Stingraycrazy

Any of you running motor or tranny plates on the street?

One of my concerns for my project is keeping the motor from ripping loose the motor mounts. To handle the horsepower I using motor & transmission plates with solid motor mounts in the stock locations. This would hold the motor in the frame and strengthen the frame at several points. I made the motor plates from .250" aluminum. The plates will also serve as brackets for the remote reservoir power steering pump. Here is a pic of the motor plates so far. 2" steel tabs welded to the frame rails on each side and then bolted to the plates. The transmission plates are still on the drawing board but I plan to use .250" aluminum as well around the lower bell housing. Since I'm removing the T-Bar I'll need the frame to be as strong as possible… :crazy:

SmokedTires

Not yet, but maybe with the new motor ;) .

Twin_Turbo

are you using a rear plate between engine & tranny?

Stingraycrazy

Yes I plan on using the tranny plate. The rear plate that fits between the engine and tranny is very thin however maybe an 1/8". I thought about welding .250" aluminum material around the diameter of the bell housing plate about an 1/8 of an inch away from the belhousing. This would make it stronger and hopfully function as a frame brace as well. That one is still on the drawing board. Got any ideas?

Twin_Turbo

I've been thinking about that too, don't want to run a plate between tranny & engine for bovious reasons (in my case input shaft engagement in the pilot bearing)

If the bellhousing bolt flage is flat maybe you can make a plate that bolts to the belljousing, not between bellhousing and tranny.

Marck

Fevre

Can you mill 1/16th of an inch off the bellhousing and engine mating surfaces to allow the 1/8th inch thick plate?

bob

For what it is worth, my block saver between the block and scattershield is .125". That doesn't seem to cause any input shaft problems. With some clutches you have to use and adjustable clutch ball to make up for it.
bob

PatsLs1vette

ive only used them in race cars only not street cars,definitely nothing moves,and we had a hydrauilic throwout bearing so we had to use shims in front of thebearing so we had the correct pedal.

gkull

On my S/C dragster we used .250 T something heat treated aluminum plates. The stuff was so hard that it was hard to cut or drill. For the rear you can buy the offset flexplate and Torque Converter made to space the tranny bell housing back 1/4 inch because of the motor mount plate. Don't forget the TCI SFI explosion guard plates for the flex/TC area to meet the NHRA rules.

We only used SS type hose clamps over the tabs that rested on the frame for the ability to quick change the motor.

:chevy

Stingraycrazy

The 1/8" plate between the engine and tranny is not a problem for an automatic but I'd like to make it stronger to stiffen the frame. I like the idea of a plate that bolts to the outside bellhousing bolts. I'll have to think about that one. :crazy:

Stingraycrazy

Gkull, I checked out the TCI web page and I think I could modify the SFI Flex Plate guard for a tranny brace. Very good idea...

P.S. I hope my new little girl looks as happy in my garage when she's that age... Great Pic!


Something like this :crazy:





[Modified by Stingraycrazy, 4:35 AM 12/12/2002]

Twin_Turbo

That looks like something that would work :) :cheers:

Stingraycrazy

I needed to add a under tranny support. :smash: Now I got to figure out how much it's going to cost.




[Modified by Stingraycrazy, 12:45 AM 12/13/2002]

Monty

Stingraycrazy,

I was just checking out your webpage; you're going to have no problem reaching you 600rwph goal. You shouldn't have much problem making closer to 800rwhp on pump gas when you get it tuned well. I don't know what your static compression is, but if it's around 8.5, then you should be able to run closer to 15-18psi. That's going to be a fast car with that engine.

Stingraycrazy

Thanks Monty, nothing like that horsepower monster you have though. I'm running 8.3:1 compression and plan on running 10 pounds of boost for tuning on the chassis Dyno. As far as 800HP goes maybe, but I don’t' want to get my expectations to high. Man this stuff is fun! It gives me a headache sometimes though. I'm sure you know what I mean... Should have my Intercooler finished by christmas and will finish the pipe work sometime in the new year. How do you plan on keeping that monster of yours from popping through the hood? :crazy:

Monty

So far the engine is staying in place. I'm just using Energy Suspension urethane engine mounts. I've only got about 500 miles on it, but it hasn't moved yet.

I thought about using a motor plate myself, and also using it as a turbo support. But when it came down to building it, I didn't go that way due to simplicity.

So far your setup looks awesome, that's for sure. This turbo stuff is fun, it makes it so easy to make too much power, yet maintain mild driving manners and be reliable. I'll never own another non-turbo hot rod. I'm always looking around thinking about what cars would be cool turbocharged - everything needs a turbo!

Good luck, stick with it because it's worth it.

A C

I take it you don't plan to drive on the street much. That would be a true C3 rattle tester :D . Are solid motor mounts too weak?

AC

Stingraycrazy

:yesnod: I'm with ya there...

Speaking of Hot Rod, when are you going to get that Twin Turbo Missile between the pages of a magazine? I've seen cars that don't hold a candle to yours grace the cover... :crazy:

Stingraycrazy

Turbos make a ton of torque and I'm just playing it safe. The plates should also make the frame stiffer for better handling, I hope... When I get the car finished I plan on driving it on power tours and just going to shows and maybe some racing. ;)

Stingraycrazy

AC, I tried to IM you but I think XP is giving me some problems with the HTML code on this site. To answer your question, yes I plan on driving this car on the street. No joke...
I'm really looking foward to cruising events. :crazy: