76Stinger

Over the past 3 years, whenever I come up with a problem or need to have something done on my 76, I've come here for advice before I attempt it or pay "Bubba" to do the work. Needless to say, replies here have been 99.9% accurate and have saved me bunches of money. So Thanks to begin with.

New issue - local mechanic who specializes in brakes and has been working on my car thinks I may need my wheel bearings looked into. He admits it is definitely not his specialty and doesn't want to tear into something without knowing if he can fix it right or it is beyond his capability. He is just a local kid with a brake shop and has done me right so far and I appreciate his candor and honesty.

Question is how much of a job are wheel bearings and is this something that should be fairly inexpensive or should I go ahead and mortgage the mule and house beforehand?

On a lighter note - go Titans! I'm writing this early in the morning as my wife is a hard-core Raiders fan. Seems she thinks Bill Romanowski is "da bomb." Whatever!

STW
Robert
76Stinger
:seeya

Larry B.

I assume you are talking about the rear bearings.... It is a fairly difficult job that requires some special tools and knowledge to do. Even then they can be tough. Also when you do them it always runs into more than you expect. U-joints, bushings, rubber parts and possibly worn side yokes and rusty trailing arms. You end up spending a lot more than to plan on. I am not trying to scare you but just be ready because once you get into it there are no shortcuts or cheap fixes. There are several vendors that sell new or rebuilt trailing arms. That makes the job easier but more costly. There is a lot of info on the topic so read up so you can understand what is involved. LOts of guys here on the forum have done them. Check Van Steel's web site. I don't know the URL off hand. I just found the link http://www.vansteel.com


[Modified by silvervetteman, 6:37 AM 1/11/2003]

Frankenvette

The front bearings are easy. I had never even looked at a bearing before doing the fronts. You can purchase a bearing grease packing tool at autoparts store for about $10.00. Looks like two cones but works great a pressing the grease into the bearings without a huge mess. I used Amsoil racing synthetic grease. I used my Haynes and GM shop manuals for instructions. I've never done anything to the rear bearings and as posted is more involved and will most likely require a trained mechanic/shop.

GTR1999

If you're talking about the front then any experienced mechanic should be able to replace them,but you can do it yourself.
If you're talking about the rear then I wouldn't let a guy who already expessed doubt touch them. I spoke to many a "mechanic" over the years that had no clue what .001" was or meant! a machine shop would be a better choice but still a chance. If you're only going to do one car then remove the spindles or arms and replace them with some from either Bairs or Van Steel. The end play in the bearings should be .001-.0015" the "book" says up to .008" is ok. Talk to anyone rebuilding these and they'll tell you they set them up to .001" Then you have to check the rotor runout as well. Look through the procedure in the GM service manual and think about it before making a decision.
Gary

mapman

Frankenvette,

I presume you mean the rear bearings. The special tools required are expensive enough that, if you are not going to do several cars, it is less expensive to send the bearing out to a specialist.

Are the bushings on your trailing arms ok, or do they also need to be replaced? If the bushings are ok, then you don't have to remove the trailing arm, and you can just send the bearing assembly in for R&R.

You might get a copy of the Van Steel suspension video. It gives a step-by-step disassembly and reassembly of a C3 suspension. (The suspension of the car in the video came apart a LOT easier than mine did.)

You want someone with lots of experience to do your rear bearing repair.

The front bearings, in contrast, are much easier to replace. Always replace the entire set (bearing and race). Look in your shop manual for pictures of various bearing problems.

You need a brass drift to tap out the old races - work the race out of the hub with a hammer moving the drift from one side to the other side of the hub.

Install the new races with a bearing race installation tool (I think you can get a free rent at Autozone).

zwede

I've done the rear bearings and didn't need any special tools. Besides hand tools, a hydraulic press and a dial indicator with a magnetic base is needed. I didn't think they were hard to do.

magicv8

:iagree: I agree with zwede. I have done mine a few times in the last 15 years. I even mounted my dial indicator (now cheap at Harbor Freight) to the inner spindle flange on a home made bracket - no magnetic base.

RTFM - Read The Factory Manual - it tells you how to do it. Getting rusty parts to come off can be a PITA, but you can spend a week in FL on the money you save.


[Modified by magicv8, 1:42 PM 1/11/2003]

Shark Racer

Vansteel offers a service, which is the way I'm probably gonna go. If you want to go to Van Steel's website, it's just as straightforward as lingenfelter.com .

Looks pretty simple, and they do all the hard work. Show it to your mech, should be very basic for him, and his shop can get the setup from van steel w/o a core charge. (They just have to send your old ones back.)

-Steve

PS IM me if you want the link.

Gary79

i did mine without any special tools, rented a 9 inch gear puller and tapped the outer bearings off the spindle with a tap hammer and a 3 different chisels, slow job, as you "walk" the bearing up the spindle. i used a local machine shop to check the tolerance, set mine at .003". some locals said set them loose to let the grease flow thru the bearing, that .001 is too tight and doesn't let the grease flow. well, i don't know who is right or wrong so i set mine in the middle. i would recommend buying or borrowing the $100 bearing set up tool. this saves you from assembling everything only to find the tolerance isn't right, so you have to take it all apart, re-shim and put it back together. PITA. i won't do another one without the bearing set up tool. if the rear suspension & rear drivetrain in your vette hasn't had much attention ( and most of the time they haven't) be prepared to spend BIG $$$$; u-joint's, rear bearings, differential, and brake calipers can eat a hole thru your wallet. that's why i did most work myself, except for differential rebuild, which i took out of the car and handed to a good local mechanic, still cost $600($200 rebuild kit,$ 200 rebuilt axle yokes, $200 labor). good luck!