Corellian Corvette

Hey everyone!

I posted this same message over in the C1/C2 forum but I figured there would be some big-block guys over here that could help, too.

Anyway this is somewhat off topic - but I wanted to share this story so I'll come around at the end with a question - so please bear with me!

As my '73 Stingray was stolen 2 weeks ago, and I have little hope in getting it back, my Dad surprised me with a unique opportunity.

Sitting in his "barn" is a decrepit 1965 Oldsmobile 442. It's a rare-optioned 400ci big-block with a holley double-pumper, muncie close-ratio 4-spd and 4:11 gears. This car was bought new, by him, in 1965 and he's owned it to this day.

He drove it every day until 1985, when he was t-boned in the back by a dump truck. The car was mechanically OK, but the rear quarter was crushed and he didn't have the funds at the time to fix it. Plus, if you knew my dad, you would know that this accident broke his heart and I think he just couldn't bring himself to repair it since it wouldn't be "original".

So, he let it sit and get rotton for almost 20 years.

Now, in my family the subject of this car is taboo. It just sits in a barn and we never talk about. Last night, my dad called me up and asked me if I wanted it. He said that his way to help me deal with my loss was to get a new project going - and after seeing what I did to fix up my Stingray and restore my girlfriends '65 Mustang, he thought I could tackle this project.

Now, the car is in bad shape body-wise and there is a lot of work to be done. The engine and tranny ran perfectly when he parked it, but I know they will both need a mild rebuild just to get all the crap out of there and freshen them up.

What I know about the engine is that it's an Olds 400ci big-block running 10.25:1 or 10.5:1 comp ratio, depending on what you believe. I know that unlike today the Olds engines and Chevy engines were much different back then.

Anyway, I'm sure many of you here have older high-comp big-blocks that you're still running today. Back in the 80's my dad was running a holley water-injection system that is probably shot by now. Since the engine will have to get pulled anyway, I was thinking I would have to install hardened valve-seats in the heads to protect the valves, but what about the comp-ratio? I've never heard of "lowering" the comp ratio before but is that something I should think about? I know that modern head gaskets are a bit thicker so I will probably get some compression down by replacing those, but are there any other tips for running high-comp engines these days?

Thanks for the help and for listening to my story!

norvalwilhelm

I ran a honest 10.75 compression in a bigblock on 94 octane Sunoco fuel without a problem. I also had normal valve seats and when I had the head redone the seats were fine. You can get away without hardened exhaust seats. They are only required if you are doing alot of towing and the motor is working really hard for extended periods.
If you have a problem with compression any stronger cam will drain off compression.
So to sum it up you can get away with 10.5 compression on the street with a decent cam and you do not need hardened exhaust seats with unleaded fuel.

Solidlifters

Just out of curiosity, what "rare options" are on the car? All 65 442's had 400 inch motors from the factory and either a two speed auto with some kind of difference from a regular Powerglide, called a Jetaway, or 4 speed manual were available. They all came with Quadrajet carbs, so the Holley is a modification. I'd be interested in hearing about the options just for comparison with other cars I'm familiar with. I've got a 65 442 convertible and a 67 sedan. The convertible has the original 400, jetaway, PS, PB, AC & bucket seats/console. The 67 is fairly stripped with bench seat and 4 speed. The 400 was replace with a 455 by a previous owner unfortunately.

As far as the gas requirements, I think you can probably get by with super unleaded if you don't dog it. If you're gonna run it hard you'll probably want to add about 25% race gas to what you put in the tank. I disagree with the contention that hardened seats aren't necessary unless there's towing involved. I've just seen too many heads over the years with the seats hammered. You might get by with it with light driving, but a lot of miles are gonna beat em out. You can buy real lead from several sources and solve the octane and valve seat problem all at once. I know Jack Podell, the fuel injection guru was selling it at one time recently and assume he still does.

You'll find that there are a lot of repro parts available for that car. I'm not sure if there are still NOS quarters floating around for the 65, and the would be my preference over repops, but one way or the other they're available. I just bought rear quarters for my 65 GTO ragtop project and they took a lot of work to make fit, so the NOS would be a better choice if you can find em, even though they'd probably cost considerably more. I'd guess the body shop has 40 or 50 hrs in getting my repops on straight, so the NOS may be cheaper in the long run unless you're doing the work yourself.

Good luck and post some pics. Sorry about the 73. It really sux when some scum bag relieves you of a car you like.