page62

My adjustable rear strut rods came in today. So I'll add it to my project list. But I was wondering if there are any "gotchas" I can expect during this process? :smash:

Doc Rebuild

Sir,

Just curious, since they are adjustable - don't they come with some instructions?

Geoffrey Coenen
NCRS #2473
NCM Lifetime #105
Precision Valley Corvette Museum Charter Member #20 (I think)
Vettehead #18-1
Retired #1 56, 63, 67, 68, 68, 69, 75, 99 and I want more! :D

page62

Good question...I bought them from one of your competitors and would have expected some info to go with them.

But I'm a pretty bright lad so I should be able to put all the parts together until it seems right. But I thought I heard bad things about removing the shock mounts or something...

The Money Pit

Order the shock bolts and a remover tool.If your a "lucky guy" like me,you're going to need them. :smash: :smash: :smash:

Doc Rebuild

Sir,

Often when parts are re-sold, the instructions are “lost” in an effort to disguise the actual source. I believe those adjustable struts are only manufactured by one supplier in Florida, i.e. VB – however I am not 100 percent certain. I never handled aftermarket items like those adjustable struts, but one of my C3’s has a fiberglass leaf spring when I purchased it and it really seems to provide a nicer ride.

If the “L” shock strut support shaft is severely corroded and frozen in place you will need the “shock knocker” tool to prevent damage to that shaft. Too much brute force and you risk breaking one of the ears off the cast iron spindle support. Heat, penetrating oil and patience are three other main ingredients necessary for removal of stubborn pieces.

Geoffrey Coenen
NCRS #2473
NCM Lifetime #105
Precision Valley Corvette Museum Charter Member #20 (I think)
Vettehead #18-1
Retired #1 56, 63, 67, 68, 68, 69, 75, 99 and I want more! :D

Jim Martley2

As a last resort, a "sawsall" comes in handy to remove the shock mount. I have had some over the years that the shaft was rusted SOLID int the bushing and NO amount of pounding would budge it. Get some GOOD bi-metal blades and make sure to cut ONLY the strut & shaft!!

page62

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not too petrified because I recently replaced my shocks, which only required some PB Blaster and a little muscle too loosen the nuts.

But now I have air tools! I wonder if an air hammer with a blunt-nosed attachment would "persuade" the shock mount out of there...

Smokehouse69

Page, don't try hammering on the end of the threaded portion of the shock mount. Follow Doc Rebuilds advice and order one from someone. I was able to borrow one from a neighbor, even with the knocker it took PB blaster and a 5 lb. maul to drive it out.

mapman

:iagree:

I broke one of the "ears off the spindle support ($170) when I was removing the trailing arms for rebuild. The nut holding the shock on came off easy - however, the shock mount bolt and the strut rod were rusted together.

I sprayed PB Blaster on them for several days prior to attempting to remove the shock mount bolt, but when I finally got them apart (after breaking off the "ear") the bolt and strut were dry.

Next time (on a car that has not been apart for some time) I will try puttting a little baggie around the shock mount bolt/strut rod end/spindle support "ears" so that I can immerse them (for days) in some penetrant like brake fluid.

If you are going to destroy something, the bolts are only $45. Breaking the spindle support would involve LOTS more $$$.

page62

OK. Step 1: Remove shocks and and nut and apply PB Blaster. Wait.
Step 2: Apply PB Blaster. Wait.
Step 2: Hammer and wooden block. Truly gentle stuff. If no, proceed to step 3.
Step 3: Apply PB Blaster. Wait.
Step 4: Shock knocker and hammer. If no, proceed to step 5.
Step 5: Baggie and brake fluid (or similar). Wait.
Step 6: Return to step 4.
Step 7: Call men in white coats with butterfly nets! :crazy:

Anybody around San Antonio got a shock knocker I can borrow?

MIKER

Search the Corvette Forum archives for "shock mounts" and you will find a lot of info.

ShocK mounts POPPED right off! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=186392

VB&P Rear Strut Rods (page62)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=460547
Contact VB&P for tips regarding strut rod orientation. Also ask them if you should grease the threads. I didn't grease mine and one of them gaulded really bad after being adjusted only a few times.

Bobchad

Just buy a couple ofd extra nuts and hammer on these. Do not hammer on the castle nut as you can damage it and then will have to order the $45 kit to get the nut. Don't ask me how I know.

johns73

Hello the adjustable strut rods have an "r" and "L" make sure they go on the correct side. please don't ask me how i know good luck. :)

vettfixr

You've already got good info on the shock mount so I'll give you a tip on the alignment. Once you've got the struts installed take a level and put it against the wheel portion of your rear wheel. The top of the wheel should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch tilted in. You can do this by taping a 1/8 inch piece of wood to the top of the level and then go for plumb. If you want complete instructions go to VB&P website and look at the instructions. Here's the link: http://www.vettebrakes.com/

TedH

When I replaced my OEM struts with the VB&P struts, I found that supporting the trailing arms/spindles in a 'level' attitude in reference to the strut mounts on the differential helps during both removal and installation. If the leaf spring makes this difficult, you can separate it from the trailing arms during the strut removal/installation.

Don't forget to apply the correct grease to the urethane bushings on the strut rods; may 'squeak' and wear more quickly otherwise.

jerryp58

I did mine too long ago to provide any helpful install hints, but, FWIW, I recommend telling the alignment shop (or you, if you align it yourself) to use loc-tite on the lock nuts (that hold the end-links in position). Maybe they just didn't tighten them up correctly, but the first time I had my car aligned after installing the adjustables, the lock nuts worked loose and the strut started screwing out :eek: Luckily, I noticed it before it got too far and had them use loc-tite on the lock nuts. No problems since then (wood :smash: ).