Shark Racer

I've got a squeek on the passenger side, and am considering putting polyurethane cushions w/ 8" bolts on both sides. I am going to do a fiberglass spring in the future, but would consider doing just this for now. How much work is it to do this?

Can I just put the side I'm working on on stands, jack up the spring with a c-clamp, remove the bolt, install the new one, put it back together, then do the other side? Or do I have to jack both sides of the car up at the same time?

Would it be all right to just change the bolts for now, or should I save it for when I do the entire suspension?

Thanks in advance!

-Steve


[Modified by Pacin'California, 7:46 PM 1/5/2003]

DaddyO

Where are you getting the bolt kit from, and how much is it? I think I'll do this same job. great idea!

VegasJen

hey steve! yeah, you can do each side separately. and like said above, probably an hour or so. you might take a little longer just because it's the first time and if you have FE7 (rear anti-swaybar) then almost certainly longer as the swaybar end links will need to be removed as well.
as for bolts, i'd suggest you find a local bolt store and get some there. 1/2"x 9" long, or 10" if you want to lower it will do what you want to do. plus you can get jam nuts and deformed thread or nyloc nuts and it will give you 1"+ of fine tune adjustment to get the rear height just like you want it. just make sure you get at least a grade 5 or above bolt. i'm running a grade 8 but some people have suggested a grade 5 would have more stretch. then again, i just carry a spare bolt just in case i did snap one but that hasn't happened yet. BTW, your looking at about $8 for 2 bolts/jam nuts/nyloc nuts and no shipping.

mapman

Pacin'California,

Is the squeek coming from the spring itself. You might check the archives (or NCRS archives) for lubricating the spring.

Bobchad

Mine were rusted and it was easier to cut them than screw the nuts off.

VBP has a kit with the bolts, cushions and new cups. I think it was about $30.

terryrudy

Hey dude, its not that much work more to just do the spring replacement while you're down there. Might as well get it all done now and forget about it. Also get some marine grease at Dale hardware to lubricate if you're going Poly. Poly tends to squeak more so be careful there.
good luck man
-terry

Shark Racer

I wouldn't mind throwing the fiberglass spring in for sake of completeness, but would the 360# spring be all right with my dilapidated shocks? As far as drivability goes. I know wheel hop and all will be a PITA in a corner. I can't afford shocks right now, and want to wait to do all at once.

-Steve

Shark Racer

Not sure if it's from the spring or endlink, but it is *only* on the passenger side. (Compressing above the wheel with body weight). Would the spring only do it on one side?

Also, Ter: What's the procedure for lubing the poly joints w/ grease? Just pack the poopie out of em?

-Steve

Steve Grodin

Most hardware store bolts don't have enough threads for adjusting ride height, unlike the VP bolts. Don't ask me how I know. :steering: