Mrmatt2009

(95 coupe, manual)

My antifreeze is leaking from somewhere I cannot see from the top of the engine. It is leaking quickly (when the engine is running) and hitting the belt system and spraying it everywhere so it is difficult to find where its leaking from. it seems to be hitting the belts/pulleys somewhere from mid to bottom of the belt system.

I have decent mechanical skills but still a newbe and haven't taken anything under the hood of this car apart before, not sure what can come out so i can get a better look but still safely run the engine.

The weather up here in MA is about to get really nice for the next 2 to 3 days especially monday so i wanna get the top off and car out!!

PLEASE HELP!!! -Matt

UPDATE: so i got the pressure tester from autozone (THANKS!) and im leaking from behind the thermostat. i can feel it from under it. Now what do it do?!?

VetteMed

Probably water pump or one of the hoses leading to/from the pump. Best bet is to rent a pressure tester from Autozone, and then you can pressurize the cooling system without the engine running. this will allow you to see where the leak is coming from without cutting your fingers off.

STL94LT1

Mrmatt2009

UPDATE: so i got the pressure tester from autozone (THANKS!) and im leaking from behind the thermostat. i can feel it from under it. Now what do it do?!?

VetteMed

If you don't have the ability or tools to start disassembling it to fix the problem, then it sounds like it's time to get it to a mechanic.

Mrmatt2009

I have the tools, and I have the ability too, ill just take my time. I know i can get it out and that before i could ever put it back on ill have to get new gaskets but im not sure exactly what i should be looking for once i get it out. If the fluid is really flowing out would that most likely rule out a bad seal/gasket? Is the best thing to do just get a new one?

any common problems that this could be?

thanks for the help so far!

biggrizzly

More than likely you have a toasted bearing in the back of the water pump where the water pump shaft exits the pump. That's where they will fail. You will need to drain the coolant from the system and then remove the water pump and replace it.

You need to determine how much coolant has drained in or around your optispark and wires. The distributor is prone to issues when a water pump goes out and gives it a soaking. Is your engine still running good?
Depending on how many miles you have on the distributor and how the engine is running, it might be wise to change the opti-spark out while you have the water pump off.

There are lots of complete threads and discussions on this job here on the forum. I think there is a Tech Article on it as well.

Mrmatt2009

i have only driven the car about 20 to 40 miles with the coolant leaking( probably close to a galon or so) but when i was removing the hoses from the waterpump close to a half a galon or so also leaked on or near it... if im about to order a new pump and gaskets should i just order a distributer too or wait and see how it goes? I have already new spark plugs and wires that iv been meaning to install.

finally, i am keeping the existing thermostat. good or bad idea?

(i should add i am very short on cash)...(but who isnt)

Mrmatt2009

is there one part of the distributor that can be replaced when this happens due to the price of a new one?

r15

If you are on a tight budget for the optispark, Chandler motor sports seems to be a popular budget opti.

http://www.chandlermotorsports.com/

biggrizzly

If you were not having hesitation or problems with the way the car was running before, you can take the chance and not replace the opti. The water pump is not that hard to remove in the event you discover problems with the distributor later. And yes, you can buy a cap and rotor separate, but you would still need to remove the optii without damaging it and replace the rotor and cover. I think if it were mine and I was strapped hard for cash, I'd just install a new water pump and see how it runs first.

Mrmatt2009

I have ordered the water pump and gaskets (will wait to see if i need to get the distributer)(thanks "R15" for that site, Great price!)

Is there a specific way to put the coolant back through the pump?

When i test my seals how many PSI should i pump into the system with my pressure tester?

and finally does anyone have torque specs for this project?

Thanks everyone for dealing with a mechanical newB!

