Smokehouse69

This fall I completed installation of a ZZ4 in my 69 'vette, while the engine and transmission were out I installed new underbody and firewall insulation on my car. It had originally had foil covered fiberglass underneath both floorboards. I think this was a 68-early 69 only item, since I've never seen it on other cars.
Well I put the new stuff in, sealed all the holes in firewall and floor. Since then I've enjoyed cool feet and a quieter interior. This evening I was returning from my first road trip in the car. It was sort of chilly out (probably in the 40's) when I started out from my parents house. After about 15 minutes I started getting a little cool (this is something that I've never experienced in my car) There was no heat leaking into the car from the floor or the firewall. The bad thing about this is that I have no heater, I've got a new heater core, but it hasn't been anything I was worrying about installing any time soon.
Maybe I'll have to put the new core in, after 2.5 hours and 130 miles, I was pretty darned chilly. My toes were even cold! :D So, its either put in the heater core or try and fix all the air leaks around my windows and weatherstripping on my covertible top. Of the two I think the heater core is probably an easier quicker fix.

Crash Dummy

Put double sox on and have fun. It doesn't stay cold down here long enough to put a heater core at the top of the list. :D

BeachinVette

I have a brand new heater core sitting too. I just really don't want to put it in. I guess I need to though just for the defroster.

Bob

still-learning

Man, I can only hope to have your problem. :-) I have had heat issues for so long that this sounds like a dream. On the other hand, I just put a whole roll of relfectix into my interior so here's hoping.

Tim M.

mayberg

I should be so lucky.

Hey, anyone have good ideas on how to check to see if your heater core is in good condition? I was thinking heater hoses and a bicycle tire - hook it up, add some air, and check pressure in a few hours. I'd rather not test with hot coolant.

Eddie 70

If you are gonna be checking the heater core, let me tell you from experience, be very careful when removing the heater hoses. You should cut them from the heater core by slicing down the center of the hose and then split the hose to remove. When going back be sure to lube the heater core outlets with something to ease installation of the hoses. These heater cores are fragile after so many years. But it is better to find out in the driveway rather than going down the road.

mayberg

Thanks Eddie. Mine is already disconnected - presumably because of heat in the cockpit, done by the previous owner. I think there's another reason that there's heat in the cockpit, and didn't want to assume that the heater core was good and leak-free.

Let me know your thoughts on testing the core to make sure it doesn't have a leak. I'd rather not test with coolant.

still-learning

Mayberg,

From advice seen here (what a great place this is), you can take your heater core to any radiator shop and they can test it for you. Most people even recommend getting NEW heater cores tested before installing them.

Good luck.

Tim M.

mayberg

I'm sorry that I'm not being clear. The heater core is in the car, and there are no hoses connected to it. I'm reasonably certain that the heater core is a difficult item to remove, and would simply like to verify that it's in OK condition in the car.

still-learning

Ahhh.... That does make a difference. :blueangel: Sorry...

Tim M.

SanDiegoPaul

Since then I've enjoyed cool feet and a quieter interior.

Boy that's amusing! Reminds me of the maiden voyage last week with mine. When I put the motor in, I figured I'd plug off the heater hose outlets at the water pump and intake, leaving the core disconnected. No need for heat in this thing! Well, it was a cold night ... and I took her up into the mountains. At 80 MPH, bright beams blazin' and a cold, dark road, that cold air whistled thru the '76 like a hurricane! :smash: :smash: Until it got GOOD and HOT after a half hour driving or so, I was freezing. I slowed down, took surface streets for a while and allowed the inside of the car to warm. I never before thought I'd need that heater! The ironic part is that in my case, the heater core is good - it was MY CHOICE to leave it disconnected. Contrast to you guys who were forced to .... :rolleyes:

I'd sure like to insulate that cabin. What is the cheapest and easiest way to do so? Yea I know those words don't normally ring true in a Vette conversaiton !!!! :cuss But my wallet needs to seroiusly recover from the investment into the Stroker installation! And leaving the heater disconnected did NOTHING to cool the inside of the cabin on hot days. I though it would but was wrong.

HELP! :nopity

still-learning

SanDiegoPaul,

I just insulated my whole cabin. I used Reflectix from Home Depot. I think it was about $20 for the roll. I then used aluminum tape and duct tape to seal everything up.

So over all it is not expensive. The problem is the 'while I am at it's. For me it cost: wiring harness, carpet, storage compartments, ... :-)

Here is a picture of the interior in it's current state:


Tim M.

SanDiegoPaul

it was about $20 for the roll

Will a roll do a whole car?? I would LOVE it if I could fix my problem that cheaply. The interior is in good shape so I would need a good reason to tear it apart!

Thanks!

still-learning

Paul,

It really depends how gung ho you get. I used less then one roll but I didn't go too crazy in the back. I may still put some more down once I see how the carpet is going to fit.

Either way it will be close w/ just the one roll. (This is the larger of the two sizes at home depot. But I don't remember what the original size was since I have been 'in progress' for a while.

Tim M.