ddecart

I know that manuals have the welded crossmember and automatics the bolted. Are there differences other than that? Has anyone converted one into another? A friend of a friend has a replacement frame for his '69 but it's an automatic frame for his manual car. Can they 'seamlessly' be welded so only the most scrutinizing NCRS-type could distinguish the difference?

Dave

NHvette

I don't think so, Dave.
The Auto frame will work fine with a standard - but the welded on flanges
and bolt on crossmember will be tough to pass by an NCRS official as
a manual frame.

I have seen this question come up many times - and I have yet to see any
resolve. Most people are looking to convert a standard to auto. Maybe you
just need to get a couple people together to swap frames. It seems to me
that the auto frames are more popular.

:seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 8:01 PM 1/27/2003]

Larry B.

80% of the 69 production was manual trans. Not true for later years.

The_Dude

Why did Chevrolet make different frames for the different trans options? :confused:

NHvette

Welded is obviously stronger (arguably needed for some folks).
The auto trannys can't be removed without take the crossmember out,
since the bellhousing is part of the case. Thus, the bolt-in version.

Plus, what would be the fun if all the vettes are identical. Gotta mix 'em up.

silvervetteman - by popular, I meant that most people looking to replace
a rotted frame seem to be looking for an auto (leaving options open for the future). Interesting - 80% manual - kinda high.


[Modified by NHvette, 8:48 PM 1/27/2003]

EddyManure

No problem. I recently completed a body-offf restoration. My manual trans frame was weak. Found an auto trans in great shape. Conversion was simple. Everything fit nicely.

WESCH

Hi
Also if you ever want to convert to 5 or 6 speed overdrive, the auto removable frame is beneficial.
For the price, I can tell you this.
A friend bought a 69 small block with original side pipes. Original block, but Edelbrock heads ( original heads came with it ). Frame been completetly restored with all new parts. The body is severely damaged by a sladge hammer. About 20 holes knocked into it all over by a mad husband who got devorced and the judge gave the car to the women ?
So, with other words, a restored car with a bad body and not completely assembled yet, but all parts available.
He paid 8.000 K for it about 3 years ago.
It's still in his garage as is and I don't see him restoring it in the near future.
If it was a convertible, I would probably try to get it.
Good luck Gunther

ken markusa

If you ever look through one of the old Chevrolet power manuals even Chevy recomends getting an automatic to build a road racer as the removable crossmember makes things easier, just need the clutch crossshaft bracket welded on. Of course if your'e going the NCRS route you should look for a stick frame.
Ken :cheers:

P.S. Check with Zip the make reproduction frames and crossmembers they could probably tell you if you could weld in a replacement 4spd. crossmember.


[Modified by ken markusa, 6:03 AM 1/28/2003]

NHvette

Now - there is a valid course of action - weld in a new manual x-member -
not the auto one. A bit of cutting and grinding to get the auto brackets off -
but you do what you gotta do.

ddecart

Yeah, that's the way that I was thinking. It could probably be done such that almost nobody would be able to tell, but to fool EVERYBODY might be a good trick.