Pedro'74

Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to face the dreaded coil spring removal, and I was wondering if you guys have any tips. In particular, is the use of a spring compressor required? Recommended? Unnecessary?

Thanks in advance!

-Pedro


[Modified by Pedro'74, 9:09 PM 12/16/2002]

vette69

When I took mine out I wrapped a chain around the spring and control arm a couple of times. I then put my floor jack under the lower control arm and the went about the task of loosening the ball joints. This worked well for me. I bought a coil spring compressor only to find out it wouldn't work, Maybe others have been able to use them, butu I couldn't figure out how.
You want to make sure that spring is controlled though. there is a helluva lot of energy there.
make sure the control arm bolts (at the ends of the shafts) are loose before starting though. that made my heart skip a beat.

Twin_Turbo

Put a jack under the lower control arm, jack the thing upm wrap the coil spring w/ a chain, loosen upper ball joint and drop the jack. That's how I did it.

Marck

Pedro'74

Marck, Brad: thanks for the tips! :cheers:

Brad: I'm not sure what your saying about loosening the control arm bolts? What exactly is the concern?

Thanks!
-Pedro

Gordonm

With the stock springs you need a compressor or something to keep them compressed. I had 550 and 460 springs in mine and did not use a compressor. The springs are shorter but the coils are thicker. The stock ones are I think 10 coils and the others are 7 I think.

ddecart

I did pretty much teh same thing. Except I chained the spring to the top side, put the jack under the control arm and removed the inboard bolts, not the ball joint. Let the jack down SLOWLY and all is good.

Pedro'74

Gordon & Dave: Thanks for the input!

I'm removing 29 year old springs, and will replace them with VBP 460 lb/in springs. So the installation will be easier... Sweet!

So I guess tomorrow I'm off to the hardware store to buy a length of chain, and get this thing going...

-Pedro

mapman

Pedro'74,

I used a spring compressor on my 1980, L-48, FE7 suspension. The FE7 suspension has the thicker coils with fewer turns. These thicker (shorter uncompressed) front springs are easier to remove. If your car has (or had) a 7/16 rear sway bar is is most likely an FE7 suspension.

I had the engine/transmission out of the car so I didn't want to try the "jack under the front control arm" method.

The Van Steel video on 1963-82 suspension is worth reviewing. It will answer many of your questions, although the suspension on the video car came apart a LOT easier than mine. :smash:

I rented the free ($40 deposit) spring compressor from Autozone. Remove both "fingers" from the spring compressor so that you just have the compressor shaft. Set aside the "sliding" fingers, you only need the "fingers" that have the screw threads. Lubricate the shaft with anti seize to make it easier to tighten the spring compressor.

Remove the tie rod ends (pickle fork) from the knuckle arm assembly. Remove the front sway bar from the lower control arm. Remove the rubber bumper from the lower control arm. Remove the brake caliper, block the disk pads open, and set the caliper aside.

After removing the shock absorber, I ran the shaft down the shock absorber hole. The hex head end (and washers) of the compressor shaft just rest on the shock tower. Next I worked the threaded "finger" section of the compressor into the compressor shaft. Try to place the "fingers" as close to the bottom of the spring as you can.

I ran a chain through a couple of coils and the lower control arm shock absorber hole and ran a bolt through the links to chain the spring to the lower control arm. I tightened the compressor just enough to take pressure off the lower control arm.

Loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE, the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. I had the nut threaded down to the bottom of the ball joint bolt - (all the threads of the nut were on the bolt - these nuts will "catch" the steering knuckle assembly when it separates from the control arms (ball joints).

I had to use a pickle fork and :smash: to get the steering knuckle and upper control arm ball joint to separate. I then used the pickle fork to separate the steering knuckle and lower control arm ball joint.

Carefully loosened the spring compressor bolt to completely release pressure on the spring. THE SPRING COMPRESSOR BOLT HAD PLENTY OF TRAVEL WITH THE FE7 (THICK) SPRINGS - THE SPRING WAS COMPLETELY DECOMPRESSED AND THE BOLT HAS SEVERAL INCHES OF TRAVEL LEFT. IF YOU HAVE STANDARD (THIN COIL) SPRINGS, FIND OUT THE UNCOMPRESSED LENGTH OF THE SPRING TO MAKE SURE THE SPRING COMPRESSOR BOLT HAS ENOUGH TRAVEL.

Remove the spring.

Installing the new spring: When installing the new springs, be sure to align the top of the spring in the shock tower in accordance with the A.I.M.