0ChandlerMotorsports

LannyL81

To drain the coolant, first the engine needs to be cold. Remove the coolant pressure cap. You will need to jack-up the front of the car and be able to get under it...safetly. Then on both sides of the engine block, just above the oil pan are the knock sensors. Remove the metal splash guards (11mm). Squeeze the electrical connector to remove from the sensor. Have a bucket under the knock sensor ready and then use a socket to slowly unscrew the knock sensor...one at a time.

While draining, remove the air cleaner, disconnect the MAF and coolant temp sensor connectors. Remove the MAF and ducting. Remove coolant hoses going to the throttle body...small amount of coolant will leak out...have towel ready.

Move bucket to under radiator, right corner, this is where the drain is at. Drain radiator.

Remove hoses to water pump.

Remove belt.
There are three bolts on each side of the water pump....two easy to get at...one not so easy on each side. You may need to remove the belt tensioner, ignition coil, ignition module for better access.

Remove water pump.

Then you can determine if you want to replace the OptiSpark. If you do you will need to remove the balancer. Three bolts and work it off. You will have to rotate the engine using the crank bolt to get at all three balancer bolts.
OptiSpark held on with three bolts. Mark the plug wires before taking them off.

If you get to here...you are doing GOOD.

Mrmatt2009

UPDATE: so i have the old waterpump off and the new one is already to go in as soon as the weather is right.

once the new one is in how do I get all the coolant back into the system before starting the engine?

LannyL81

Put the knock detectors back in....use thread sealant on them....pipe dope works great.
Close the radiator drain valve. Put thermostat in housing and put housing on. Put all hoses back on.

Take the bleed screw out of the thermostat housing; put a rag under the opening.

Slowly pour 50/50 mixture into coolant tank. Watch for leaks on all hoses. After a gallon has been put in, be watching the bleed hole and be ready to stop pouring and put the screw back in.

Once you have coolant coming out of the bleed hole, put screw back in. Continue to fill coolant tank to just below throat. Put cap on.

Pour 50/50 mixture into overflow bottle....to the cold level on the dip stick.

Start engine and let coolant temp get to 230 and the fans come on. Let it completely cool-down. Open bleed screw slowly, as soon as coolant begins to come out...tighten it up.

You can also go for a short drive and then let engine cool over night.

Check overflow bottle after heat-up and cool-down cycle. If it goes empty when cold; open bleed screw again. Add coolant to overflow. This may take 3-4 temp cycles to get to the correct level.

Mrmatt2009

Thanks Lanny!

So yesterday during the good weather I finished up the water pump installation. Everything seemed to go smoothly , I filled up the system with coolant as Lanny instructed (thanks again Lanny..Huge help!) I ran the engine (without driving) until the coolant temp reached 231 and let it cool down. Next I unscrewed the bleed screw to find no fluid or air was coming out so next (this might have been wrong ) I used my pressure tester ( about one pump) and heard the air exit the bleed screw hole then saw fluid and I tightened it back up, added just a little bit more coolant to the overflow bottle to reach the cool level on dipstick.

So everything seemed to be going well and on track, I thought for this next cycle I would take it for a quick spin, the engine ran for probably close to 20 min at idle because I was pumping up my tires and adding clutch fluid (a whole nother issue to do soon ) got into the car and began to drive up the road, I got about 1/4 a mile away when I saw "CHECK GAUGES"! coolant temp was at 265!!!!!!! I quickly pulled over shut off the engine opened the hood and this is what I saw.........

[THE ISSUE]: .... all of my coolant was not only boiling but pushed through the tank (leaking out of the cap just a little bit) and into the overflow bottle where it was completely filled up and poring out of that cap into some nice peoples yard on Easter Sunday


I was scared I could damage the engine (more ?) so I took advantage of my AAA gold and got a flatbed back home.

What happen!? ... What do I do now!? ... Could I have hurt the engine!?

STL94LT1

Did you reinstall the coupler that connects the water pump to the water pump's drive?

Mrmatt2009

No I did not! I don't know how I didn't even think of that! It must still be on my old pump. Thanks STL94LT1 !

looks like I will be removed and re-instating again!