Schmucker

I'm going to pull off as much of my rear suspension tomorrow as possible. I somehow got a Saturday off, so I thought it'd be a good way to spend it. I'm removing the spring, shocks, struts, and trailing arms. Problem is I don't know the best way to jack the car. Should I leave the front down with the wheels blocked, or put all four corners on jackstands? Where should I put the jack? I figured the best way would be to put it on four jackstands because I have to get a jack in there to remove the tension of the spring (as if there is any, it is almost going down in the middle) so it is probably better to have the car level. How should I go about doing this? Do I jack the car on the rear differential and the front crossmember? Should I put the car on two jackstands at their lowest setting first, then jack the other end up to put jackstands at the highest setting in, then go back to the first side and jack it up to get those stands up to their highest setting? What is the best way! I figured I should also unlatch my T-tops since I'll probably cause a lot of flex. Any tips on removing these parts would also be helpful, but I think I have it covered (of course I'm sure I'll get stuck somewhere and need the CF help).
Thanks guys :cheers:

John D.

I personnely don't like to keep car for any lenght of time on two stands. I would rather have it on 4stands.
I bought a kick lift for mine which is really a nice easy way to get car off ground about 20 inches or better. (Mine is on it right now with front suspension removed).
They show lifting point for car just rear of front and rear wheels on each side. That is where I would put jack stands.
I think lifing car by front cross member and seting jacts at low setting then moving to rear and lifting at dif to set rear stands would be O.K.
Then go back and rise stands to desired height.
Again I bought kwick lift to just drive car on and jack rear of lift and set legs in place to keep from putting it on jacks.
I just want to keep flex down on frame and body.
Just **** about that.
Hope I helper some. Aghain just my thoughts and they may not be correct. :seeya :chevy :flag

88'Cubka

I'll brb. For the past 2 days I have been tearing the rear suspention off. I'll take a picture right now. :)

88'Cubka

Bleh, forgot I canceled my host. I'll e-mail it to you.

88'Cubka

You got mail!

NHvette

Whether you use two or four stands, the most challenging part will be the
spring removal. Try to find a tech paper or something to follow. At least
use a big C clamp on the spring near the end. This is to help the jack grab
the spring. With out this, the weight of the spring will make the jack slide off.
That's when things start flying and people get hurt.

Difficult items will be the shock mounts that need to come out for strut removal, rearend crossmember, and trailing arm bolts.

Good luck. :seeya :smash:

jerryp58

"Where should I put the jack?"

This might help for jack & jack-stand positions... http://users.erols.com/jerryp58/corvette/jackpts.jpg

"Should I put the car on two jackstands at their lowest setting first, then jack the other end up to put jackstands at the highest setting in, then go back to the first side and jack it up to get those stands up to their highest setting?"

That's the approach I take. The frame is pretty stiff and the rest of the car wants to move when you jack up any one point. No matter how you do it, check all the jack-stands after each change and make sure they're all squarely (is that a word?) on the ground.

" I'm removing the spring, shocks, struts, and trailing arms. "

That's a lot of weight. I'd check the jack stands every now and then and make sure that the weight hasn't shifted too much that the car can teeter on the front stands.

Definitely clamp the spring.

I was lucky and didn't need it, but there's a shock bar removal tool (basically a capped nut that lets you bang the thing out).

If you're not replacing U-joints, then you may want to wrap the two freed cups on each half-shaft U-joint with tape so the cups don't come off and spill needle bearings all over the place.

Trailing arms :eek: Have you checked previous threads on removing the front bolt? A saws-all seems to be the popular tool of choice to do that job :eek:

It's Saturday now, but hopefully, you've been spraying the heck out of everything with some type of penetrating fluid (that can really make a difference with some bolts/nuts.

Good Luck.


[Modified by jerryp58, 8:33 AM 1/11/2003]

71'AirStrike

4 jack stands are the best way to go. the rear end suspection will take some time. since the car will be up in the air, its best to jack the car solid. be smart, be safe. here is how I did my car 3 months agao for a rear end rebuild.

I suggest to use the hydro jack on the front x-bar to support the engine. when you do the rear spring use the hydro jack to lift the spring and remove the nuts. when completed with the rear spring put the jack back on the front x-barr.
I disagree, by keeping the t-tops in place it will add ridigi.. regidiety... ridigetness.... -STIFFNESS to the body and add to the strength of the frame. Also only open your car door when necessary, otherwise keep them closed.

as for advice on removing:
front t-arm bolts: mine were eazy (whew) many are not. do a search for help, I think praying also helps :lol:

Use air tools, if you dont have them borrow them. with this job air tools are a must.

A 2 arm gear puller. I used the 2 arm gear puller to remove the lower shock absorer bolt. (ok, ok, that may not be the right tool for the job, but hey it worked!)

while the t-arms are out. serisouly consider having bolth of them rebuilt. (berings packed, splines re done ect.)

re build the u joints, they are cheap to have done, and you get so much for it.

good luck
cheers
chad

foundvettelifeisgood

"I think lifing car by front cross member and seting jacts at low setting then moving to rear and lifting at dif to set rear stands would be O.K." :nonod:

No offense, but I've read numerous warnings that you should never lift a C-3 by the differential.

MN-Brent

Regarding the T-top situation, your best bet is to remove them. Remember they're glass. Glass cant stand up to flexing steel. You run the risk of cracking some very expensive T-tops. Take them out. You might even want to crack open your doors- although thats probably overkill.

As for 4 jackstands, I do even think this is enough. I would have these four in place as Air Strikes but also add 2 up front of engine and 2 behind rear wheels for 8 total. Think about how much wrenching you might be doing on those trailing arms. If you dont have that many jackstands, maybe you can you your floor jack as an additional support closer to the area that you are working.

I know this may sound like expensive overkill, but whats the cost of a set of jackstands vs your head or rib cage or a pair of legs. Hot Rods arent much fun if they lead to your demise.

I already have 4 jackstands and 2 floor jacks and will probably pick up 1 more set of jackstands before I do my full brake overhaul this spring.

Man I wish it was spring.....

Best of luck

Brent...

C3 Shark Tank

This should help you out a bit, the diff is different but most of it should be close. Rear Suspension