Insert the spring compressor bolt into the top of the shock tower. Position the new spring in the shock tower and hold it loosely in place with the threaded "fingers of the spring compressor. Align the top of the spring in the shock tower in accordance with the A.I.M. Then tighten the spring compressor bolt to compress the spring (safety chain spring).

When the spring is compressed sufficiently, you can position it back into the lower control arm.

Note: I also removed the disk brake/hub assembly from the steering knuckle to make it easier to work with.

At that point, put the bolt on the lower control arm ball joint through the steering knuckle and raise the lower control arm/steering knuckle so that the top of the steering knuckle goes into place on the ball joint of the upper control arm.

Bolt the upper ball joint nut and steering knuckle together to the proper torque.

Then slowly release the spring compressor, Make sure the spring is going into the lower control arm properly. As the spring compressor is released, the spring forces the lower control arm ball joint bolt into the steering knuckle. Then torque the lower ball joint and steering knuckle together.

GTR1999

Hey Pedro,
I removed springs with a floor jack and also with the Chuck G "Maryland" compressor. The jack method worked fine but the care was on jack stands so I could get the jack right under the lower ball joint area.
The last one I did, the car was on a Kwiklift without access for a jack. I used the "Maryland" compressor- 1/2-13 threaded rod with a 5x5 1/2 plate. I was supposed to get the plate in between the colis and compress the spring to relieve tension on the lower A arm. I made the plate a little too big and didn't want to set it up in a Bridgeport again so I used the plate on the bottom of the lower arm like the jack would support it. It worked and I removed both springs but the threaded rod got chewed up and rolled the threads. I bought a 3' piece of 1/2 acme threaded rod and nuts to try next time. This should work better and last longer.
Good luck and paint everything you remove.
Gary

Pedro'74

David,

Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! I think tomorrow I'll buy the chain, and borrow a spring compressor from Autozone (after all, it's free! :D), and have everything ready to face this mission. The calipers and rotors are already out; I still have to remove the sway bar. At my normal pace, by the weekend those coil springs should be out... Thanks again!

Gary,

Where have you been?! Thanks for your response! I do intend to remove everything related to front suspension, brakes and steering, and clean, rebuild, and/or repaint everything. Should be done by the end of May... :D

Getting a little sidetracked: I seem to remember you had some difficulties brushing on the POR-15 "Metal Mask". I have a can of that stuff here, but after a bad experience with their "Chassis Paint", I'm inclined to use the good old Eastwood stuff instead, which is a pleasure to apply. I mean, the POR-15 rust preventive paint brushes on very nicely, with no visible brush marks, but their top coating paint was a completely different story... Any tips? Did you end up spraying the stuff?

Thanks,
-Pedro

mapman

Pedro'74,

Another thing. I was going to replace my ball joints so I used a pickle fork to separate the ball joint and steering knuckle. A pickle fork will tear up/destroy the ball joint.

If you are not going to replace the ball joints, then the steering knuckle has to be separated from the ball joints by striking the "flat spots" on either side of the steering knuckle beside the ball joint.

The Chevrolet Corvette manual has instructions for removing the ball joint by "tapping" the boss (flat spot) of the knuckle with a hammer while using a heavy hammer as a backing. (Hold a heavy hammer against the "boss" of one side of the knuckle, while striking the boss on the opposite side.)

Theory is the vibration caused by the striking hammer on one side and the backup hammer on the opposite side will jar the steering knuckle free from the ball joint. I say THEORY because my 1980 would not come apart using this method.

If you are not going to replace the tie rod ends, use a tie rod separator to press them apart as the pickle fork will destroy the rubber boot etc. (I think Autozone also rents these.)

IMPORTANT - The car will sit too high if the springs are not properly placed in the spring tower.

After you get the springs out, look up into the spring tower and find where the "spring stop" is located. You will notice a small hole close to the spring stop, this is to help you properly align the spring.

The end of the spring coil should be 0.38" plus or minus 0.12" from the spring stop. That small hole near the spring stop gives you a topside visual check on the end of the coil. Determine where the end of the coil will be, relative to the inspection hole, when the spring is 0.38" + - 0.12 from the spring stop.

When you install the new spring, tighten the spring compressor enough to make the spring stay in place, but loose enough so that you can still twist the spring. Twist the spring while sighting through the alignment hole at the top of the spring tower. Once you get the coil lined up relative to the inspection hole, finish compressing the spring.

Note: There is also a spring stop and (drain) hole on the lower control arm. The alignment that matters though is the upper coil spring stop.

Pedro'74

David,

Thanks again for the detailed tips. I do plan to replace all the ball joints and tie rod ends, so today I got a pickle fork, and that oughta work.

