TedH

Has anybody bought a set of cork or rubber valve cover gaskets lately for their SBC? I don't know if it is just me, but the last two sets of FelPro that I bought were difficult to install since they had 'settled' in the cardboard box packaging and really resisted a good fit on the cylinder head. I ended up removing a rubber gasket to find that along the upper and lower 'lip' of the cylinder head, the gasket was 95% inside the valve cover (vs. being where it needed to be to keep the oil IN). The replacement cork gaskets weren't much better but this time I took my time and verified that everything was where it was intended (read stayed 'put') before I tightened the bolts down.

And it wasn't due to over-torquing... I tighten them 'snug' with one of those 7/16" screwdriver/sockets that prevent you from applying much over 7ft lbs before the handle slips.

I've noted that Mr Gasket sells the gaskets with plastic coated over a cardboard backing; keeps the gaskets 'properly formed'; less chance for poor alignment and settling in my opinion.

Oh well, I'm using the good old $9 cork gasket once again; good bye rubber gasket. Oh, also noted the rubber gasket ($9 version) also had 'stretched' valve cover bolt holes. I suspect this is one of those 'you gets what you pays for...' situations.

Now, if I can only determine the cause of my persistent transmission leak, I might soon be able to claim a dry, oil stain free garage floor (hopeful).

:seeya

Twin_Turbo

Had the same experience, the cork was waped from the way it was packaged and a PITA to install.

Did you "glue"the gaskets on the covers first?

I don't like the cork gaskets either, there are much better neoprene gaskets available, they are much easier to install (especially if you have cover studs)

Marck

TedH

I had used the black RTV on a prior install but opted for using my fingers and checking visually along the edges this time. Once I had the bolts through the covers and the gaskets (with the covers positioned on the heads), I ran my fingers along the gaskets and literally seated each valve cover bolt into the cylinder heads, torqued into place using my 7/16" screwdriver/wrench. As I tightened, I re-checked the gasket positioning and then did a visual (above and below the car) to verify the cork stayed 'put'. I think this is a keeper :yesnod:

john's '81 mouse

A suggestion for old / stiff / warped / mis-shapen cork gaskets.................

something I learned over 30 years ago working in my dad's farm implement business as a grade school through college tractor mechanic..............

soak these gaskets for a few hours in warm tap water, then dry them off, you'd be surprise how you can bring them back to life!!!!!!!!

Surfer69

I just put the rubber ones on my 350 and the long sides were warped toward each other. Had to find a way to hold edges while putting cover on. It was a PITA. And still one end seems to leak slightly.

TedH

That is exactly what happened with both the rubber and cork FelPro gaskets. The rubber gaskets als had 'elongated' holes that really caused me concern. I finally installed the cork gaskets and found that, even though they were warped, I could 'work them into shape' and they would stay put alot better than the rubber gaskets. Too bad they don't just package them like Mr Gasket. Would keep them 'square'.

The Money Pit

I used the RTV Black to hold the gaskets in position on the valve covers only.Wait till the RTV is set,then put them on the heads. No leaks,and have been off the engine 3 times already and reused without resealing.

OHSIXX

I am about to order Fel-Pro Gaskets. Should I do something else?

TedH

If the valve cover gaskets are included in an overhaul kit, they will probably be ok. I've seen the warpage when the valve cover gaskets are packaged alone. The gaskets themselves are good; just poor packaging in my opinion makes installation a challenge.