TedH

I damaged my TV cable when preparing to re-install my 700R4. Bow-Tie has a new patent-pending TV cable setup that has just been completed for the Q-jet 1905 carburetor (see picture below of carb linkage). The kit sells for $95 and includes the cable, carb base plate adapters/braket/gaskets and the carb linkage adapter and installation templates. The cable allows for adjustment both on the carb linkage adapter and at the cable mount on the carb to better fine-tune shift points and trans behavior. I'm psyched!

Will advise on progress of the installation once I have the trans back in the car and ready to install the kit (I had some leaks since resolved)

:seeya

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How much did you end up paying to have the tranny resealed?

TedH

I had to replace the selector shaft and seal. The shaft was scored and the seal was damaged from incorrect installation. Bow-Tie provided the replacement items free of charge. I installed them Weds evening. I'm putting the trans back in beginning Sat AM.

Smokehouse69

Ted,
I installed my own TH400 in my garage without a tranny jack, with very little trouble. Here's the procedure I used, I don't know if it is the right way to do it, but it went in just fine.
I took two 1"x3" boards and sat the tranny pan on them on the floor of the garage next to the car.
I had the front wheels off and the car on jack stands just about as high as it would go. I was able to slide the tranny (on the boards) in through the wheel well and back in position under the car.
I then lifted the rear of the tranny up and slid it on top of the crossmember, I then took some rope and tied the tail shaft housing to the cross member, so it wouldn't try to slide forward while I was wrestling with the front of the tranny.
At this point the angle on the front of the tranny was pretty steep, I did not have the torque convertor in the housing yet, so I used some wooden wedges, to prop up the front of the tranny until I had enough clearance to slide in the torque convertor.
After I had the TC in place I took some heavy monofiliment fishing line and tied it across the front of the housing just in case the TC tried to slide out (it was locked in place so it didn't move)
At this point I had enough room to get my small roll around floor jack under the front of the tranny, behind the torque convertor, and jack the tranny up.
After I got the front of the tranny up to height (I had to roll it back a little, so I had to loosen the rope on the back so I could move it back, to clear the two alignment ***** on the back of the engine.)
After I had it high enough, I carefully rolled the jack forward, until the alignment dowels slid into place.
Then I put one bolt in the rear mount and removed the rope on the rear crossmember.
Then it was a simple matter of bolting the tranny to the back of the engine.
One warning, there are two bolts at the 10 and 2 o'clock postions that you shoud have in the bell housing when you jack it into position, I used a little masking tape to hold them in place. There isn't enough room to get them in at the firewall after the tranny is up in place.
When you hook your shift linkage up, follow the procedure in Haynes, Chilton or GM Chassis Service manual. The procedure is pretty much identical in all the books, it insures that you get the shift linkage timed correctly. If you just slap it on there, without verifying that you are in the right gear your shifter will be all messed up.
I hopes this helps you a little.

TedH

I employed a slightly (well, perhaps more than slightly...) unorthodox method for installing my 700R4. On my first attempt at installation in Nov 2001, I spent an entire Saturday trying to prop the transmission up on wooden blocks with sufficient height to get my floor jack under the pan area of the trans. The converter kept slipping off the front and boy was that heavy (impossible to put it back on the front shaft when on my back with arms extended overhead. Sunday came and I was no further than when I started on Saturday (except for abrasions on my hands and arms from the wrestling that I had been doing on Saturday). I spied a set of tie-down straps that I had used to haul a motorcycle in the back of my pickup in days past (the pickup is no longer in my possession). I got the idea of attaching the hooks of two tie-down straps to the front coil springs on the front suspension. The other ends I put through the bolt holes on either side of the bell housing. With the trans on a piece of flat re-enforced plywood with the front of the plywood propped on my floor jack, I slowly cinched the tie-down straps. The trans and plywood gradually slid forward until both were resting level on the floor jack. I then slowly jacked the floor jack up while maneuvering the transmission/tc into position against the engine. Once I had it where I wanted, I attached the four lower bell housing bolts, then the two top bolts and then installed the crossmember. Then the torque converter and the rest of the external attachments (TVS, cooling lines, shifter, etc.).

Smokehouse69

That's even more inventive than my method, I'll have to remember it the next time I install a tranny!

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You guys are way too scary! :eek: But I know who to call if I ever decide to Re&Re my leaker. :leaving:

Ken73

I pulled my 700-R4 with the motor up through the top.. makes things a lot easier... ;)