I'll print this thread and keep it for the installation time. As I said above, given my normal speed on this kind of project, that will be around May... :crazy:

Thanks again!
-Pedro

Lohkay

As for your por15 question, I tried 4 products from them.... the black rust preventive, grey rust preventive, silver top coat and clear cloat.

I don't know why you'd want to paint a chassi black topcoat on the preventive surface unless its going to see sunlight a lot. I think it looks great as it is... The silver top coat (mettalic paint) looked ugly brushed and I'm not even sure it would look good sprayed. the clear coat is AWESOME tho... I truly love that paint. (has the same advantages as the por15)

Chuck Gongloff

Here's a pic of the Maryland spring compressor. This works great. I've always had trouble with the "standard" spring compressors. Tough to fit, and not much "compression" room when you tighten it. Chuck






[Modified by Chuck Gongloff, 6:36 AM 12/17/2002]

69bblock3x2

Pedro,

If you need any help let me know. I live off of exit 12. I have all the tools that you will need, plus I have done this more than a couple of times.

John.

GTR1999

Hey Pedro,

I've been on/off the forum lately. I've stripping the 69 down from the tranny forward as well as the paint.

You are correct that I had some initial troubles with the Metal Mask. I ended up with good results by using a sponge brush to blot the paint on. You also have to keep mixing the silver because the pigments seperate out.

I'm doing the front suspension on the 69 now. I have the A arms just about done,just need to install the rubber bushings. Then assemble the relay rod,tie rod tubes,and move on to the steering box. I found the ball stud for the relay rod was worn pretty good. This was never replaced before even though the rest of the suspension was so might want to check that if you have manual steering. The lower ball joints and idler arm were worn out after 19k miles so they'll be replaced. I bought a Super front end kit from Muskegon and the relay rod kit from Paragon. BTW - Paragon offers a 5% discount and free shipping for first time net orders. I found their service to be excellant.

The way I prepped the front end part was to clean them in a cleaning tank,wash with POR15 metal ready for 20 minutes,rinse with water,dry, paint with POR15 gloss black and top coat when the POR was tacky. I don't care for the POR15 top coat offerings. I use Eastwood Chassis Black,Under Hood Black, or Seymour Cast Blast for top coats and had very good results. I like the Cast Blast better then the Metal Mask,it's faster and less $$. Then I'll spray them with Eastwood Satin Clear for the parts that will see road dirt and abuse.

Good luck,
Gary

PS How do you like NY state?

norvalwilhelm

I replace the springs in the front of my car at least 6 times in a few weeks. I tried 3 different kinds and ended up cutting a set of morosso down , but many trial fits, measuring heights etc. I never once used a spring compressor for taking the springs out, not once and the morosso were long soft springs, 19.5 inches to begin with.
Anyway to break the ball joints apart loosen the nuts about 1/2 their thread then break them loose using the spring pressure to assist you. The car must be sitting on jack stands.
After breaking the ball joints loose, removing the caliper and hanging it safely to one side I used a 3 ton floor jack under the spring, removed the sprindle, then slowly lowered the jack standing to one side. In every case the spring came out without flying anywhere. As the jack is lowered the lower A arm just slowly released tension on the spring.
If you are installing new 460 pound short springs you should be able to just set the new one in and rejack.
The motor must be in to do this or the whole car will rise up.
Good luck

kgraumann

I went to Autozone and used their "Loaner Spring Compressor Tool". It is free for use. Of course there is a deposit just in case you don't bring it back, break or misuse it.

I use Autozone's loaner tools constantly, and never had a problem with them or with getting my deposit back.

Pedro'74

Many thanks to all for the tips, pics, and all! :cheers:

David (Lohkay): I did try the POR-15 clear, and thought it brushed nicely. However, the metal prep used before turns the metal into some funky colors. Did you experience that? How did you get around?

John (69bblock3x2): I'm really glad to find another local Corvetter and forum member. I'm off of exit 8, near the river, not too far from you. If it turns out to be necessary to remove the fan shroud (and maybe the radiator) to pull the upper control arms, like some people said, then I'll need an extra pair of experienced hands, and I may take your offer! Thanks!

Gary: I'm not far from Albany. It's a nice place, but lots of snow. It's still mid December, and I have seen already more snow than I'd see in the Boston area during the whole Winter! :eek: Thanks for the tips, and good luck with your project!

:chevy
-Pedro

vette69

I didn't loosen the bolts at the end of the control first, so when all else was relieved, they were still holding the energy from the springs. Fortunately, I had the floor jack about a 1/2" under the lower control arm, so nothing fatal happened. Just had to change my shorts.


[Modified by vette69, 1:06 PM 12/17/2002]