VETDRMS

I am in the process of "warming up" my "warmed up" motor. I am looking at purchasing a set of Dart Iron Eagles, or Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads. I was considering going to a solid flat-tappet cam. What are the benefits over a similarly spec-ed hydraulic? Also, who makes solid cams in popular grinds? The maintenance required is of no issue to me, I can set lash as often as needed.

Thanks! :cheers:

WESCH

Hi
I'm not a speciallist in this, but our days, the only benefit to a solid cam might be the hilarious sound the solid lifters make. :cool:
I'm running the original L71 solid cam in my 68 big block and wouldn't change to hydrailic, regardless.
Gunther

soundguy

The main benefit of a solid is >6000 rpm operation without lifter pump-up. If you're worried about tenths-of-a-second for racing purposes, you might want to get one. For street use, they don't really add anything but that signature 'clickety-clack'. :)

Flareside

A solid cam will make more vacuum, idle better, and run to higher rpms than a similar hydraulic. What's not to love? (besides the obvious maintenance)

bence13_33

The neat thing about solid cams is their adjustability. Most cams recommend setting lash to around .022" but you can go up to +.006" or -.006" with the lash so in other words you could lash it as tight as .016" or as loose as .028". The tighter you lash it, the more effective lift and it adds to your top end. The looser you lash it, adds more to your bottom end. The adjustability is nice. And the fact that floating the valves is not an issue. I love my solid flat tappet cam. As for adjusting the valve lash. It's not that time consuming and it doesn't need to be done that often. I think solid cams have gotten a bad rap.

Shock

IMHO, solid lifter cams have been left behind to some degree by technology. Comp Cams makes some excellent hydraulic grinds the are good to 6000 easy with no lifter problems. Personally if I were considering upgrading, why not to a roller cam?

Mike

bence13_33

Mike:
While what you said is somewhat true, this goes back to another thread about cams. If you are going for every last bit of performance, the bottomline is that a solid flat tappet of comparable lift and duration will out perform a hydraulic one. What if you are building a motor to make power beyond 6500RPMs....a hydraulic cam would be a no-no. While roller cams make more power than a solid flat tappet, it comes with a price. The price is the increased stess on your valve train...and the decreased weight of your wallet. To switch to a roller cam you will be looking at about $1000 or so more than a flat tappet cam.

Every type of cam has there own advantages/disadvantages, the trick is to pick one that suits your needs/desires.

VETDRMS

Thanks for all the great info. :yesnod:
I think I am going to go with Comp Cams new XS-274. :cool:
This combined with the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads should make
a good runner.
:cheers:

Shock

You are correct there. I just have a hard time with solid lifters on the street, especially with a 6500 rpm redline. Of course it is personal opinion on what you want and who am I to say! :) I get tired of adjusting valves and such. Love em on road racing cars, but it is a pain to adjust them when they get loose during a 12 hour enduro...

Mike :auto:

Smitty's75

I'm going to replace mine with a stock 1970 LT1 solid,,it was good enough for 370 HP back than, and it's a proven street performer,,besides the nostalgia,,it had a REAL nice sound to it,,!!! Still available through GM.