Jughead

Got the crank in yesterday. First time I'm doing the pistons & rings. any words of wisdom? And I did say start, I'll be pleased if I get one done. :yesnod:

PatsLs1vette

Len, Have you checked end gap yet on the rings?

Jughead

No Pat, I'm getting the specs with my coffee now. GM 454 spec: Top& middle--0.010-0.020. Oil ring--no greater than 0.030. actual range 0.015-0.055

Twin_Turbo

Yeah if you have file to fit rings check the gap. Since you're a first timer at this I advise taking the stuff to a machine shop that has a special angle grinder w/ dial gauge. It takes quite a bit of practise to get a good straight gap.

Marck

PatsLs1vette

i always put the ring in the cylinder about 1 1/2 inch down the in the cylinder and check the gap then,i cant remember if you got file to fits or not but if not you can move rings around each cylinder to get a better gap sometimes.

Jughead

Thanks, maybe I'll be glad to just check the gaps this morning. I'm not going to work on this all day. The Steelers are playing at 1PM!

Twin_Turbo

0.0004" per inch of bore diameter should be appropriate gap.

If you're installing rings on a refinished (bottle brush or glaze breaker hone) cylinder that hasn't been overbored push the ring down to the bottom (unworn) part of the bore. The gap will be larger on top. Ig you had set it to spec on top it'll be too small on the bottom.

If you have pregapped rings moving them around the bores to get all of them as close (and tight) as possible is a good idea.

Marck

Jughead

Thanks, I've read 0.0045 for each inch of bore diameter. 4.31(0.060) =0.019395 which is pretty close to 0.020.

Twin_Turbo

I typed one 0 too many :)

redwingvette

Because you sad this was your first time: ring gap position on the piston is very important. Rap the rod threads with so black tape or a piece of hose so they can't nick the crank when your installing them. Take your time.

Chris@VetteFinders

Good to see you still remember your priorities!

GO STEELERS!! :smash:

mrvette

Over the decades of having all sorts of rebuilt engnes of various makes, I have found having a GOOD machine shop do the short short block assy is the best deal....I do the cam/heads install....but gapping those rings, setting bearings. and such....let the experienced guy do it....all the types of piston materials, bore, taper, hone, ring types, gap position, con rod installation, all that is just toooooo critical I feel, for ME to do....and yes, I have tried...

to me...just pay the 300 bux or so to have it done RIGHT and then do the rest yourself.....

GENE

ddecart

Interestign thought Gene. The do-it-yourselfer in me NEVER thought of that. :lol:

The FIRST time I rebuilt an engine, I went nuts. Checked EVERY ring gap. And I don't mean check to make sure it's in the range it should be in, I mean check and record every ring gap. The last one I did I pulled out 2 feeler gages, the high end and the low end. Push the ring down into the bore, make sure the small gage slips in but the big one doesn't and I was on my way.

The best bit of advice is putting a piece of hose on the studs on the connecting arm to guide them around the crank and prevent any nicking.

Take your time and enjoy yoruself Leonard!

Jughead

That sounds similar to how I've been approaching this whole buildup. I could call it a rebuild but it's a whole lot more than that. I'm usually pretty meticulous when it comes to my vehicles and this engine carries me to the upper limit of cautious.

Well, I managed to track down a ring compressor today. Didn't get to install any pistons yet but managed to measure the end gap on 6 rimgs and #2 piston is aligned and ready to go!
:yesnod: :thumbs: :steering:

SanDiegoPaul

The FIRST time I rebuilt an engine, I went nuts. Checked EVERY ring gap

I always did too. Why not? Also each and EVERY rod/main bearing inclding the thrust of the crank. I have had very, VERY good luck with engine rebuilding.

But if you think about it, I made my own luck by doing it right. :cheers:

jackson

Len:
The others suggestions about close check & filing-fitting rings ... and careful to cushion rod bolts from nicking crank ... all required! I'll add this... read the ring instructions & pics carefully & recheck & reread to make sure you have the top ring in top position ... and is not upside down ... same goes for 2'nd ring ... it's easy to make a boo boo.

Titanium Rat

if you are going to run NOS make sure you give the rings a tad bit more of the gap

70BBvert

Did you install the cam yet? It's easier to turn the block upside down, install the cam with two hands rather than one and then drop in the crank. If you plan to degree the cam the install the number 1 piston without any rings. A wrap of masking tape will help minimize the piston rocking in the bore.

I find it easier this way :)

Jughead

Yesterday I got #1 & #2 completely installed. I rechecked everything and found I had done exactly what jackson had said. :eek: I had the top & second ring upside down.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I followed your recommendations and used 3/8hose about 10 inches long on each rod bolt to protect the crank. Worked great and was much cheaper than the ones Jegs sells(~$30).




[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 8:36 AM 1/12/2003]