luvmy73

I just decided to pull my manifold and clean it up. I purchased some Fel-pro gaskets which included 2 intake gaskets and these rubber end-rail seals. Now this is the first time I've replaced these gaskets and want to know if it is ok that I ran a generousd bead of PERMATEX ULTRA COPPER Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket sealant around the block and head-ports and then placed the gaskets and end-rail seals on. Is this ok? The fel-pro instructions said to "SPARINGLY" apply some sealent to hold the gasket in place, but I used a continuous bead all the way around. I just want to know if this is ok so I don't have to do it all over again. Also should I apply sealant on-top of the gaskets when I go and place the manifold on again?

Thanks,

Mike.



[Modified by luvmy73, 8:57 PM 1/1/2003]

mapman

luvmy73,

You might check out this link to the archives. paul79 posted some good info that should answer your questions. Note the last tip in the post that calls for applying the RTV to BOTH the intake manifold and engine rails (front and back) for a sure oil seal.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...691325#4691325

J75

You don`t want so much rtv that it mashes into the ports.A light coat on each side is all you need.Throw the end seals away.Run a bead about 1/4 inch thick across both ends of the block and install your intake.

RJR99SS

most people usually just use rtv sealant for the end rails. the reason you're suppose to use it sparingly is when everything bolts together, some silicon will get mashed inside the engine. If you slop it on, it's a pretty good chance a piece of sealant will actually drip down into the engine. That can cause quite a few problems depending on the location it falls into the engine.

Paul L

It may also plug the oil drain-down holes. The other tip I posted was to "skin" the surface of the head with a VERY light application of the rtv to hold the gasket in place before you place the manifold. This will avoid shifting of the gasket. But a very light touch as noted.

bigvette1

Suggest you use the RTV sparingly as said in the previous posts. Clean the heads and the manifold very well using a scraper and the a gasket removal disk if you have one.

I use Edelbrocks gasketcinch in the can. Coat the heads and the gasket with the gasketcinch. Put a thin bead of RTV around the water jacket holes only on the head. Let it dry and press the gasket in place and it will hold.

Toss out the rubber end rails and apply about a 1/4" bead of RTV on the end rails making sure you go up the edge of the gasket about 3/4". I use a very thin bead on the manifold side of the water port on the the gasket with RTV. This makes sure the the water stays in the engine.

Hint - go to the hardware store and get 2 intake manifold size bolts. Cut off about an 1" of threads only. Cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw to use a screw slot. Now screw them into the 2 diagnonal cornors of the head. This gives you guides for lowering and placing the manifold on the heads the 1st time, no moving and perfect alignment. Drop the manifold on press into place. Take the bolt aligners out with a screwdriver.

Screw in the manifold bolts after you have coated them with something like permatex or Aviation form a gasket. Keeps the water from crawling up the bolts. Torque accoring to the pattern, run it, let it cool, and torque again.

Good luck.


[Modified by bigvette1, 11:13 PM 1/2/2003]


[Modified by bigvette1, 11:16 PM 1/2/2003]

mengbar

I'm kinda old school when it comes to engine gaskets. The only thing I use sealant on is the water pump to block and thermostat housing to intake. I always use a rated sealant (Permatex blue).

I use high tack as the adhesive to hold my gaskets while I assemble. I use high tack to hold my valve pan gaskets to the pan covers, but never put anything between the gasket and the head.

The intake bridge gaskets are a pain in the butt for me, always have been. I put nothing on them. I keep both intake and block surfaces as clean as a whistle to prevent shifting. What a pain in the axx. I never have a leak anymore, but I have to be real **** retentive and stick to my system. I hate oil leaks. You can have a beautiful engine job and a crappy intake seeper can ruin it for you. Oil pans, timing chain covers, and valve pan covers are a snap, but the manifold seepers are a card carrying hag. :mad

:thumbs: :steering:

luvmy73

Thanks for the helpful advice and comments guys. I will post pictures when my rebuild is complete. Hopefully everything will work out well thanks to your advice.

Mike.

Paul L

I would like to see those pics as I will be doing the same job soon. And if you can see any evidence of oil uptake from the intake valley I would again appreciate a pic. Thanks!

Tron79

Same Here. I have the whole top end off and it seems that there are several alternatives (for gaskets/Sealant) when putting the new intake on. I'll appreciate hearing about how it goes for you, as well...