Fastguy

Well, I was able to get a socket on the top of #1 and a socket on the bottom. A little muscle and snapola, off to the next one. I removed the kick panel on the driver's footwell and was met by a round rusty lump that was once a bolt head. I used a utility knife to cut away the bushing and was left with the washer rusted to the bolt. I was able to get a vise grip on the washer and spin it a little. I worked it back and forth with PB Blaster and could get about a 1/16th of a turn each time. After what seemed like forever, I got that one out.

I ground the head off #4 last week so I only have #3 now. The head is a rusted round lump and there is no way to get a tool on it. I removed the access plate and drilled a small hole parallel to the bolt right below the access hole. I got a chisel and started tapping the outside edge of the big washer trying to spin it. I started to shear the washer and then my bulb popped in my light so I quit for the day.

How the hell am I going to get this one out? I already ground the welds off the boxed frame end and tried grabbing the threaded part with vise grips and go no love. Any ideas?


[Modified by Fastguy, 5:45 PM 1/25/2003]

74FLCONV

Can you fit a hacksaw blade through your access hole? Make a handle out of electrical tape and saw away. Might take awhile, but to keep from getting bored, you can pretend you're cutting your way out of prison...

D. Ocean
Miami, FLA

gearheadz

Misery loves company! I think we're in the same boat....check out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=479637

new75coupe

I bought a set of those new stripped-bolt-head removal tools from craftsman and they work pretty good. Of course you still need enough head left for the socket to grab. Worse comes to worse, you can get a big enough chisel to take the bolt head clean off - leaving the bolt in the frame until you get the body lifted.

69bblock3x2

Fastguy,

Use a carbide burr chucked into a die grinder or electric drill and grind the head of the bolt off. If you have one with a long enough shank you can do it very easily through the access hole.

John.

Big Fish

I know the problems you are having, been there, done that. Sometimes you can beat a slightly smaller socket on there and get it hat way. Using 6 point sockets might work if there is enough head left, but it doesn't sound like there is. You could try grinding the head off the bolt with a die grinder. It will take a while, but at least you will still have your fingers intact. Once you finally get it, check your rocker channels in the area of those mounts, mine were completely rusted out, and a real pita to replace. Good luck with your project! :cheers:

redwingvette

Big Fish,
I have seen the replacement parts you are talking about in the catilogs. How do you go about installing them? Mine are shot so I have been putting it off for a while now. :confused:


[Modified by redwingvette, 1:17 AM 1/26/2003]

Fastguy

OK, so lets say I can grind the head off. The bolt shaft will still be in that rocker nut. Once I jack the body up, is there some way to remove that cage nut?

Also, the rear mount reinforcement is trashed. I see them in several catalogs but I am wondering how the hell you rivet them on.

Big Fish

There are at least 2 ways to correct the cage nut. You can either drill out the seized bolt and re-tap the threads (which is what I did) or seperate the retainer from the frame, replace the cage nut and weld the retainer back on. The rear reinforcements aren't a problem either, I used 3/16" stainless steel pop rivets and riveted new ones on. If you want to be factory correct there are aluminum assembly rivets available from most of the Corvette suppliers made for this, but it will be a 2 man job to install. I also used some panel adhesive as well as the rivets to attach the reinforcements. :cheers:

Big Fish

redwing, I assume you are talking about the rocker channels? I used a grinder to grind through where the spot welds held the channels onto the hinge and latch pillars. I also did a little twisting and prying, but finally got them off. I then had to clean the sufaces where the new channels were to be welded with a die grinder and wire wheel. The new channels were installed by drilling holes through the new pieces in locations relative to the locations of the spot welds. I then welded the new channels through the holes to the existing, but not as many, because my welds were bigger than a spot weld, didn't figure I would need as many. This process is called "pocket welding". I used some sheet metal "tek screws" to temporarily hold the channels in place until they were welded, then removed the screws and welded those holes as well. I think the project turned out really well considering what I had to work with, and no prior experience on this type of repair. The body waas supported from underneath the storage compartments and the floor with 2 X 12's and jack stands during the entire process. Edit: I forgot about the seat belt reinforcements. Driver's side was really bad. had to grind the welds off those before dropping the channels too. I fabricated a new one for the driver's side from 12 gauge steel, getting the pieces out from between the fiberglass panels wasn't much fun either. When I reinstalled again used panel adhesive and welded the reinforcements to the channels. There are drain holes near the bolt holes, got to make sure they stay open. :cheers:


[Modified by Big Fish, 8:18 AM 1/26/2003]

RCB69L36

:seeya Steve.

Good to see your post here. I'm going to have to replace the body mounts on my 69 and I certainly appreciate the input.

I'm buying the :cheers: if you're helping to supply the manpower.

Hint, hint.

:jester

Big Fish

Hey RCB, you just got that thing, and you're taking it apart already? Sounds just like something I would do too. Was it delivered? I'll have to see how things go on mine, still trying to finish it up enough to get it over to the body shop for paint, but now my furnace is broke and I haven't been able to get the parts needed for repair. I wouldn't mind helping you if I can make the time thing work. :seeya

Fastguy

Hmm, sounds like I will grind the head off, jack the body and then cut the cage since I have to weld the frame box plate back anyway. And, oh joy, I still have the RUSTY right side to do.

RCB69L36

Steve,

No, I don't have it yet. Man am I chomping at the bit to see it in the drive. There's been a bit of a hitch with the transport company picking it up. However, it's supposed to be picked up either Tuesday or Wednesday and I should see it by the weekend.

However, I've already had a bit of feedback on it and the initial take is that the body support bushings are mostly rotted away, so I think I'm going to have those replaced almost immediately.

Big Fish

Fastguy, welcome to the world of Corvette restoration! Remember, this is supposed to be fun, and no matter how difficult it gets, you will be able to look back and be proud of your accomplishments. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but if your frame back plates are rotted out, there is a really good chance the frame is too. I would suggest removing the body completely for inspection and evaluation, especially in the corners forward of the kickups. You will have a lot easier time dealing with the cage nut retainers and such as well. :eek:

Fastguy

Fortunately, the frame is OK, its just the sand in the cages.:(.

Big Fish

Fastguy, that's great news! Sand is a lot easier to deal with then rust. There are several places where road dirt accumulates, especially in the corners above the triangle shaped gussets and at the bottom of the brackets that hold the pivots for the T arms. In my area road dirt = salt and causes a lot of problems. :hurray: