kfede1

I would lke to retrofit my 71 BB vette with power brakes. THe booster unit has 4 bolts extending, but there seem to be no cooresponding holes in the fiewall. Is this as simpel as drilling the 4 holes after making a template, or is there more. I am hesitant to start taking this apart and drilling holes in my Vette. Can anyone provide any knowledge on this swap? Would be appreciateded

Paul in Warren

We offer a direct bolt in kit with a very nice billet aluminum firewall adapter that makes easy work of upgrading to outrageous braking! NO DRILLING !!! Unless you really want to of course... :cool:

kfede1

Thanks, I had actually looked at the kit, and would surely use it if I was running more than a stock ls-6 cam. Looks like your kit would also free up some room as well. Only problem is I can'nt afford the $$s of the kit. Thanks much for responding.

vette69

I am looking at doing this myself on my SB car. I already have the booster & MC. I have heard this is one of the toughest things to do on a C3 because of access issues under the dash. I am curious to hear more info.

RMVette

I'll also be upgrading to power brakes in the near future. There have been several previous post concerning this. As I remember you do have to drill two additional holes for the new booster because they line up differently from the original. You also have to reposition the brake light switch on the brake arm because the pivot point is different. I have the kit but don't have the time to get back into it and I stated this from memory. (Failing as it is....) :smash:

kfede1

I want to thank everyone who has shared there experiences on this. The last person posrted that only 2 holes need to be drilled, and the brake switch needs to be re-adjusted. Do the new holes go low, or do they go highter than the current 2 master cylinder holes? I originally had assumed therre would be 4 new holes??


Thanks!!

RMVette

I think that the new holes are drilled below the existing. :chevy

jwbert

All 4 holes are there. Top two have the studs for the manual master cylinder in them, bottom two are plugged with bolts. You need to enlarge the center hole fiberglass to match the hole in the steel behind it, use a dremel grinder or some such. The clevis pin goes in the lower hole that is now occupied by the brake switch striker bolt. Get a new, longer striker for power brakes, it is bolted into the hole now occupied by the manual master clevis. The top left of four studs, that nut is dang near impossible to get on, a real sob, but it can be done. That Hydra kit sounds like it would be a real time saver. I think I spent about four hours just getting that one nut installed. :cheers:

kfede1

I sort of came to the conclusion that I did not want to deal with the hassles of putting in a vacuum Power booster (Difficult installation, Possible re-installations if rebuilt vacuum booster was not right, etc.). I talked to Hydroboost, and they are offereing a Corvette Forumn "Group" discount, except we do not have to make a group to get a good price, they will just give it to us for identifying ourselves as members. Anyway, he walked me throught the procedure of installing the vacuum unit as well... Appreciate that, but I ordered a Phase II unit because it is a much easier installation and It will clear my tall valve covers, and someday I may want more cam, etc.

I will post the results after I get it installed.

conway62

I am also interested in converting my 71 manual brake system to the Hydratech system. I would like to see instructions before I purchase to make sure its something I can do. Also I just completed a brake overhaul to the car which included a new master cylinder. Can I use the master cylinder I just purchased?

Paul in Warren

Yes! You can retain your original manual spec master cylinder during the conversion! The installation of a power brake spec master does only increase the already high, tight and firm response a tad more, actually the difference is quite negligible. :cool: