OkeeGuy

as you know, there is no off position on the fan switch...
mine runs all the time even if the heater/ac is not on...is this normal?
not having an off position...you would think that it would start spinning when either the heater or ac is turned on...hhhmmm?

1979toy

Runs full time for ventilation.

The_Dude

Yes. I think GM was hoping that people would buy new cars when the fan bearings started making noise.

OkeeGuy

hhhmmm...i dont like it...
i think i will put in a switch to turn it off when not needed...

MotorHead

My low speed does not work because I removed the pin in the connector that feeds it, so in that postion it is off. The other speeds work though :D

OkeeGuy

awesome idea! thats what i will do!

MotorHead

Would you like to know where the connector is ? :lol:

OkeeGuy

i was under the assumption that it was on the bottom of the switch....?

Yeller81

Just put a switch in the power line on mine run a wire into the cockpit and Walla there you be.

chucks

Remove the dark brown wire from the connector that is mounted on top of the A/C heater box. Located on the passenger side firewall. Probe it with a small screwdriver and it will release it. Will still have medium and high speed. Low speed running all the time just pumps hot air into the cockpit. :thumbs:


[Modified by chucks, 8:00 AM 1/22/2003]

Ganey

No. Changed Low to Off many years ago & have posted many times how.

Blower A/C Vent
Low to Off
Disconnect connector at resistor box under hood pass. side near high blower relay & bend down the connector to dk. brown wire & reconnect.

69er

Same scenario for a '69,guys?

lars

Gary -
GM started making the fans run full time following a lawsuit for carbon monoxide poisoning. By keeping the fan running slightly even when the system is "off," they keep a slight positive pressure inside the car. This prevents any exhaust leaks from getting into the cabin of the car at lethal levels. It's a good idea to retain this feature.

Cali,68,L-79

It's a good idea alright however going down the highway (the only time I feel the heat) just about kills me on a nice sunny San Diego day. The controls are off and on cold but heat just pumps out as soon as the car is over 50 MPH. And that's with shorts on. During the summer I disconnect the heater core hoses from the core and just use a pipe to connect the 2 hoses as a bypass. An average 30 MPH trip in my car with tops off is unbearable, put on the tops and whala you have a sauna.

Bobchad

Is this heat coming from the HVAC system or radiating off the floorboards. I have the same problem and its a combination. I put a small a/c thermometer in the top vent and after the car gets warm on a day between 60 and 70, 80 degree air blows out of this vent. I have recently rebuilt the door and sealed the panel in the lower passenger kick panel and plan on working with the air door in the upper cowl to see if I can impact this further. http://home.attbi.com/~jchadwick/ventilation.htm

I also insulated all of the floorboards under the carpet. http://home.attbi.com/~jchadwick/interior.htm

Hopefully these two things will reduce cabin heat. Otherwise I always have to run the air which, I'm happy to say, blows 38 degree air out of an R134 conversion.

Bob

OkeeGuy

thanx Lars...i cant think of anyones advise i would value more...
i apreciate the advise everyone! :yesnod: :) :yesnod:

Cali,68,L-79

Bobchad I am running 67 degrees becuase I'm sucking hot air in somewhere in the ducting, the system was just recharged/ converted to R-134A.

Bobchad

David,

Your car is beautiful/ I've had mine 18 months and sunk about 1/2 of what you have concentrating on the comfort versus performance right now. The mileage is so low, 54,000 miles, that the engine and drive train are giving me no problems.

67 degrees, I'm assuming with the a/c on, is a problem. Evne before I started playing with it I was getting in the mid 40's. What have you done to try and reduce it? Mt first thing was the heater line valve and have been playing with other things as I go.

Cali,68,L-79

Bob well for one I think the heater core door does not fully shut. 2 I feel A/C blowing out of the plenum right below the passenger wiper arm :eek: meaning 50% of the cold air is excaping to atmosphere, 3 I just replaced the tranny inner shift boot where hot engine/ tranny air was coming inbound and up thru the slot on the parking brake and behind the radio. So basically a lot of rebuilding has to be done. Since it is a Sunday car I'm not in so much of a rush.

Bobchad

I had the same problem with the heater door and was able to adjust it when I rebuilt the gauges last year. The manual valve in the heater line helped further.

I didn't have a problem up top where the air comes into the system but did have similiar leaks down below inside the plenum behind the recirculation door in the passneger kick panel. I also bought the new door seals for the recirculation door which was good for a couple of degrees in recirculate mode.

I've got Michael Haynes book and one of the things he stresses is the fact that the C3 HVAC system does not move enough air and will suffer from these kinds of leaks.

I didn't have problems with the air coming up around the shifter but did have a lot of hot air transferring from the drive tunnel. I'm hoping the insulation will have a big impact here.

The way I look at it there are three areas to attack; the temperature of the air coming from the HVAC system, the heat entering the cockpit from air leaks and the radiant heat. I have the first two licked. I am trying to get the HVAC air to come into the cockpit close to the ambient temperature and on the radiant heat. I don't have a probelm with air leaks that I have found as of yet.


[Modified by Bobchad, 8:21 PM 1/22/2003]