Biker

I need to install a complete parking brake system on my '81. I have a manual, but what I want to know is if I can expect any difficulties? I need to install everything from the cables to the springs and brake shoes. Please let me know what I'm getting into.

72GACRZR

http://zip-corvette.com/techarticles/pb/pb.htm

This might give you a clue. :seeya

VegasJen

me wonders about your sanity. spending all that money and time for something that still won't work :confused:

Biker

Henry, thanks for the link. Zip Corvette's procedure seems more straightforward than the process in my Chilton's manual.

Clutch, why wouldn't the parking brake work if properly installed? My '81 is a 4-speed. The parking brake is essential because my driveway is inclined. I can't allow my engine to run in my driveway unless the wheels are blocked. This has become a real pain over the past couple years.

The_Dude

Because they're known to be pretty worthless no matter what. Mine won't hold my car even on the smallest inclines. Maybe with all new parts it will work better. :cheers:

groovyjay

Mine works like a charm. You should be ok with replacing everything with new parts :yesnod:

72GACRZR

Good luck Biker. The parking brakes are known to be non-working by some, but you can get them to work just fine, according to others, so I guess it's how much time you send and how good you build them. Since you are starting from scratch your's should end up working right. Mine need to be rebuilt, but they aren't high enough on my list yet. :seeya

PS: One big problem you can run into is if the retaining pin has been removed from you car. I can't find the old threads that told about it , but if it's gone, you have to pull the spindle(I think) to get a new one in.


[Modified by 72GACRZR, 4:26 PM 1/8/2003]

adam

Turning the holding pins in place is a small amount of pain...

I liked the idea of using a piece of cardboard as a template for the drum...
Measure the inside diameter of the drum (in several places) and cut out a
circle in the cardboard. Now use this as the drum and adjust the shoes until
they touch the cardboard. Then back them off...

BTW, autozone, etc. places don't carry the ebrake shoes. Get them with
the kit or from GM...

Good luck, let us know how it goes...

Biker

72GACRZR, what retaining pin are you talking about?

Gator81

When I traded my old trailing arms in on rebuilt ones with new bearings and rotors from Van Steel, I had them put stainless steel park brake hardware in. Hopefully, that will prevent any future hassles with the park brakes on my '81.

It took quite a few tries before I got the new park brakes properly adjusted to where they would hold the car satisfactorily. I think I was just too fearful of adjusting them too tight, and I just had to keep pulling the wheels and cranking them down another couple of clicks each time. It's a hassle.

Good luck! :seeya

72GACRZR

I hate when work gets in the way. The pin is one of the anchor pins, you can see it in picture 13 and they mention it in picture 17.

OK I found some more
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=437722

and this how to... http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html

they were in this one
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=439392


All 3 may enlighen you more.

And I was wrong on the spindle, it's the caliber mount that blocks it. I think you will understand after all these.

Hope this helps.


[Modified by 72GACRZR, 6:20 PM 1/8/2003]


[Modified by 72GACRZR, 6:21 PM 1/8/2003]


[Modified by 72GACRZR, 6:24 PM 1/8/2003]

cessh

Start out by getting your vet's rear end in the air and stable. Make it far enough to comfortably work on the rear wheels and to be able to get under the middle of it to inspect and work on the cables. Pull the rear wheels and take off the calipers and wire them up out of the way with a block of wood between the pads. Drill out the rivets (if they're still there) in the drum part of the disc and take the drum/disc off to access the parking brake shoes and components. (The little hole in the drum between the studs will allow you back off the shoes to remove the drum.) Watch how the brake parts work make note how they come off because they have to go back the same way (if they're correct to start with). Use paper and pen to make yourself a diagram for reassembly if needed. Clean and inspect all parts and replace any damaged or warn parts. Best to start out with new shoes at least. Make sure cables move freely with little resistance as possible. Lightly lube all moving parts and reassemble. Don't worry about the drilled out rivets. They didn't need to be there anyway. Adjust the shoes so the disc/drum will just slip back on. If it's got a large lip on the drum you may want to have it turned. Adjust the shoes through the small hole in the drum until they start to drag. Note closely the amount of resistance it takes to turn the drum with and without drag. (Use a pry bar to between the lug studs to turn the drum and feel resistance.) Start adjusting cables with the hand brake on about half way. Snug up the cables with the adjuster under the center of the car. Then let off the brake and see if the drums turn with the same resistance as they did when the shoes first started to drag. That's the trick. There's not a whole lot of adjustment between too tight and no brake at all. Get a manual and follow the directions. My hand brake works good now. About 3/4's the way on and it's tight and will hold on just about any hill. Time and patience. You may have to adjust several times to get it right. Remember, not too tight to start with. Good luck. :cheers: :flag

Biker

Thanks for all of the feedback. I'm still not sure I'll tackle the job, but at least I know what I'm getting into.

VegasJen

biker, like others have said, some say these will work and some say they won't. i, too, have a 4-speed car and i'm just used to the wheel chock thing by now although i readily admit it's a royal PITA. before i removed the worthless POS all together, it would hold the car from rolling backwards down a very slight incline but was absolutely worthless forwards. i adjusted the shoes, both sides and this was as good as i got. i finally just gave up. i intend to fabricate a manual brake using a cable operated caliper on the rotor someday but it's low on the list.
i wish you all the luck and hope you have great success. just think of it this way: it is better to expect mediocre results and by happily surprised than to expect excellence and be let down. :cheers:

Schwee

The '81 has four wheel disc. No shoes/drums.
My parking brake will hold the car practically upside down.
No prob.

Gator81

OK...... Um, so what exactly is it that you think happens when you pull on the parking brake handle? What's doing the holding, since there are "no shoes/drums" ? (thanks for the clarification)

jerryp58

My $0.02

I really like the http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html link. It's got a great tip about using string on the shoe retaining spring for installation. I wasn't fortunate enough to have read this before I did my brakes and that was BY FAR the worst part of the job.

Some people say stainless is great EXCEPT for the shoes; they say the SS shoes end up binding (locking to maybe) on the backing plate. I used a SS kit that included the shoes and (wood :smash: ) I haven't had any trouble yet.

It took me quite a few attempts to get the brakes adjusted correctly (try for most of the adjustment at the wheels and use the cable's turnbuckle adjustment for fine tuning only), but now my brakes will hold the car fine in Drive and Reverse and will slow the car fairly quickly (at least from 35mph; that's all I've tested).

I've never heard of such a kit, but since you're missing everything, you may want to look around and see if there's an aftermarket kit or a way you can add a rotor/pad e-brake versus the drum/shoe. I would think it'd require welding on some brackets, but it would make for a much nicer system. I was in a auto shop the other day and was amazed to see the rotor/drum setup on a fairly new (1990's I'd guess) Jeep Cherokee. I did notice something nice about the Jeep's setup though, it had an interesting clip that pushed onto the shoe retaining pin versus the spring & cap method. That looked like it would be super easy to use.

I hope all this babbling helps.

Good Luck.

Brettmc

The only thing I didn't replace when I did my parking brake is the handle. It was a job! Nothing hard about it at all, just tedious. If ya need help, email me. For a serious problem we can talk on the phone. If it's a real big problem, I'd be willing to do some on-site consulting for a small fee. ;) :lol:

Brett :thumbs:

Sting Raycin

I'm glad this thread came up. I am about to attempt the rebuild on my 78. Looks like there are a couple of good tips on this one.

jac1502

I’m about to under go the same project and I also have an 81. Since it has disc brakes how exactly does the ebrake work? :confused: