bence13_33

I started putting the rings on the pistons tonight. My uncle is sick and won't be able to help me for a while so I'm getting it done myself.

Where does the moly ring go? I'm lead to believe that it goes on top but am not 100% sure and can't find it in my book anywhere? The cast ring is the ring that is completely black correct? The moly ring is the one that looks like it has graphite on it's side and is black on the top and bottom correct?

Thanks :)

bence13_33

BTW the machine shop must have already honed the block for me. I can see the hone marks on the cylinder walls AND get this....my end gap on all of my rings is .016". I don't need to file fit the rings in. The manual suggests an end gap no higher than .020". I'm happy :)

Pete79L82

You are right on the rings.

Check this link. It is very informative.

http://www.federal-mogul.com/speedpr...speed_pro.html

bence13_33

Well I'm done for the night :mad . I went running around all day today looking for a ring compressor and the only place that had one was Auto Stupidmarket so I bought it for $9.00. I loosen it up to fit it down over the pistons and it won't go....so I loosen it a little more and snap the damn compressor broke! There's $9.00 down the tube. It's just been one of those days.....

I'm going to get a ring compressor off of my uncle tomorrow and go from there.

Barry's70LT1

Hi,

A couple of things.
The link that Pete provided is great.
Be sure to put the rings on "right side up". I'm sure you know this, just checking.

Second, be very careful when using the ring compressor. If the end of the ring slips out on compressor while you are tapping it in, it could break the ring or damage the piston.
Use lots of oil during assembly.

Thought of something else, end gap placement of the rings is very important.
Place the gaps as per instructions.

Tip: (If using the band/rachet type compressor)
When you tighten up the compressor on the piston, keep all the layers
of the compressor square. Then just before tapping the piston into the block,
use a small pair of vice grips on the top of the compressor to trap all the
layers together.
Sometimes the inner layer will try to follow the piston down the bore. The
vice grips will stop this.

Best of luck.
Barry

Captain Morgan

Bence,
Can't wait till you get that done. Hope you get to take it to the Cruise-In. So many people with their projects that I would love to meet.

Magic Fingers

Powerhouse tools sells outstanding one piece ring compressors in specific sizes, or adjustible versions within specific bore diameters. We use both types with no chance of rings breaking.

Steve439

Bence -

A .016 gap is pretty small for a 4.3" bore.
I'd feel a lot safer myself with around .018.

Be interesting to see more some comment on this...

70PurpleLS7

Just where did you get the ring set??? Every ring set I sold had in order of packaging where the rings went on the piston - at least all seal power rings do... It will actually specify top groove, etc...

Make sure also - all your "dots" are up indicating you have the rings installed correctly. Also - "assumption" here - you didn't buy file fit rings? If you didn't the ring gaps should already be set - if the machine shop did their job.

If you "insist" on finding out exactly what your ring gap is... Take a roll of 1" or 2" masking tape, unwind it until it fits the bore of the cylinder. Then place the ring in the bore and use the tape to "true" the ring to the cylinder wall. Then you can measure your end gap.

The Dude

I tend to agree. But I would recommend contacting manufacturer and having a chat with the tech line. I think it would always be best in a case like this to default to manufacturers' recomendations and to adhere to them religiously.

To give an example, I used the published gap factors that came with my ring set to determine my gaps. (They are somewhat different than the ones published on the Speed-Pro site that's linked above.) On my 4.155" bores, the gaps worked out to be .020" on the seconds and .022" on the tops. (Based on my intended usage). The manufacturer specified a "minimum gap" of .015" for the oil rails. Since they all fit dead-on at .035" right out of the box I left them there.

These were JE Plasma Moly/ductile iron rings, BTW. They were packaged into three boxes--one box marked "Top," one box marked "Second" and, obviously, a box with the oil spacers and rails. Then those three boxes were packaged up together with a single part number.

And, yes, usually the moly-faced ring goes on top. And USUALLY the top ring is a little wider than the second ring, which has a more pronounced chamfer. (Note the disclaimer, "USUALLY" above.)

Good luck, bence. Take your time and make sure you have your gap specs figured and written down before you start filing things and installing. That's called peace of mind.



[Modified by The Dude, 11:32 AM 2/26/2002]