shoptek

I took the gauge console apart for cleaning, Etc. and noticed that the fuel and temp gauge needles can be "set" almost anywhere you desire.

How would I determine the CORRECT starting point for the needles on the gauges. I thought I saw a similar topic a while ago, but can not find it.

As always, any and all info or ideas are welcome! :cheers:

Frankenvette

I've had my gauges apart many times. I would set the temp to the left at zero and the fuel gauge to the right (empty). Once they receive their input signals, they should adjust to the proper reading. Another way to test your gas gauge is to drive till the car runs out of gas. If the gauge says empty, your golden :lol:

Regards,

Jim

Ganey

Did that when the car was new, ran out idling at the pump, gauge was right on.
Temp., could verify that your thermostat opens at right temp. & then put a thermometer in rad. & note when flow begins.

NOTE Be very careful to pull needle straight up & off if you reset.

:cool:

Ganey

PS Make sure your connections are good before you "reset".

AB_in_AUS

I have a 1979 C3 which had the heads replaced to run unleaded. They had a non-standard temperature sensor with a resistor in the circuit. We have replaced the sensor with a correct one (and removed the resister). I understand that the scale on the gauge is non-linear but was wondering if my gauge was reading correctly with the new sensor.

With the engine at 160 degrees the gauge needle sits between the 100 mark and the first mark above the 100. Any thoughts or advice?

0Willcox Corvette

For us, the needles set at a fixed input. But we have the equipment here to do this and most don't. Franken covered a way to do this without the equipment and it should get you real close...

It's always better to do it with a scale so you can check the gauge accuracy. No two gauge calibrate exactly the same too. But as long as you know where empty is, the rest should fall in place.

If you want to see exactly where the needles are with no input go the points on the video below. These points are the same for 68-82 gauges.

Temp gauge with no input ohms:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=27603 If you go to the .55 second mark you'll see exactly where a needle should be with no input ohms...

Fuel gauge with no input ohms:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=27604
If you go to the 1.57 mark, you'll see exactly where the needle needs to be set with no ohms input.

I hope this helps.

Willcox

AB_in_AUS

The gauge is in working order and is responding to a signal from the sending unit .. I was wondering where the needle should sit on the gauge face at 160 degrees

0Willcox Corvette

You don't worry about 160 degree's.. You need a fixed point or something on the gauge face.. use Frankens advice above.

Willcox

AB_in_AUS

This is what the gauge looks like at 150 degrees:



Just trying to get a feel is this what you would expect to see.

0Willcox Corvette

I don't know AB.. I would think that would be close. I have my calibration manual here with me today so I can show you the scale we use if that helps you. You gauge should require the following input.

Temp or Mark ... Req. Ohms
100..................... 315
1st mark.............. 119
220.................. .... 89
2nd mark......... .... 61
middle of orange.. 44
280...................... 39

But I would do it like Franken stated above and then go a step further and ground out the ohms wire and make sure it matches the reading on the video for each gauge when grounded. If it does then the gauge should be fine.

AB_in_AUS

Thanks very much

AB_in_AUS

quick question on your table, it shows 210 at 89 OHMS .. should that be 220 (ie 220 is the centre of my gauge face)?

0Willcox Corvette

Huh... it says 220.... lol.. Yes it should be.. sorry about that. I corrected it. Even those figures can vary from gauge to gauge but for the most part they should be pretty darn close to accurate.

AB_in_AUS

really appreciate it