1980ZZ4

The paint on my car is crazed and needs to be removed prior to a new paint job. I've talked with several paint shops in the area that don't recommend stripper. I've considered bead blasting and can have that done for only about $300, but I'm curious about what the drawbacks of it would be. I would like to hear your opinions/experiences of stripping your cars. Would you do it again the same if you had to? What are your recommendations? Thanks to everyone in advance.

honaker

I know this may sound :crazy: however, i just removed the paint from my car a few months back and was considering the same path you are. I asked the same question and several members suggested that i use a razor blade and strip the car myself.

i know, i know that will take for ever. NOT REALLY. Mine was done in about 18-20 hours of actally hands on stripping.

I was taking a break while working on the engine bay and pulled out my gasket scrapper(basically a screw driver with a razor blade attachment at the end) and tried a small area to see if it would work

15 min later the entire front driverside outer fender was down to the gel coat. very little effort is required except starting your first area. once you left a little paint to get the blade under, it will start to fall off. :thumbs:

It took me about 15-20 blades to to the whole thing. I even had my 15yr daughter and my 12 yr son out there with me. we knocked it out in a day and a half.

the kids loved doing it. They didn't like sandblasting or degreasing, but they sure loved stripping the car.
:D


[Modified by honaker, 2:52 PM 1/23/2003]

no_radio

I have heard about the razor blade method, sounds pretty good, but I haven't seen it done myself.
I used chemical stripper, Captain (some name I forgot)'s Spra-Strip, available from most of the Corvette mail order catalogs. It took about the same amount of time as Honaker described for the razor blade method, but was probably messier. I used old newspaper to catch the runoff and stripped paint ooze. But it was easy, and the car was completely clean as if it had never had any paint when I was finished.
The big issue when using chemical stripper is to ensure that you remove and/or neutralize ALL the chemical prior to bodywork and paint. I used lacquer thinner and a green scotchbrite pad to neutralize mine, and after 2-1/2 years the paint still looks perfect, no bubbling, etc. Others have used water or left some old paint or bodywork in place and have had problems with bubbling and flaking, etc.
The media blasting is good, but more expensive, and I've heard that you pretty much never stop finding the residue around the car no matter how much you clean it up. Also, if the blast operator doesn't know what he's doing he can blow a hole through fiberglass in no time. Make sure they've stripped a few Corvettes before giving them yours.
I vote for the razor blade.
Jeff

rexx78

I have heard bead blasting with the plastic pellets will harm your gel coat. I have heard of baking soda being used successfully.

Find out what blast media they would be using, and find out if it is compatible for use with fiberglass.

If they can promise not to harm the gel coat, $300 would be well worth it in my books.

RCB69L36

Wow, for $300, you be silly not to jump at the chance to get your car stripped without chemicals or killing yourself in the process.

I had heard bead blasting was upwards of $800-1000. Now, I would agree with the other poster that I would ask to see proof that they've done vettes before and aren't going to damage your fiberglass or gel coat (although a gel coat can be reapplied by a professional that will do that sort of work, but it's very exacting).

I'd be curious to know how you did with the bead blasting if that's what you choose.

Re: razor blades. I'd be afraid to even try that. I'd be afraid of gouging the gel coat or fiberglass, but if others say it will work, it couldn't hurt to try.

Again, let me know the results. I'm definitely going to have to paint, whether it's in the near or far future.

Good luck.

:cheers:

1980ZZ4

To All,
Thanks for the advice and comments. I think tomorrow I'm going to try the razor blade. I think this sounds like the safe way to go, however if it isn't effective for me I think I'll try the stripper. I'll keep you informed of my successes.

Thanks again.

Brad

vettfixr

If you want to read up on chemical stripping go to my website at this address http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
Good luck.

ZD75blue

The razor blade method works... 1.99 stripping method

Wear goggles... i made the mistake not to :lol:

Solidlifters

If you use razor blades or steel scrapers you're gonna get nicks in the fiberglass no matter how careful you are. The Captain Lee's Spray and Strip is an excellent product. Put narrow strips of duct tape in all the cracks like door jambs so you don't run the stripper in there. The stripper will get most paints down to the primer and the primer can be washed off with laquer thinner and scotch bright pads. Plastic bondo spreaders make excellent scrapers for removing the softened paint.

Sanding is another poor idea. You'll always change a body line somewhere, whether it's getting something too round, too sharp, or losing an edge.

Incidentally, there has never been a Corvette made with gel coat from the factory. Gel coat is something that's sprayed in the mold of a boat as a final finish. Generally speaking, gel coats will not air dry and have to have either a film sprayed on them to set or be covered with plastic. Of course when it's sprayed in a mold, the covered with glass as a boat is done, it is in an air free enviroment. GM glass is just mat and resin between a male and female mold with mold release agents. The panel as it comes from the mold is the same on the inside and outside. Some people like to put gel coat on a car that's been stripped, but I think it's a terrible idea.

Solidlifters

Incidentally, my LS6 Chevelle was sent to a media blasting facility in Atlanta for paint removal with plastic beads. They charged 700. to do the roof, doors, door jambs, trunk lid and firewall. The rear quarters weren't done because they were to be replaced and the same was true of the front fenders.

gearheadz

There is a pretty healthy coat of sealer primer from the factory that seals the fiberglass panels. It acts to buffer the glass from nicks very well. I did my entire car with a razor blade held in one of those cheap blade holders that can be had at any paint or hardware store. In areas where adhesion is good, use a twisting, circular motion around the inside edge (center of the circle) of the blade. It will prevent the blade from digging in. In areas with less than optimal adhesion, I could use a straight ahead motion & was able to prevent any nicks while ripping off long strips if paint in one motion. I was skeptical when told of the razor blade method but I'm sold now. :yesnod:

SanDiegoPaul

Paint Stripper?? Last Years OSCARS. J-Lo had nothing covering her boob but paint. Diana Ross came up and giggled it :yesnod: saying something like "how come you aren't covered!" :seeya

Solidlifters

I've fooled with the blades a little bit, and watched several other people start with em too. I still believe that with the right chemicals and technique, a car can be stripped and washed clean much faster/easier/nicer than it can be scraper stripped.