it the alignment shop and have them **** with it! So the shock mount will actually turn? I'll have to mess with that. Were they pressed in from the factory? Do I need to press them in after I put a new one in on this side?

mapman

Schmucker,

I used a 5lb hammer on mine, the passenger's side eventually came free, the driver's side did not and I broke the "ear" off the bearing support (about $170).

I sprayed mine with PB Blaster for a week, and when I finally got the broken ear/strut rod/shock mount bolt apart, it was still dry rust.

Put a little baggie around the shock mount bolt / strut rod and submerge them in brake fluid. Let it soak for several days - the brake fluid may eventually work its way into the strut rod/shock mount bolt.

If you are going to break or cut something the shock mount bolts are about $45, the strut rod is about $50, and the bearing support is about $170.

Good luck.

NHvette

Derek,
Go back and read what I wrote in your Ugh!! post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=476137
You don't want to start breaking the bearing support 'n' stuff.
:seeya

Schmucker

I have to replace the passenger side one anyway as the nut was stripped. I'm putting the Smart Struts on so I can destroy the strut. I just have to make sure I don't screw up the bearing support. Or I'll just weld it back together :D

R. Bruno

I used a sledge hammer and the shock remover "tool" and on mine and still ended up replacing both. Call Bairs. They have them reconditioned for $50 a PAIR (or did last winter when I did mine.) The mounts don't turn. They have one flat side and are specific as to left and right sides. You don't need to press them in. Just grease them up good and tap them from behind. They go in MUCH easier then they come out. As others have said, use lots of PB Blaster, brake fluid etc. and give it time to work. Are you pulling off the trailing arms also? Now is the time if you plan to anytime soon. Good luck :cheers:

Chuck Gongloff

Miserable job. Here's a trick. Get a length of pipe. I use one from my floor jack. Put the pipe over the end where the shock mounts. Use that as a lever bar to "wiggle" the mount up and down. It WILL NOT turn, as there are "D" keyways, but sometimes wiggling, along with plenty of PB Blaster, and plenty of heat, AND lots of pounding will get them out.

If you can't, pound them out, you just might have to cut them out. If you break and ear on the spindle support, you've got bigger problems :) Don't feel frustrated. It is one HORRIBLE job. You're not alone here. Chuck

Larry B.

I began soaking (spraying) mine for several days with a product called "Kroil". This is the BEST stuff I have ever used for rusty tight hardware. Kroil works when all others fail. Even with all the pre-soaking I still had a tough time with one side on my 69.

The Money Pit

I antisipated a tough time with mine so I baught a shock bolt remover tool and new shock mount bolts. Armed with a torch and 2 1/2 lb hammer,and a case of cold Micholob,I spent the better part of eight hours on one side.I finished the other side the next day,but had to stop midway for more beer!
Still have the shock bolt remover tool,but after all that :smash: :smash: :smash: ,it don't look pretty!

Jvette73

Somthin about that case a beer that makes the job go easier. :yesnod: :cheers: :smash:


[Modified by Jvette73, 1:53 PM 2/2/2003]