cardo0

Will tackel fan shroud install this holiday season and previous instructions described removing top A-arms for clearance. What keeps the coil spring inplace when removing upper control-arms off-set shaft, bushings, bolts and shims?
Looks dangerous. Don't want to spend the holidays in the hospital.
Also do both sides need removal for fan shroud clearance? If not, which side is the victim, passenger or driver? Expect to replace radiator+core support+condenser+fan shroud together - just like one big sandwich (no baloney here). Mine is a 74 sb with A/C.:confused:

BB wowbagger

What do you think of removing the hood instead and slide the whole "sandwich" in verically?I`m gonna do this my self and so i`m also looking for tips in this subject. :cheers:

Michael Tucker

cardo this is how i did my 76 and after taking it off once i knew i did not want ot do it again
remove hood and then remove fan then remove or slide to the front the radiator core support condenser fan shroud then pull fan shroud out it only moved about two inches but that was good after removing the fan i did not put mine back on as i went with two electric fans that was very easy and i never have to do it again if you remove and replace radiator+core support+condenser+fan shroud together you should not have any problems if it is like the 76 GOOD LUCK
mike

cardo0

Yes wowbagger, my hood is off. Remember shroud hanging-up on A-arms. I busted up my old shroud (fan had ruined it already - another story) into pieces getting it out and replacements are expensive. :seeya


[Modified by cardo0, 8:53 PM 12/22/2002]

Gordonm

I know mine is a little different but I was able to take out the upper bolts tha thold in the core support. I was then able to push the core support forward enough pivoting on the lower bolts to remove the shroud. I do not have air so it makes it a little easier. It is very tight but I was able to get it out and back in this way

fauxrs

How concerned are you about full originality?

I have heard that if you cut the Shroud at the bottom, you can then squeeze the part together enough to get the shroud out.

The repair is a short piece of steel or aluminum pop riveted to the shroud at the bottom where it isnt visible. Certainly a durn site easier than removing suspension componants to get it out..

If you are even the least bit concerned about originality then dont do it.

Smokehouse69

Don't cut your shroud unless you absolutely can find no other way of getting it out. I was able to remove mine by by unbolting it from the radiator and core support, and removing the fan. Then I pulled the shroud back as far as it would go. Then I removed the radiator, by finageling the lower radiator hose outlet up and past the A-arm, then rolling the radiator up. Once the lower hose connection was above the A-arm the radiator came right out.
Then I had no problem getting the shround out.
I went back the same way, I stuck the shroud back down in place and then lowered the radiator back in by sticking the left hand side in and rolling it down, again getting the hose connection past the A-arm is the difficult part, but if you hold your mouth just right, it will slip right back in place.
I did the job twice and then I replace the fan and shroud with dual Spal electrics. I'll never deal with that damned shroud again.

R. Bruno

What others have said. It is a really tight fit but loosen as much stuff as you can NOT the front suspension howver and get yourself some wiggle room. If originality is no an issue, consider the elec. fan route. I did it recently - you would not believe how it opens up the engine compartment. Good luck

mrvette

On my SB '72, I wigggled the rad out first, then the shroud....the rad did not make it back in....a lighter, better late 80's camaro rad went in insteadl.....

the shroud was cut back by about 4-5 inches in the wind tunnel flange...
and also fitted with an '87 vette style ~16 inch electric fan....
also the shroud was split on both sides near the suspension...so it comes out now in two halves...upper and lower....talk about simple....no hood removal, no radiator removal, no mechanical fan to deal with...front side, back side, ATF cooler, a/c everything open in about 3-4 minits with a 1/2 inch impact...

GENE

GENE

theandies

Man I must have the easiest shroud to remove on my 71 base small block (now a ZZ4!!!) without air. I have the aluminum radiator that came stock with no-air 4speeds in 71. It has this great big shroud that looks like an oil barrel. All I have to do to get it out is remove the engine driven fan then unbolt the shroud the turn it while wiggling it out of the engine compartment and its out. The whole job can be done (taking out and putting in) in less than an hour. Makes me glad I bought the car/engine/options car that I did.
John

EDIT - I forgot, if your upper a-arms need to be removed, don't worry about the springs. They rest in pockets in the frame and in no way come in contact with the upper a-arms (unless your Daves_rusty_75 :lol: :lol: ) just leave your car on the ground when you do remove them. The lower control arms and spring will support the car.


[Modified by theandies, 11:46 AM 12/23/2002]

redwingvette

I've done mine aleast 4 times so I'am getting good at it.
1. Remove core support bolts inside wheel well
2. Remove fan
3. Remove fan shroud bolts, radiator and condenser bolts (remove hoses and trans lines if you plan on pulling radiator).
4. Remove headlamp actuators (gives room to pull radaitor support toward front of car.
5. Pull radiator as far forward as you can and wiggle fan shroud pulling up the driverside first.
6. Reverse to reinstall.

tippi58

Ive done mine last year ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO REMOVE A ARMS.:smash:

Take the fan off, loosen radiator mounting bolts and with some wiggling it will come out. All hoses off of course and its heaps easier with the hood off. Just dont forget to mark the psosition of the hood when removing so you can refit it in the right position.

Merry Xmas :cheers:

:cool: :cool: :cool:

CF6873

d
I don't think you want to loosen the upper control arms while the tires are on the ground. The weight will surely push them to the center of the car. The proper way is to place jack stands securely under the lower control arms so there is no pressure on the uppers. Craig