Smokehouse69

A buddy of mine is interested on what it takes to to bond the front clip to a 'vette. Apparently his brother has a C-3 that he needs to replace the front clip on. He has the clip from the firewall forward and the old back end is stripped off to the firewall.
What brand of bonding cement is the best?
Is it necessary to replace the bonding strips, or can the old ones just be ground down smooth and new adhesive applied to them?
What's the best method to hold the clip to the firewall while the bonding cement dries?
The guy doing the work is a very experienced paint and body man, he just has no experience on Corvettes with major damage, although he has painted and repaired Corvettes in the past.
Does anyone have any pictures during clip replacement?

BeachinVette

I used Bondo, that is what the factory used. check out my web site in my sig it shows how I held mine. Just straps. If you are using a complete front clip like mine it is easy.
I will answer more Q's
Bob

79yellowlt1

I am in the process of doing this, and posted a question several weeks ago. I got some great responses, particularly from phils79. His explanation was more detailed than the ecklers manual, and I am well on my way to a successful installation. By the way, ecklers makes a product called Fusor, which is made just for bonding. (I know there has been some bad blood on this forum about ecklers, but I don't know if anyone else makes this stuff. If you can find another supplier, buy from them, as I agree with all of the ecklers comments I've read here.) Here is the thread I mentioned.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=462618 :seeya

NHvette

Hey Mark - wish I still lived in Rockland - I'd take a drive down to see how
your vette is coming. I will be putting my firewall up soon - then the fenders
from the 75 will be going on. Thanks for posting Phils response.
Looks like I should get the Ecklers 'glass book.

It seems that glass bonding success requires a good dry fit - and don't forget
to 'screw it'.

79yellowlt1

Dave, Where are you in N.H.? I get up there every now and again for skiing.

Mark

Solidlifters

First of all Bondo isn't what the factory used. Although panel strip adhesive is a filler type product, it's actually quite different. The expansion co efficients of Bondo and other plastic or polyester fillers is much different than the bonding adhesive and the bonding strength itself is inferior in the other products. Corvette panel strip adhesive makes an excellent filler for fiberglass repairs also, and is much harder when set than Bondo. I've always used and liked the Fiberglass Evercoat brand of products. Although they apparently have a formula now that's compatable with both SMC and non SMC glass, I've always liked the old 880 formula for the non SMC. If your friend is using SMC this would not work well and the newer stuff would be required.

There are also some excellent 3M products now that are dispensed from a tube through a special gun, similar to a caulking gun, with a mixing tip that makes them idiot proof as far as mixing is concerned.

It's very important that the existing bonding strips be ground rough if they're going to be used, and that would of course be more desireable if they're not damaged. It's also equally important that the new clip be ground in the same way in the area that contact will be made with the bonding strip and adhesive.

There are a number of ways that the new clip can be retained until the adhesive sits. Long reach welding clamps are one excellent method. I've also seen people line the clip up and use several sheet metal screws, pre drilled in strategic locations to ensure that the clip goes back to exactly the trial fit position. This requires removal of the screws and repair of the holes of course. The more experienced a shop is, the less likely the screw technique becomes.

wombvette

Ecklers, does not make Fuzor. They just sell it, like many other parts stores. It should be available at most any local parts store that has body shop supplies. For SMC glass you should use an epoxy type product for the best bond. Fuzor is such a product, but it requires an application gun and is expensive. Any Epoxy product that has puddy consistancy is suitable. Actually the factory used a polyester product which is the same as most body fillers, but has better resin quality. This was just barely adequate as long as nothing hit the car and then it would pop apart. There were also problems with seams and bonding strips cracking. The evercoat for SMC is this type, but again is marginal and the consistance tends to be a little loose for my liking. I think it will do a good job as a filler surfacer.


[Modified by wombvette, 7:45 PM 1/15/2003]

no_radio

Yup, they did not use Bondo.
I also used the Evercoat products on my car 2-3 years ago, and have had no problems with fit or finish. I also used a couple screws while the repair cured, but mine was simply a broken off flare, not a full front end. As someone already mentioned, the most important part is to ensure a perfect "dry fit" before you ever mix the bonding adhesive. Kinda like "measure twice cut once".
Jeff

BeachinVette

Yeah I am sure I am wrong saying it was Bondo the factory used, But it sure smells like it, taste like it, looks like it, sands like it. So I used it. I put my front clip on about a year ago, It is not seperating at all. It was not that difficult to do. I attached one side at a time let it setup overnight with the straps on it real tight. BTW I did not use any screws at all.

Bob

WashingtonRacer

Okay some good sources for Front clip removal/ Adjustment is where? I a driver side issue, wher the front clip up at the seam from half way up to the top begins to bow out. and the gap increases. I want to fix it.

Phil's79

In the front clip replacement for my project, I used Eckler's bonding adhesive. When mixing I added some 1/32nd fiberglass strand (basically powdered fiberglass) to the adhesive mixture prior to adding MEKP hardner. The purpose of this was to "stiffen" the adhesive so that a good 1/4" to 1/2" bead could be layed down. Without this, the adhesive is pretty "runny" and difficult to work with. This bonding material sets in about 10 minutes at 70-80 degree temp, so you have to work pretty quick. Have not had any problems yet but I have not had it on the road either. I was informed of this trick by a body man at ACI who performes all their body repairs. He has been extremely helpful. As for the question regarding drivers side door-fender misalignment before doing any body work, try making adjustments at the door hinges and using less shims on the hinges at the cowl area. If that dosen't work, looks like it grinding and laying some fiberglass to close up the gap. For the bowing problem on the fender you may have to break the fender to cowl bonding, grind it down and rebond the fender. Hope this helps